Duncan

Great idea, the roads down there are excellent fun with a mix of fast and tight, I really enjoyed the event we just did other than the crash good team running it too without most of the "stuff" that comes with the Targa run events and some of the competitors (for example, not a single porsche pushed past us while waiting for a stage!) The car isn't low at all, although I can see how it looks that way from some of the pics. It is a bit hard to check the rear atm with the damage, but I double checked the front today and it is 330mm left and 334mm right from centre of the wheel to guard (minor difference due to corner wieghting. Gary (Sydneykid) set up my suspension and ride heights many years ago and it handles beautiful and is quick considering it doesn't have a lot of power. Of course it is also quite soft to keep traction so under power like in the pics above it does squat over the rears.

Pretty sure that sort of advice started in the 60s when the falcon and kingswood boxes stopped at 4 gears, cars with a 5th had a physically smaller (weaker) gear to cram it in the available space. Nothing wrong with 5th (or any other gear) in a skyline box until you double or more the stock power

Some pretty harsh opinions of a gearbox that regularly takes double and often triple the power it was engineered for. 3.5k is a lot of money for a gearbox for a near stock engine and it's great to see cheaper options being looked into. Even the 350z box itself might be cheap but trans adapter etc mean total cost isn't.

Basically it does wonders for a gearbox which crunches going into gear due to worn synchros. Ironically, it's no good for synchros themselves and even says on the container not to use it in gearboxes with synchros. The 6 speed getrag in the gtr takes ATF not gear oil, but the r34 gtt box takes gear oil.

Well, if I was running an industrial business with workers who were my responsibility, eg in a city factory unit I would do everything I could to ensure everyone followed legislative safe practices, from both a worker safety point of view and potential liability if something went wrong. No one should go home injured (or not go home) because of a predictable and preventable risk. On the other hand, when doing things myself on the property pretty much everything is dangerous, so you need to keep your brain engaged and think things through. And like your compatriot AvE says, don't put your fingus where you wouldn't stick your dingus

yeah understood....the main thing I've learned since living rural is that using your brain is more important than following a listed safety standard, because every situation is different so you have to think each one through carefully. Plus, its a long way to hospital if you get it wrong...

some localised modification required....

I've tried all 3 ways (engine out leaving gearbox in, engine and gearbox out together and dropping whole subframe) to remove a gtr engine over the years. Dropping whole subframe might be easiest, but only if you have a hoist to lift the body back up, and keep in mind you need to remove the front brake lines (or possibly leave the calipers with the car), the other tricky bit is removing but more importantly lining up the steering column splines to reinstall. Without a hoist, engine and gearbox makes sense OK if you are doing something to the box too, weight is well within the rated limit of an engine crane (let alone whatever safety factor they have) but you need to be able to substantially tilt the motor as it comes out and goes back in so you really need one of those engine hoist tilters. I still find taking out just the engine and leaving the box in is the quickest, noting the race car has a few short cuts compared to most road cars to speed up the process, like having no AC and a somewhat clearanced firewall to let the engine tilt back further, less air/water lines to disconnect. There's also the option of removing the spot welds and bolting in the radiator upper support to make it quicker too

I'm pretty sure Nissan would rather sell you a new car than have a 7 year old car with updated sat nav maps. Even if they would sell you one you probably don't want to know what they would ask.... I'd suggest either using your phone or a dedicated sat nav unit, either will be more cheaper and updated regularly.

Only remove what you need to, to remove the cam covers and get at the bolts. everything else will be fine

Good choice to check the calibration, just tighten them to the correct torque

I'd suggest contacting Just Jap

Perhaps see if you can get a copy of the import approval from DOTARS for that VIN, it may have further information. De-registration or auction papers from Japan may also be available for HCR32-292195. But given the factory VIN stamp is not on the firewall HCR32-xxxxxx and there is no Japanese blue build plate, unfortunately it looks no good. You could also contact Lena Skyline / Lena Engineering / Nam T Le to see what records they have, but presumably the original import was correct and the tags were changed in Australia after compliance.

Ahh yes, not race car

Also worth checking that the fuel cap is working properly, particularly if the tank is pretty full and sitting in a hot storage unit it, the fuel cap should be venting excess pressure. If not pressure will build in the system, and it could do something like leak a little, or crack an old hose.

Re the 4wd, when the error light is on at the dash, there should also be an error light which flashes a number of times to indicate a code in the computer which is in the boot under the rear parcel shelf. So, next time the light is on head into the boot to check that and there is a good chance there will be enough information to at least start hunting down that problem...

