Duncan

oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too

sorted

Good timing mate, welcome to God's country just in time for winter Seriously though....how cheap is rural/regional.

I haven't used the Crank Motorsport ones, but can I ask why not use standard gtr/gts4 axles at the front? They would easily cope with that power level. BTW.....sounds like quite the project!

I went with Racebox for my tuning because they have a good rep and many VR30 customers. Even though the car is mechanically standard they were excellent; 7 rounds of tuning including some specific things I asked for like throttle mapping with no issues. Alternatively, I bought the dongle and tuning licenses from Tunehouse (the Australian distributor) because I'd like local support for any problems and want to support local businesses where practical. I didn't go with the for the actual tune because they only do on dyno custom tuning (which is a pain for me for a standard car when I'm hours away). Note everyone I spoke to locks their tunes, so once you start with someone you have to restart from scratch if you are not happy with them in the future which was a big downer for Ecutek in my opinion.

I've only ever had intercooler piping custom made, there are lots of little differences between cars and hard piping is not very forgiving, even with silicone joiners for some flex

I believe the traffic updates are a separate, current (but probably not for long!) called TMC and was probably loaded into the Aus delivered cars back in the day https://www.liquisearch.com/traffic_message_channel/tmc_services_in_operation/australia Again, it is far less effective than Google tracking the location (and therefore speed) of every person in the country every second without most of us knowing, to determine where traffic is slowed....

sensible choice....and all 32s should be in yellow

It might have the right plug but not be real OBD, they used J-OBD and all sorts of other weird things over time. Just checking...they ignition was ON when you tried this, right?

From R32 GTR: Front: (not that I can actually see a "specified torque" there) Rear if that is an issue:

You already know the answer deep down...there is a reason everyone moved to sat nav from the user's device via AA or CP.... BTW this isn't just an Infiniti is dead issue, every car from everyone supplies maps that are up to date when you buy the car then requires you to buy updates if you don't want to keep driving in 2016.

fkin reckon, pretty sure it has head studs and a steel wheel in the turb I'll likely do a practice /shakedown day at Wakie before I call it ready to sell, then the new owner can have the first chance to put it in the trees properly

Been down in Tassie for 2 weeks (a cruise, not a race for once) but spent a little time on her when I got back. I worked out the injector settings in the PowerFC were not correct for nismo 555s, set those to 66% +10ms and added a little air at closed throttle, set the timing (approximately, because it has some weird non 15o cells around idle) and now she starts and idles properly. She purrs like a kitten (ignore the co2 alarm in the background, I did ) 20250518_171052.mp4 Next step, off for run-in, tuning and alignment!

Yeah either way you're going to want something with all wheel drive and a good heater to deal with those Antarctic roads

Welcome to SAU, and I doubt anyone has anything in stock in Aus (so, importing something from Japan will be the go, but pricey). Also the ADM and JDM cars have different front and rear bumpers so anything that fits locals won't fit imports

That part Rezz listed is in stock at a few places including Just Jap https://justjap.com/products/nismo-heritage-v-spec-ii-boot-lid-decal-84896-05u61-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr, around $170AUD. I'd probably be cutting one myself at that price. BTW OP is in Hong Kong, you really should add that to your profile so people understand constraints when they respond

For an rb26, yes it is 446-466 For rb25 there is a smaller bolt, it is 142-152 (from r33 manual):

*that* is a question for chatgpt (or someone that understands maths....but I'd try chatty). Drop them the table and ask for the formula

I'm pretty sure that is just straight AI generated word soup, where did you receive that ad (facebook)? They misspell Pirelli twice, no human eyes looked at that before it was posted. Incidentally, I am running the chinese pirellis on my V37 and they are.....OK....I didn't go looking for them, they were just what the shop had in stock in the tall size that car needs. LIke any brand, you really can't trust the brand's reputation to apply to every product they produce. Pirelli make good and crap tyres, all with the same logo stamped on them, and all with an attempt at price premium due to the brand

Now you should better understand the pain our NA brothers and sisters (and themsters) feel every day.

Yeah sorry I meant page EN-62 from the R32 GTR workshop manual, Point 6, which says this about the 2 washers on the tensioner If the crank trigger is welded to the crank timing belt gear, then yes the woodruff key will stop that spinning unless either the key or the crank are badly damaged (and in which case the timing would likely be off/moving anyway). Generally the timing gear slides off the crank OK, but they can be a nightmare on some cranks (generally due to rust etc). If it slides off easily, just consider yourself lucky. If it is really stuck, I've seen people resort to grinding/chiseling them off etc but it is a bad time by then because you are likely to damage the crank as well

Welcome to SAU Thomas, sounds like you'd had a bit of a an unlucky start with the car, hopefully you get some better luck now!

1. No need, it only gets used once then is locked in place by the nut 2. EN-62 point 6 shows the conical washer the other way around (BTW I know we discussed above, I hope you are changing the idler as well, while it is no guarantee the bearing is a actually bad, it looks terrible) 3. I'm not really clear on the question, are you worried because it was easy, not hard, to remove the custom timing trigger? As long as it doesn't spin on the crank (when the bolt is tight) all good 4. Yeah just make sure the brand is easy to read as it rolls past 5. The part number is on the listing under the description, 13023-42L00. Given there is a custom part on there for timing (presumably outside the cover), they may have decided to leave that off; I think I would put the washer in there as it also helps seal the timing case from crap getting in.

No need to replace the cover if it is still intact (not worn through). It would be worth checking the balancer for matching marks on the rear, but I'd assume the balancer was loose at some stage. The cam timing marks look fine, once you put the new belt on you can only be right or a full tooth out

Disconnecting rods! must have been an unpleasant surprise...