Duncan

Pretty sure it is a laser that cuts people in half if they walk in front of you. Handy feature.

Per forum rules, posts which do not relate to questions or clarifications on the item have been removed. Advertised price is the choice of the seller.

I'm not familiar with how those are set, but conceptually yes, if the low boost setting is stock then the car will be happy as long as it was never tuned for higher boost in the first place (ie, it is still an unmolested standard computer) Alternatively, you could keep running and enjoying the car at 12psi, it is not an automatic death sentence for the turbo, just riskier. If it goes there are reasonably cheap high flow bolt on turbos you could replace it with

I think the water is worthwhile. I've got 1000l cube catching some of the rainwater at my shed and use it a fair bit for washing/rinsing stuff and hand washing. No drain/waste of course, just runs to ground nearby

You won't be able to run a larger turbo on a stagea with a standard ECU. They are very sensitive to changes in airflow, even a mild boost increase on the standard turbo will throw it off. If you want to be able to return it to stock, best to plug in an ECU like a PowerFC and put the larger turbo on, reasonably easier to return to stock if you want to.

I'm just some random on the internet. Yes, if the bearings are damaged it will be cheaper to rebuild it before they spin; the longer a damaged motor runs the more likely other parts will be damaged. On the other hand, my bet is that if it ran for 10 minutes and isn't knocking already, it will be fine and the rebuild is not necessary.

If it is running and sounding normal, all you can do is drive it. Unless and until it starts knocking, you will recognise the quite different noise if it happens

Took the engine out yesterday, and since there have been a few discussions about it lately I thought I'd share how I did it. I'm no mechanic and had no hoist this time; no doubt others will do it faster or slower, this took me 5 hours. Probably would have gone a little quicker but I had a stripped nut on the LCA ball joint and the exhaust was damaged and jammed where the tree hit the quarter panel. Disconnect battery (thanks Ben!) Drain radiator, front diff, sump. I've got an old blanket that I chucked under them all because the coolant in particular never co-operates and who wants to lie around on old car fluids for the rest of the day? Back off alternator and power steering adjusters, take belts off Remove airbox, AFM, intake pipes including BOV return balance pipe. Hose pliers like these really help to not damage stubborn hoses (and hands) Remove radiator with shroud on, fan and fan belt out the top Remove blow off valve pressure feed, main earth, boost solenoid (boost solenoid goes out with the engine) Remove fuel lines and throttle cable. Block fuel lines with 8mm bolt and label them to save trouble on re-install! Remove brake and clutch vacuum booster line and any other vacuum lines eg boost controller or MAP sensor pressure Remove starter motor and alternator wiring Remove injector (etc) wiring on top of the engine and move out of way. These bent nose pliers are handy with both nissan breather spring clips and those nasty little spring clips on injectors Remove oil cooler lines. I have a connection where they run under the chassis rail from the engine adapter plate to the thermostat that makes this much easier. Removing lines from an adapter plate on the engine is somewhere between hard and impossible depending on space. Then on to the stuff where I wish I had a hoist.... Remove Zorst mid pipe and rear pipe. For me that includes the wide band 02 sensor in the front pipes Remove LH driveshaft (I did actually forget this step until I was trying to lift the engine....) Remove RH driveshaft. This can be a major pain but it went OK for me this time. I removed split pin, undid hub nut with rattle gun, removed washer. Then undid 19mm bolts holding lower control arm ball joint to the upright and removed the shock and sway bar (seems like a lot of undoing but it makes removing the hub end of the cv easier). Removed hub end of the cv. Then, using a large pry bar I pried the diff end out of the diff housing. After it had moved a little, I backed out one of the diff cover bolts so that I could keep prying (the lip on the cv is pretty small. Remove starter motor (14mm stubby ratchet, use a piece of rope looped around it to pull from below if it's too tight) Remove front drive shaft Jack under the gearbox cross member, remove cross member bolts and drop as low as possible without putting strain on the ATTESSA feed Undo 8 bolts holding engine to gearbox. With the rear of the gearbox low you can run a set of long extensions (1 use 4x 3/8) to get a 14 socket above the gearbox to the top bolts. All the rest are straightfoward. Undo engine mounts. Attach lifting crane, lift out of engine mounts, then pull forward until the (extended) sump is about to hit the sway bar, then up higher to clear the sway bar (by now the input shaft is out of the spigot bearing), then forward until the balancer just clears the radiator support, then up and out. While still on the hoist, remove clutch cover, clutch, flywheel and engine plate, then bolt onto engine stand and job done.

