Duncan

well, I have done targa in both. My race/rally car is r32 gtr and I've race and rallied a leased evo 9 (targa tas and bathurst) Have you done any tarmac rallying before, do you think you'll do it more than once, and are you looking to lease or buy? If buy, keep in mind current purchase cost for a GTR is 50k+ and probably same again to prep for the first time and do the event. Evo probably half the price. BTW spoiler, the GTR is miles ahead more fun. The evo might be quicker, certainly easier to drive quick

/shakes fist damn you Adam lz

Almost certainly either the plug at the steering wheel is unplugged or the wiring to/from it is damaged. Basically, the airbag controller decides everything is OK by checking the resistance of each airbag. If the answer isn't in the range the computer expects it will flash the warning light.

bolted to the airbox exit if you mean as standard

Are you putting a 2jz in a 350z for a cheap project? 4th time this week, thanks skid factory.

3rd time this week. I blame the skid factory.

What do you mean by low mileage? Has it been rebuilt, or does the odometer not show many klm (ie likely wound back)? By this age, it would be common to have worn valve stem seals. They tend to be noticeable when first driving after the car has been sitting a while (as oil from head gets past seal into cylinder while stationary). A compression test is the starting point to work out if you have an engine sealing problem. If there is, a leak down test can help tell you where the issue is. Turbo seals are generally not "a whiff", more like a wacky racers smoke screen

I use amayama since they sell parts too https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h I do have fast installed and use it when I'm looking up a few things or checking things out, but with the way it works you need the "CDs" of the models you are interested in. If that is always the same car, no problems but it is a hassle if you are looking at a range of model years

lol should have mentioned that was a required step glad it is sorted. check the thread on the end and remove any damaged thread if you need to (unless you happen to have 28mm die ow whatever size it is....)

Oh, and the bearing will be fine. It is designed to hold more than 1 tonne @ 1G side force over and over again. If you can hit it that hard you are a pretty big gorilla.

I've previously had the remove (grind off) the threads at the end of a driveshaft as they were damaged in an "incident". No issue as long as the nut has full thread when it is tightened down, the threads at the end of the shaft are only really relevant in a situation like this where you want the nut to take the force of un-siezing. But like GTS-Boy said, if you use a drift (36mm impact socket) you will hammer on the nut not the shaft

Put the nut back on to protect the end of the shaft and beat the crap out of it.

Perhaps, but everyone who bought one is still trying to get home from the dealer because they are so slow.

Didn't we just do a version of this thread over there? xJZ is not a great swap for a nissan chassis, everything is on the wrong side. Of course it can be done (anything can be with enough time and money), but unless you are doing it for your youtube subscriber numbers, don't do unnatural things with a nissan!

Yeah looks good, but now the long wait until I actually find out if it's OK

The thing is, it might be cheap for that motor but it's not a good deal. Even if you genuinely have the kind of mates who are totally reliable, will work for free at your timing and have the tools and skills to do your fab and wiring, even the raw materials to do that swap will cost another couple of thousand. Not to mention if you succeed in all that you will have a low compression turbo motor that makes terrible power. Most likely it will be 40% complete at the back of the garage when you get off your ps. RB25DE is a good choice, easiest to fit, cheap to but and easy to turbo later on. RB30DE even easier but they might be getting rare since everyone wants the blocks

Not sure how far out you are willing to consider, but there is another Japanese manufacturer that makes straight 6 engines that it is worth considering rather than Toyota or Ford. A bunch called Nissan have made a range of motors that would be easier to fit in your Skyline as they bolt in, intake and exhaust on the correct side for the chassis and even the wiring is 80-100% plug in. Suggest you look into those.

Yeah I've used Amayama a lot and found them to be good (nothing orders sometimes get cancelled after they check with Nissan). International deliveries are a disaster at the moment but Fast Track are local and if they have the package there should be a tracking number available.

That is not right somehow, and shimming it won't fix it.

to be honest, I think you are best getting someone to do the install for you. The process is reasonably straightforward but I guess you aren't confident to do it so best get some help rather than get it wrong and blow your motor up The connection from the PFC to the solenoid is 2 wires, but it is not plug an play. Any auto electrical person should be able to look after that part. You also need a pre throttle boost source for the map sensor, which needs 3 wires back to the ECU too.

I guess we are probably getting to the real question now. PFC does not do boost control directly. You need to buy the boost control adapter, and a solenoid, and wire the 2 together anyway.

lol good point. imagine having multiple looms in a car

He did say it has a 32 GTR loom in it...

Well, only to say that aint it. The standard wiring is 2 wires to a plug plug with the terminals in a t shape.

well, hope they are OK, picked up one at auction today for 1.5M yen second nissan I've had now inspired by Camry's designers, check out my C34 Stagea