Duncan

Yeah same with the GTR but in practice that is pretty easy because the car is so high, and the stands only go from sill end to sill end so you don't need to wriggle far

yeah this video from about 6:10 shows the process, it is easy but not quick. I'll weigh the frames when I get a chance, they are not impossible, but not easy. I don't want to seem negative, I am happy to have it and use it often.....its just that it isn't a magical solution to making cars hover.

All up I'd guess it is 2-3x slower than jack+stands (when you already know where you are planning to place the stands) because the frames are heavy/hard to move and line up, and you still have to connect the hydraulic lines, start raising it, check adjustment etc. But in practice that is minor, we are talking 2min vs 5min, and being nice and high and very stable definitely makes jobs underneath easier

Here's Neil's car up on mine recently

Yeah I've got one of these, Quick Jack not Quick Lift, but your link looks like a good copy For me, it's better than no hoist, but it is definitely not as good as a hoist It lifts the car about 60cm which is a nice working height compared to regular stands and it is only under the sills so it doesn't get in the way like regular chassis stands do. No need to use regular stands, it has a safety lock on it. On the down side it is really heavy/unwieldy to drag into place, and you have to place it after the car is there (no option to drive the car to where the frames are. You need to try and line it up with the proper sill points which is hard as it swings up in an arc and there is surprisingly little adjustment in the distance between the rubber pads for different car lengths. Not a big deal, but in practice a jack + stands is probably quicker. Also there are hydraulic lines to each side and you need either a 240v or 12v source to power it depending on which option you have, I use 12v as I always seem to have a battery around.

Put v2 of the tune on it today, and ran the performance test with Launch Control on and Traction Control off. Went 5.67 0-100 and 14.05 for 400m which is a fair bit better I also put together a boost/turbo speed/AFR graph. Not sure what the blips in the curve are and the AFRs seem pretty lean on boost compared to what you would do with an RB, I'll talk to the tuner about it This is the temps and oil pressure, at 35o ambient temp for the run. Good to see charge air temp (post turbo) going down not up as speed increases.

Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block. If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years

To clarify what I posted above, I thought you both had a situation where it cancelled sooner one way than the other.....if it is reasonably even where it cancels in either direction that is probably normal (consider gentle movements like lane changes, you don't want it to need half a turn of lock to turn the indicators off)

There's no way they left the factory like that. In R chassis there is nothing stopping the steering wheel being put on one spline out from straight, and then adjusting the steering arms to "correct" it (sort of). As well as the indicator cancelling there would also be an issue with how tight you can turn in one direction to the other. The other (less likely) possibility is that the "clock spring" (the circular electronic part that allows the wheel to turn while still having an electrical connection for horn and any other buttons like cruise) might not be in place correctly. I don't have any pics of the R33 (or Stagea) setup but there would be a circular locating tab which sits in the steering column to have it straight...if that is not seated properly then the indicators may not cancel at the right point (and, you might also get a HICAS error since it would think you are driving in circles)

It will mostly be bad scoring on the bores, which you can almost certainly fix by machining for oversize pistons. I have to say, I am super surprised that any standard turbos made it 35 years down the track before exploding!

Nothing photo worthy since last update, lots of little plumbing bits for the AAC/Cold start valves, and unfortunately I still need another couple of parts for the brake booster line and the AAC into the plenum. Otherwise it all looks good to start up engine wise, onto checking the electrics/interior

Good news mate, plenty of spares available 5:40

Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare. Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+. Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.

Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney

I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"

I'd suggest having the engine builder listen to it, especially if they assembled it, and minimise how much you run it in the meantime. It may have a serious issue like a big end bearing from the description and I assume the rebuild was not cheap

Quite right, typing without checking, it is an 023 which was effectively the replacement for 040 (not that I could find either of them on the Bosch motorsport AU site), and it has a mesh inlet at the bottom of the pump rather than a separate filter

well mate, while I hear your pain, turns out I don't feel it this time! Must have been a bastard of a job crammed into the boot The tank was very empty (probably pumped out, not dropped and drained because there were some fumes still) and in very good condition internally. I'm sure he never ran e85 in it I don't know what the hell Nissan's fuel tank engineers were thinking about their clipping system, this hanger was really hard to get moving but came out in the end All looks very good (as I'm starting to hopefully expect) and Matty was right it is an 023 (044) bosch which should be plenty for the injectors and turbo

Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.

I should add....once you see the price you will want to go aftermarket splitfires, or even more extreme there are R35/Yaris/Audi etc kits available (require adapters, different looms etc)

You can check the correct part by putting your vin in at https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan, or post the vin here if you aren't clear on how that works

Hey Daniel, sorry to hear that and thanks for posting up for us at a really hard time I only knew SmoothLine through the forums, we never met as we are based in different states, but when he was most active on here he was quite a while back so not many of the current crowd might remember him. I am pretty sure he was active in the Queensland SQU club but that is defunct now too (times are changing and we are all getting older). Farewell SmoothLine!

My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e

re the security system, my Fuga/Q70 has the factory option where the puddle lights in the mirrors turn on when the prox key is detected, it was clearly dealer fitted and has a switch in the lower dash to disable it....it didn't have remote start but TBH I don't really miss that, I had it in the Stagea originally but never used it....we don't often have to warm the car up in the snow before we get in for Australia. And the Fuga also has the illuminated footwells, sounds like a useless feature but I actually quite like the indirect light within the car, it was a nice addition

Welcome Gabriel, and thanks for saving one of the less famous cousins!