Yeah it is sure easier on the back with a hoist. I got my slab epoxy sealed (with a flake finish because it hides uneven-ness). I did cost a(nother) couple of thousand and they did a bit of grinding to get the surface right. We have the same issue with dirt tracking in, this is what it looks like with daily use on a rainy year. A broom every now and then and probably an annual pressure wash is all it needs but it looks good, keeps fluids spills up and is not slippery so I am very happy. No idea how long it will last, it has been down 18 months with no issues yet. The paint I had on my previous garage was lifting in some places where I'd had sticky tyres on hot days after about 5 years and I wasn't looking forward to redoing that. I've got unsealed concrete in the farm shed and that is impossible to deal with the oil leaks.

First, jack up your car.....

It really is hard to provide advice because it depends on how much you are trying to lower temps, and at this stage you don't know if you have a problem at all. I'd go without an oil cooler for now, but add a temp gauge. My guess is something that small won't make much difference so would only be useful if you have a minor temp issue

more seriously though, if anyone can explain to me why one of these cars is the ugliest car ever designed, and the other is a 6 figure uber desirable one, I'd love to hear it.

umm.....any concerns about the roof then?

Well in an even further apart comparison, there is an AU conversion available for Stageas too

That looks like a standard flywheel to me, and it looks like it's had a hard life. You could always weigh it to find out...

Yeah I find it interesting how different workshops work in different places, one of our Canadian guys mentioned some -35 days recently too. Generally here it won't get below -10 in winter or more than 45 is summer but it does vary depending on location. This has been a cooler summer but there was still a run of +30 days where I am last week which makes it damn hot to work inside a metal shed with limited airflow. I'm pretty sure Neil's setup started like most Australian work spaces, steel framed shed with thin external steel sheeting....thus the addition of the internal lining and insulation. The floor will still be cold to lie on in winter though because pretty much no-one has a heated floor.

The PFC uses the cat overtemp light to flash when it detects knock, so there is an issue with your tune in that area. Injector duty at 91% is not really a problem on it's own, in theory even up to 100% is OK but if it ever calculated that it need 101% or more it will be leaner than planned and engine damage is highly likely, so staying under 90% is safer. In this case it is more likely you had too much timing at that point in the map for your engine. Don't rely on 30 year old electronics to detect knock and help you tune. Your tuner needs proper knock detection and tracing of the map to work out where it occurs, to correct that part of the map.

Just a quick warning that if you are not going to run an upper timing cover (even just for initial start up), the CAS will sit a few mm too close to the timing gear and will foul. You need to add 5mm spacers on the mounting bolts.

looks good....who knew you'd move up to Tamworth to become a chippy!

Thanks mate...that's what I figured too, will give it a shot...

Well, that sounds more like a loose connection at the battery or the fuse box at the front. They can be a bastard to track down though. Is the engine bay wiring modified at all? Headlights and ECU power both run through the engine bay

lol fairy stories from the 80s back again! It is pretty simple to pressure test the cooling system to confirm there are no leaks.

Those dashes are a bastard to cut neatly around a cage, more so for the areas you have to cut to get the dash in and out. Can you do me a favour when you get a second, can you take a pic of the demister wiring where it attaches to the rear screen? I need to get mine working again but the wire has been removed right back at the glass. I've got a rear loom but it stops at a 2 pin connector which the workshop manual says goes to a "noise supressor", the some other connector, then the window. I'm assuming I can just apply 12v to either side of the screen but want to check first.

lol I've seen that table a million times but never read those lines....

Since the car will be at a panel shop for the repairs, I've decided to take the engine and and put the spare engine in. I've had the spare on a stand for a while and since I've got the haltech doing logging these days I can see the oil pressure isn't great in the current motor (runs between 50-60psi hot, running 20w50). So first, jack up your car.....the quickjack is a good thing but definitely no hoist, I really miss having a shed tall enough for one of those.... I actually started with the interior because I need to make some further wiring changes. No real mistakes, just things I didn't think about when I did the wiring the first time. So, after the required number of sacrifices to the cable tie gods in the hot shed.... ....the wiring is out from the cabin again. Took a few hours but much much quicker than when I pulled the factory stuff out