Duncan

Given you have just changed the clutch there are multiple things that could have been done incorrectly....but most likely is you need to adjust the clutch pedal back down (did you adjust it up when the clutch was worn?) Could also be an issue with the fork not being installed correctly with the pivot, or the release bearing being the wrong height (did you change it?)

I think it is weird we have assumptions about some sales being fixed price (eg bottle of milk) and others requiring a negotiation (eg a car or a home loan). You can't bargain with web sites, fixed prices (which the seller succeeds or goes out of business with) are the future. Definitely doesn't need government to set specific rules for selling cars. The industry is on borrowed time anyway, we will all just rent auto driving cars for a trip in no more than 20 years so a car dealership is not a good long term investment.

Assuming you can prove you've owned it for 2 years overseas, you can bring it in as a personal import which is the least restrictive import scheme. It is probably still worth using an import broker who is familiar with the procedures

Yeah that level is way high. But that is a moot point since it looks like you need to replace those lines which means you will have to refill it anyway. Hard to be sure form the angle but I believe the leaks are from the 2 lines that go to/from the reservoir, you can see the other end of them in the boot pic. It is pretty tricky to get to them but I'd see if they are available from amayama or similar in factory parts and replace them. If not just measure the hard piping diameter and use some regular straight hose which should fit OK (there are no tight turns in those hoses). Nothing special, they don't carry pressure.

I believe they are the lines to the attessa pump so it is probably auto trans fluid (very thin/slippery). Is the level in your boot Reservoir low?

You can either source parts from a wreck, or if necessary have them made up. Making hard lines does require specialist tools and knowledge but not rocket science They shouldn't really be rusting unless you car has spent some time underwater at some stage, or on very salty roads. Do you have other rust underneath?

hmm that's almost exactly the same as mine on 98, 395akwkw. Hopefully I'll have more luck with the box. I guess it depends how much you need to run daily, for me a box that is easy to live with is a priority (ie, factory, or at least a helical/synchro box)

lol, not ideal as an improvement.....are you making enough power to make it worth upgrading the gearset? a stronger box can make it a pain if you drive it daily, unless you are sticking with a helical gearset.

I strongly doubt the oil is clean. if you drop it there will be sparkles of copper all through the bottom of the drain tray. I've very confident the bottom end needs a rebuild to replace the spun big end bearing, measure for any other damage (eg rod), cleaned thoroughly and reassembled

100% absolutely. stop running it and park it until you can fix it

Yeah, pretty much. If the issue is in 1 cylinder you'll only see it on one plug (one injector or one coil pack), but if it is general like fuel pressure, bad tune etc you will see it over all. Failed o2 sensor not necessarily so simple because they only normally are used at light/constant throttle

Well, I'd definitely talk to the retailer, they will have more experience. And of course there could be some issue with a batch but that is less likely. The big thing I found with those tyres is they work better with unusually high pressures, over 40 hot works best. If you are running well below that try higher. Given that is the outside letting go you probably don't have enough camber for your springs/rollbar setup at that track but that is hard to address on a road car. But likely it is mostly tyre temp, the front left works hard at wakie, so especially over longer sessions on a hot day and depending on how soft the compound is that is where I would start. Just get a infra-red pyrometer and check surface temp of that tyres straight after a session

You don't need to replace the stock BOV.

they just look like they got too hot (front left, correct?). I've done a gazillion wakie laps on v70 (they used to be our control tyres), nothing fundamentally wrong with them, actually they were pretty good for the price

you know, you should cosinder buying a r33 gtst. they could be fun on a race track! look nice in white

Well, 1. Advice on any web forum is worth what you pay for it. 2. NFI what your doubts might me from that post.

perfectly safe. Nothing can cause 2jz to fail

Sounds awesome man, enjoy. Hope the yanks don't invade until next year tho.

How good is it to have piece of rod on top of the cross member to put up on the wall of shame!

exactly, you literally just tap the correct wires at the dash because they all operate the way the dash requires, including the handbrake. (potentially excluding speed and fuel level sender as discussed above)

well, it did take 11 years and the retirement of the stagea from towing now I've go the Titan.... I dropped the stagea off at Unigroup a while back and asked them to freshen up the engine (400,000klm+ on the original head by now) and to put a bigger turbo and stuff on it. Told them I still didn't need it to make 400kw and they obliged. Pretty damn whooshy.

Will do, and thanks for using report; that lets any mod pick it up to action as we have time to do so. One challenge in this case...I can't edit posts since the forum upgrade either. But will fix these as soon as that problem is sorted.

Hi Daniel, can do, please just report each post you need edited to make sure we get them all.

sounds like turbo lag...

then, adjust away! you can see if the lines are bled properly (2 person) with one pressing the clutch and one watching the slave cylinder move. There should be less than 1cm free play on the clutch pedal before the slave starts moving. Also, while under there you can check the slave actuator rod is resting on the fork (no slack) without any pressure on the pedal