Duncan

It isn't really normal to have coilovers at the same seat height to achieve an even ride height, particularly if you are measuring height with a driver on board (as there generally is when the car is moving). After a corner weighting process where the ride height with driver is set reasonably even on the diagonals for best balance, the uncompressed spring ride heights are often very different.

Yes, it sounds like it is not disengaging fully, so bleeding the line is the place to start. It can be hard to bleed well, particularly if the long factory line (damper) is still in place. One way is to fill the master, add a small piece of hose to the slave bleed nipple and open the bleeder and let it gravity bleed for a while. And yes, if the take up point is quite high you can adjust it at the pedal by undoing the lock nut and turning the threaded rod at the pedal to lengthen it. Keep in mind that if this is the problem it means you clutch is almost certainly totally worn, and when you replace it (shortly) you will need to adjust the pedal back up again. There are a bunch of other reasons it might not release properly including release bearing carrier size issues, but air in the lines or worn clutch/pedal adjustment are the most likely if it has been working properly in the past.

It is not my area of expertise (either theoretically or practically), but I understand 300klmh+ will require 1000hp+

180mph = ~280kph, right? Most likely you won't have the power in 5th to get there, and on a runway you won't have enough distance from a standing start to get close to that. tyres would be the only thing I'd be even slightly concerned about, so use a quality tyre with appropriate load and speed ratings, and pressure. well, that and an accurate wheel alignment with a little toe in for stability. just an example, here our v8 supercar category run about 650hp, and over a 2klm downhill straight they are about 295km/h, and that is leaving a corner at about 100, not from a standing start.....

I like the sound of where you work! How did you bend valves, some sort of timing/timing belt issue? Other than getting too large (ie if it was already 87mm), I would definitely bore the block out and reuse the current sleeves. Of course the liners can be replaced but that is a lot of precision work when a bore would do the job (noting, depending on access to equipment that may not be too expensive for you). The bores (when measured/machined correctly) are not a problem point on RBs Re the head...normally you would get a fresh bare head because they aren't that expensive, even brand new, but again, if you have the tools and knowhow, welding and remachining may be an option.

Any hint of which car you are talking about? hiace van? hyundai i30? maserati quatroporte?

Thanks el-Pranko, the truncated emails are sorted

The other option for R32 with original dash is the electronic sender from r33/stagea etc should also fit. It may not be right for the original dash as they assume certain diff ratios, but you calibrate the haltech pulses as described above so that probably doesn't matter. Keep in mind you lose a lot of functionality without the stock dash. No oil pressure warning. No front torque gauge. No fuel warning light (yes you have a gauge but it's funny how easy that is to miss). No 4wd or ABs warning lights. No Odometer or trip meter. No brake warning light (handbrake/fluid level) etc etc etc

Noting the 2 posters above are talking R34 and R33, the R32 setup is quite different again. It uses a mechanical drive from the gearbox to the speedo in the dash, and then the speedo itself provides the ECU speed signal. So, unless the Haltech GPS module (not the racepack one grrr) is able to supply the required speed signal, the R32 dash pretty much needs to be kept if you want speedo signal to ECU and IC7. In the R32 wiring (which I believe is same as R33), the ECU speedo input is pin 53. Easiest place to pick up speedo and fuel level (and handbrake, indicators and high beam) in a 32 is at the dash. Calibration for R32 fuel gauge is:

And annoyingly, the IQ3 dash GPS is not available on the Haltech CAN, so you end up needing 2 GPS receivers

And while we are collecting little annoyances here.....the notification emails now only include the first 100ish characters instead of the whole message now, which makes it much harder to quickly monitor posts, since I have to login to the site to see any remainder of the post

Yeah apart from the quite different tone, rod big end bearings (most common failure) are noisier when cold (thicker oil, higher clearances) and noiser when you rev it (rod moves faster, failed bearing lets it move more), and the speed of the knock increases with revs too. It is quite a distinctive "gnomes with hammers inside your engine" noise

Don't often get to say this about an rb, but that is definitely not a spun bearing. It will be some thin gauge steel rattling against something else. Maybe a loose turbo heat shield, the air/water lines or some other random bracket not attached properly. Not a big deal but you should get it sorted so whatever isn't meant to be rattling doesn't break. BTW I'm sure you're concerned....but 2 hours in the middle of the night was pretty early to bump the question!

