Duncan

VCT gives you extra whoosh in the midrange by adjusting the cam. It can't make your run poorly but it is worth sorting out a fix so it gives you the available whoosh.

squinting harder.....

there's 2 plugs in that pic, and neither are broken. that is one hard internet test

don't worry about it mate. if that is the issue you won't make it worse warming it up. back to an earlier question what did you mean when you said the turbos were "blown". potentially an overboost issue could end up with ring land problems on the rear 3 cylinders too, but either way it is the same solution (pull engine and tear it down)

Agreed, but the concern is all 3 rear cylinders are well down which matches an issue with the rear turbo affecting cylinders 4-6

Sorry but it doesn't look good. When the exhaust wheel lets got at 150,000rpm, ceramic pieces have enough velocity to travel against the exhaust gas, through the open exhaust valve, and scratch the shit out of the cylinder bores. Happened to me when I first got my car, and I guess it has just happened to you. A borescope could be used through the spark plug hole to inspect the bore for scratches. If that has occurred, you need engine out bottom end rebuild, with bored out cylinders and oversize pistons. Expensive, but not compared to GTR prices these days....

It's well off topic, but on track insurance is available, the cost just reflects the risk. A condition of the Evo I leased for the Bathurst 6 hour a few years back was write off insurance, and it cost about 25% of the car's value for the weekend.

Lumley. And no, its not covered while racing, but is covered for fire, theft, accidental damage, on trailer, driving between stages etc etc etc

Funny you should say that. We were literally today increasing the agreed value for the race car 3x because I can't imagine how I would reshell and fit out a R32 GTR for $25k these days... Might just cut the cage out and buy some carpet....watch out carsales! Low KLM....

PAR are still around although with a reduced line these days. Try contacting Haysam through the PAR website, others on here may have direct contact details too

That I don't know. I run a separate sender for safety since the stock dash one is about 30 years old.....of course that requires the sender, some sort of t piece and wiring the sender to the ECU which is a bigger job.

Yes exactly. Any of those illumination lights under the dash are suitable, and tapping into the dash looms i easiest because you can indicators and handbrake there too.

Thanks for passing on your good habits there Neil. Still have too many partially finished job but at least the tools are put back clean

Considering the length of the installation write up, you'd think they would include a wiring diagram, especially when it is so intrusive. One option would be to ask them for a diagram instead of just description (some saying about pictures being worth a thousand words....) My understanding is the 12v to the pump needs a 30A power supply, through a relay triggered by IGN and the pressure switch. Of the 2 wires into the pressure switch, one should have continuity to earth (leave this), the other will trigger the relay) Wiring to the relay (my understanding, I've never done this and the instructions aren't great....) 85 - connect to the pressure switch wire which does not have continuity to earth. I believe that is terminal 4 on the diagram but check 86 - 12v from IGN position of key. You can take this from any source that has 12v only when the key in at IGN. 30 - 12v, 30A fused power feed (from battery or other known high amp source) 87 - 12v to the pump. The other wire on the pump can go straight to a good earth. Also, there is more information on the stock system and wiring pC-57 onwards in the 32 GTR manual. Having said all that, in the case of a basic road car install, in recommended order: 1. Get an auto electrician to do this, expect it to take probably a day 2. Connect it to the existing wiring and relays, which is why they provided the ATTESSA computer pin outs. Everything you need is already there assuming it was working OK 3. Wire from scratch as you seem to be doing is the hardest if you are not familiar with auto electrica

I bet the injectors are blocked. Can you remove them and get them cleaned?

There may well be other integrations beside the security that will throw errors, eg BCM, IPDM and TCM. Won't it be less painful to go after market engine management?

Can you post up the instructions? "Low side" would mean the side of the relay that doesn't have 12v; in nissans of this age generally the earth is switched, not the 12v side. Nissan Factory relays are generally 4 wire and don't follow the usual naming standard of 30 and 87 being switched, and 85 and 86 being the trigger side but the same concept applies (and it will be shown on top of the relay). 2 of the terminals are the main 12v feed from the battery and to the device. The other 2 terminals (shown with a coil between them) join the first pair of wires when 12v is on one terminal and earth on the other. To turn the device on there is usually constant 12v (or it comes on with key on ACC, or IGN), and then the other terminal is set to earth by a control unit when the device should be turned on. So, have a look at the relay to work out which pin is which, the remove it from it's holder and use a multimeter to see which trigger terminal has 12v (constant, ACC or IGN). The other trigger terminal is the "low side" of the relay.

Under 18s I'd be running the 256 because the price difference over 330 is negligible, and I'd use the 6 piston over 8 because the 8 piston have the same total piston volume but 6/8ths less things to wear or get stuck.....the caliper these were copied from (AP) was a 6 piston

lol I feel like I should be on commission, but yes ATTKD kit is the way to go. All brand new bits, well proven for street and track use, and right price

The Tesla should to well although range towing probably takes a big hit. What did they rate it to? Nissan refused to rate the leaf for towing so not legal in NSW...

lol didn't see that twist coming.

Still Titan-ing, 3 years later

It just reduces the chance of rattling springs. Race only stuff generally just uses a flat spring with flat spring mount, even then, they aren't generally noisy unless the spring is not captive through full travel

Yes, the washers go back in.

Other than looks or very serious track use, I'm not sure why you would need anything other than upgraded pads and rotors. But if you are determined to upgrade the ATTKD stuff is by far the best bang for buck - $2k for brand new calipers, pads, rotors, lines and the required adapters https://justjap.com/catalog/product/view/id/20577/s/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r33-93-98/ There was a recent discussion and some people have gone the alpha omega Evo 10 kit for skylines which is also a good option but doesn't compare price wise unless you have access to good condition evo 10 calipers