In other series it means that the car was removed from the production line for another manufacturer to build like Autech etc. Not sure if that applies to your car. Generally in R32 the engine bay should be a duller version of the original exterior colour, so a red metallic car would have a dark red engine bay

Great to see! What are the main rules for the WRL series? Do you need to keep capacity at 2l for instance?

Since you wanted more power mostly for track use and the power is a pain on the street, adjustable boost level is a smart answer. Then, you aim for a wheel alignment that is a mid point between street and track use. This means a little camber (-1 to -0.5) and probably 0 toe at the rear, and at the front as much caster as you can get, a little toe out and medium camber (will depend on how much adjustment your bushes and arms have). You should also upgrade sway bars, and if your shocks are shot you could look at upgrading them to something street/track suitable. Yes a good diff will help a lot on the track but really not on the street.

Surely if you wanted 300+ in a rwd car it was because you *didn't* want rear traction? Unless the rear wheels are tramping when they spin, the shocks and springs won't make any difference to your straight line, in gear traction. Wheel alignment can, if you want to minimise wheelspin in a straight line you could go for as little camber as possible (will depend on your ride height and if you have any aftermarket arms or bushes), and 0 static toe. However, this would increase the likelihood of loosing traction at full throttle in corners - trade off.... What will make a difference is tyre quality and width but even then it is likely any tyres will spin in 1st and probably 2nd with that sort of power. Good semi slicks are noisey and tramline on the road but will give you maximum chance of traction (again, a trade off). You should be able to fit 10" wheel (285/295 tyres) with the right offset. You should probably just have a low/hi boost switch and leave it in low for normal driving, because everything I've suggested above will make your car harder to live with for 99.9% of day to day driving.

It's kind of a complex question. $5k is probably not unreasonable for the work and materials in a custom engine loom, but as said above there are other ways to achieve the same thing. 1.Cheapest way forward is to identify and fix anything that is damaged. 2.Prebuilt wiring looms as recommended above, or even a new genuine nissan one. Genuine for a 32 (looks like you have 33 GTR?) is about 1200 from amayama 3.Build a new loom from scratch It's probably frustrating to learn late in the build but the workshop may not have been able to identify electrical issues until the engine was in and running. Plus, a genuine 1000hp+ build is not cheap so leaving questionable wiring in place seems like a bad idea

well you probably already know, but the dash clock is on Nismo heritage. Came across it while looking for something else the other day

Proof I was having fun...up until the "incident"!

Hey mate it was good to catch up there, I had a good run (other than the power steering pump bearing failing) and hope you Vic invaders did too (in that small window when borders were open!) I know this thread is way out of date, but I had the car back and running in June and did a test day at Wakefield. Amazingly after having removed every bit of suspension and redoing all the wiring, it ran flawlessly except the power steering pump bearing which failed. After I killed a second one at Bathurst Neil pointed out it was most likely a simple dumb mistake, ie the belt was too tight both times. Sure enough I backed it off a fair bit and no problems since. At Bathurst I came 2nd in Category I (Log booked touring cars on treaded tyres) with a 2.27.8, beaten by Jason Wright in his very impressive R34 (which did a 2.23.7, way faster. Was great to stretch the car's legs around a big track and it was way more fun to drive it than it was in the dirty evo (top speed 257 was 8klm/h faster too). It was hot 32o ambient and the oil temps were pretty high (130+), and the brakes needed a cool down after 3 laps so if I want to do the 6hrs in the GTR it is going to need more cooling. I ended up skipping the last 2 sessions because I didn't want to break anything since Kel and I were entered in Great Tarmac Rally the weekend after so I came back, changed the PS pump over and ready to go again. I did trip both pumps down and cleaned and replaced all the seals, but the only issue seemed to be the shaft bearing was stuffed in each. We also had an awesome run down at the rally, top 5 outright pace and the car was running beautifully. Until I didn't process a call Kel gave me just before lunch day 2 and put the car off the edge and into a tree which was kind of unfortunate. The car seems mostly OK mechanically, engine still runs and it even drives straight (will get the alignment checked properly but there is no visual damage). Unfortunately the tree hit the rear quarter hard enough to shift the whole boot across so there is major work and possibly even a new rear half required to fix it so it will be a while before she's back again.

There is really no point buying new arms if you want to use bushes instead of rose joints, that's why there are very few available. You just put adjustable bushes into you factory arms (both ends if necessary) and you will have plenty of adjustment unless you are running poor geometry anyway (eg, way too low). Whiteline and other brands make adjustable bushes to suit.