Stock 32GTR boost controller doesn't work with aftermarket ECUs, just went through this recently. You need to wire in a proper boost control solenoid

don't worry about wear on a track tyre, nothing will last compared to a street tyre. You are heading out in summer for 20min sessions so you need a medium/hard or hard compound. Do you have a second set of rims or are they going on your dailies? I'd go cheapest 245/45/17 in the following order - Hankook z221, Yoko A050, Dunlop DZ03G, Kumho V70a, Bridgestone Re11s, Toyo 888R. There's a bunch of other ones but I don't know them and haven't seen them used seriously And let me know when, I'm just up the road and can drop by with some kitty litter for the oil down.

Whether the interior loom is the same or not (probably is), that is unlikely to resolve the issue. Best suggestion might be to take it to an auto electrician and get them to sort it, but will cost somewhere between "a bit" and "heaps" because there will be lots of tracing involved. Alternatively if you have the time and patience to sort through it yourself, you need to get the R32 GTR workshop manual which includes the RB20 wiring diagrams and work through everything from the power supply circuits. The battery connection issue will have blown at least one fuse and sounds like it has also caused some issue with your key barrel or it's wiring (or possibly ECU fried, depending where you detected 6v)

Great to see you coming back to a proper car

couple of other options, rb25 stagea has an oil filter adapter that sits at a convenient angle, and has no oil cooler attached. also, rb30 had the oil filter direct to the block, so you could look for those fittings. Makes it a bit hard to get to the filter unless you do a relocation as well

I'd start by swapping the front and rear sensors to see if the problem moves with the sensor (so replace it), or if it is the same (ie, there is a wiring or actual problem)

The 350z ones are unlikely to fit. As well as diameter you need to consider offset of the disc (vertical distance from top of hat to rotor)

Pretty common for that end of the CV to be stuck. I assume the rest of the shaft was separated when the engine was removed? There is a circlip + 30 years of rust to keep it in place. On the car, the best you can do is get a pair of pry bars behind it. Off the car, you should be able to get at everything to disassemble the retainer plate.

what is your chassis number? ECR33-??????

I'll start by saying there are much cheaper ways to rally than buy and build your own car, especially if you aren't sure how committed you are to it or if budget is tight/not realistic. In order of cost 1. find a manufacturer or rich friend willing to give you a car. this is by far the cheapest way to do a rally, and some people do it this way 2. lease a car. something like the sirocco that chris gough leases is a safe/predictable way to see if you enjoy it and to learn the billion things that go into completing a tarmac rally without worrying about a car that might be tricky to drive (or expensive to replace) 3. buy someone else's proven, finished car that they don't have time/budget to race any more. generally because they now have kids. 4. build it yourself from scratch. this way you get to choose and keep the car but have to sort everything. Assuming you need to pay someone to do it (labour is probably 1/2 - 2/3 the cost), basic setup on something like a GTR or Evo 9 would be: Base car $x Prep car $54k Safety gear - Rollcage, seats, harnesses, kill switch, other general stuff like triangles, first aid, kitty litter etc) $10k Intercom, video cam, rallysafe $2k 2x sets of gear for driver and Nav $5k (+ licenses and OLT $1k for first time) Suspension $5k 18x10 forged wheels $5k (6x) Brakes (calipers, discs, lines, pads, fluid) $5k Engine / turbo rebuild (good idea for prep) $10k ECU $2k + wiring eg oil temp, dash? Other likely prep - clutch, oil coolers, radiator, hoses, potentially gearbox, 2x diffs, transfer case, all bushes, exhaust to meet regs $10k Consumables/ event costs $20k+ Tyres 6x ($3.5k) Fuel (1.5x tanks per day rally car + 1 tank per day crew) = $1.5k Accommodation & food (driver, nav, 1 crew/2 works better) $500pd x 8d (+before and after) = $4k Spirit return trip 2 vehicles 2 people $1.5k Event Photos/videos etc $1k Entry $8k Pace notes $0.5k Damage/repairs - somewhat in the crew's control.... $x + refresh after the event (fluids, brakes, anything else worn like clutch, engine/gearboxes/diffs/driveshafts/bearings/bushes) and you are ready to go again Yes, people do it cheaper, but others also do it way more expensive....BTW it was on my bucket list for a long time (along with racing at Bathurst) and I'm lucky enough to have done it 3 times now, even finished once (Kel is up to her 15th of course, Navigators, especially good ones, have it much cheaper). No regrets doing it but it costs a bomb.

Good luck Justin from Texas. I imported a Titan and had to teach myself how to work on USDM cars. I have to say, apart from towing, I prefer JDM

Thanks, that's much better than the Impul kitted one I was happy to not win. I'm sure it cost a bomb but not my style (plus the front bar fit was terrible for such a nice car and kit) I was more interested in whether that HKS 350z supercharger kit would fit though. Or maybe the stillen one would work better.