Duncan

I guess they key point is, you don't want/need a diff that locks the wheels together under deceleration as that promotes understeer on turn in. If you are buying, preference should be 1 > 1.5 > 2. Having said that the GTR (non 33 vspec) factory diff is a mechanical 2 way and can be readily shimmed for the level of carpark clunking you want, That's all we use in the race car and it is a good thing, thanks Nissan.

Lock nuts are nothing but a pain, just piss them off.

Yes, a 1 or 1.5way for track use in a GTSt

lol should we just move this to DIY under "how to hotwire a stagea" Anyway, I don't have the wiring readily available. One wire will be from battery and will have constant 12v, most likely red From there, if you can turn the key in the barrel you could check which barrel output gets power on each key position, it should be AGN position - power at ACC IGN position - power at ACC and IGN START position - power at IGN and START If you can't turn the barrel (and no-one has the wiring), just use a jumper wire that can handle 20A (so not just little alligator clips) and connect the 12v battery wire you identified to each of the other 3. One should give you ACC (eg radio turns on), one should give you IGN (dash lights etc) and the other will either try and start the car (assuming in park if auto, or nothing at all because IGN (ECU etc) is not on). My semi educated guess is Yellow is ACC, White is IGN and blue is start.

I think the PowerFC is fine for 90% of use cases, they have been running these engines properly for decades. As Josh said, you need to consider whether you can find a tuner familiar with it as that makes a big difference to the cost of tuning. BTW if budget it an issue, keep in mind you will need a tune as well, cost 500-1000USD I guess

It doesn't look like a factory relay holder to me, they are generally green or blue or brown (to match the relay that plugs into them) Is there something not working?

lol some days eh? Anyway, yes OP you may well need a specialist insurer, and it may take more than website visits. I use Lumleys for mine and other options include shannons. Funnily enough Lumleys is owned by IAG (NRMA) so pretty big miss that their call centre sent you somewhere else.

No oiling required, just bang it in

The attessa system is the same across all the 4wd models in the series. so electronically controlled centre torque split from 0-50% FWD depending on throttle position, lat and long Gs. You can't safely pull the fuse for 2wd as there is always some preload on the transfer case in 33 series, you need to remove the front driveshaft if you need 2wd

Sorry CR calculation is not something I'm familiar with. I'd dummy assemble it with the 9.0 pistons and check how far they protrude from the block at TDC. I've done light head and block skims before with 1.2mm head gasket and not had issues but that is just one data point, not a rule.

Even with new crank, Nissan measured and put in different bearings, that's why they list STD 0, STD 1 and STD 2 part numbers. Since the block is used you should have it cleaned then measured for tunnel straightness, potentially even tunnel bored. Ideally you will then measure the clearance for each journal of the crank to the block and order the bearing to suit. Or just slap a set of STD 0 in there and hope for the best, at least you are only aiming for 800hp not a big build.

Can i just say, good timing on post this up...I need to replace those 2 top hoses and the cross check info was very timely :thumpsub:

Seem like you are pretty committed to the engine downgrade! Have you also considered a v6 from a camry?

Even under the old SEVS the cars to Feb 2009 were eligible because Nissan didn't import them new until then. http://rvcs-prodweb.dot.gov.au/sevs/477-01.htm

Patience! He said the same about the 86 for the first 17 pages...

Really interesting how different people feel the power steering impact. I haven't had speed input in my 32 GTR for years and am happy with the weight. Yes it is heavier than a modern car but not unmanageable. Sorry I can't help with the 33 GTR wiring, I've only ever seen manuals in japanese not english

I am not sure on the M35 but R series and C34 stagea are not rebuildable and I assume m35 are not as well. Best option is to cut the uni off the old one and get a suitably sized replacement welded on (then rebalance shaft) as any 2nd hand shaft you find will be 20 years old and rooted too.

I run them on the race car, but don't have anything back to back to show any difference. I have no reason to believe the "lightweight" does anything, but underdriving the alternator, water pump and power steering pump when using sustained high rpm in track use makes sense to me (you could also achieve this through a different balancer of course.) Note the Greddy oversize pullies (water pump in particular) requires the standard harmonic balancer to be turned down a little in a lathe to clear the pulley.

I know of multiple enkei RPF that have cracked. They are probably good for cast wheels but I believe a forged wheel is always going to be stronger. I've been running cast Wedsport SA90 for many years and never broken one, they are pretty thick and probably heavy Also, I decided to do some testing on the forged BC RT50 over the weekend, had a reasonably major crash that means we need to replace the rear half of the car and popped the tyre bead off the rim, but the wheels made it through fine... Sorry I don't have rim only weight, they all have tyres on them, but they are lighter in 18x10 than the 17x8 cast weds are

GTR offset, but not for a GTR, right? On a 32 GTR with standard (rolled rear) guards, I have BC Racing custom forged wheels in 18x10+22 offset rt50 design (similar to Rays TE37) fitting perfectly. I've not broken a wheel racing personally (not that I've never tried :)) but I value strong and preferably forged wheels for safety. Considering how much is spent on these cars for racing $1,200 per rim for a forged wheel that fits perfectly was good value to me.

what makes them good? good wipers are relevant to my interest

I went solar vents on mine, lots of hot days with no wind. Still too damn hot to work too hard today (shame I have to turn the car around after Bathurst yesterday to the rally next weekend...)

Agree. M35 is a much newer and more refined car. Suck if you decide to modify them though....

Shed looks awesome, will be nice to be inside instead of our in the sun over summer

Yeah I don't have a specific recommendation but it was pretty common to weld a reinforcement into the early model doors back in the day. I didn't realise it was still required.