Duncan

Sounds like the ej-1 is long gone then. Weird they didn't take the harness so maybe it was dead rather than resold. It is 30 year old aftermarket electronics after all. Yes they are pretty rare, and in working condition and with the US market influence on skyline prices it is probably worth a gazillion dollars in working condition (I mean, if a second had steering wheel is worth $1k, for instance....). They were made for R33 skyline and W34 stagea only to my knowledge. You can use it with any device that creates a video signal, from memory it is NTSC not PAL but that means there are plenty of choice. In my stagea I ran the ej-1 to a TV tuner which could switch the output between TV and the ej-1 screen, and then outputted both to the dash and the stereo head unit, but if I was setting it up today I'd be looking for a bluetooth phone mirroring to show consult or GPS data.

Yeah unfortunately the ej-1 is an aftermarket install so it is hard to say where it would be; mine is under the passenger seat. There is heaps of space under the main dash, they are not a large unit (say 300x150x10 ish) I would pull the dash cluster out as next step to see what is connected, and if it fires up OK with a known good video source.

Boot is a weird place to put it since it is a long way from everything it feeds but who knows. If you can find the video feed in the boot you can supply it to the dash to check. Otherwise pull the dash out and supply a video feed directly to make sure it works. These days some sort of phone mirroring bluetooth thingy would be the most obvious thing to supply to the LCD

Hi mate, good score. You don't really need an epsom ej-1 to drive the dash, although that was the most common way back in the day. The rear of the dash just has 12v+, 12v- and a standard yellow video in. Easy enough to test with the dash out if you can provide it 12v and a standard video feed. My guess is the LCD is dying/dead. I have/had this setup in my stagea and the screen died, and I have not been able to replace the screen itself. There is a part number on it but that was long out of production, I did have a guru looking into mounting something with the same size an resolution into the dash but no luck yet. If you have an ej-1 (ie, just screen is dead) it will be wired in to the ECU with about 10 wires, and it does have a remote control so you may find a remote control receiver somewhere or the remote itself.

Yeah the timing looks right for 15o, and the fact that it idles better with the wrong timing points to that being an issue; either Link is not set to expect 15o base, or the timing belt is a tooth off.

OK a few things. 1. You need to check and set the timing. It's been a long day so just let me suggest you search in our DIY section for a thread on it. You may need to check the Link ECU to make sure but I believe an RB25 should expect 15o BTDC. There is a loop for checking timing at the rear of the engine but even better if your timing light can get a signal from the coil pack loom at cylinder 1. 2. If you have both an AAC valve and a bypass screw on the throttle body, you should be setting the idle with the AAC. So back the throttle body screw right back so it is not holding the throttle blade open, then turn the screw anti clockwise to let more air through the AAC. 3. You mentioned you may have damaged the throttle installing the engine. Take the intake off the front of the throttle and turn the butterfly full open to closed a few times and make sure it is opening and closing smoothly, but this is unlikely to be an issue (if it was jamming it would probably jam partly open leading to more air, not less) 4. Link should be running and air intake sensor as it is MAP sensor based not AFM but that is unlikely to be the issue here unless the weather is totally different to when it was originally tuned. Also it is possible the TPS is not set properly so you should check the TPS voltage with the throttle closed.

Brand new engine could have a lot of air past the rings and out the cam covers. Not a particularly great breather setup as shown, at a minimum hook them both to a catch can filled with steel wool then vent to atm from there if you want atmo venting. If you are certain it is not an intake leak after the AFMs, most likely the timing is incorrect or the timing belt is a tooth out. You need to set the timing immediately after startup on a new engine. I can see you have FFP, how is the idle air controlled? Is there a cold air bypass of the throttle? BTW, if you had location in your profile it would have been easier to guess you were talking imperial not metric....

Well, japanese mechanics evidently have smaller hands than english mechanics for a start... A high mount turbo install is probably more complex than any task on a cortina, difficulty to do it yourself will depend on your comfort with fabrication. Assuming you are buying a manifold rather than making it, the manifold and turbo are probably bolt on (as long as they are designed for each other). The water feed and and return and oil feed and return will probably be custom lines and they should be braided and heat shielded, so that can be DIY as well depending on your comfort making lines. The intake piping and dump pipe to exhaust is probably the hard bit to do yourself as it will involve custom piping in different sizes that need welding, beads to hold silicone on etc. And you will likely need new ECU (plug in depending on what you choose), injectors (drop in, assuming correct model), fuel pump (generally minor work to mount in stock cradle), AFM (bolt on). Not impossible but a pretty big undertaking

Indeed....but a relay for what!?! It's not factory so you would need to trace the wires.

Yeah I totally agree, shame they are us market only. I've got the VK56DE in the Titan and it goes and sounds great

jeebus you have been busy, I thought you were bludging up there! good use of space....

Pretty sure it has had an LS swap like every second modified car in Oz.

oooo, bad choice. Check the big / main fuses under the bonnet and in the boot next to the battery, you might be lucky.

well, 3mm would do it....try swapping the fronts for rears.

It's worth about $40k if you can get it to the US....

Yeah there was a long thread on here for them. The company disappeared with peoples' money

I agree, it sounds like a nasty wiring issue. Potentially you drove over something while reversing and damaged the wiring so I'd start by looking at wiring under the car rather than inside

looks like the correct side to me, and good score on the light up rear panel. But you really need some wider wheels on it

Cool, thanks for the feedback. I never converted the Cima display from japanese, it was easy enough to remember the only 2 things I ever use (long term fuel economy and daylight savings clock adjustment)....will see if the Fuga annoys me enough to get a conversion. Spec I want (light colour, sunroof) isn't coming up every day so it may take a while before I get it sorted

Well R33 GTST was 184kw stock at the flywheel, so more like 140 at the wheels. Which is why the whole "400 is the new 200" thing makes me laugh.

Easiest place to get one would be beside the autobahn probably....the front inner guard liners are also poorly attached for high speed so watch out for a massive noise followed by no braking on one side after the guard liner slides under the whell.... Re the ECU Boost cut, even before you hit that you will be in parts of the stock may with retarded timing and rich AFRs, designed by the factory to protect when you are outside "normal" parameters as you are at 14psi Just do the Nistune first and fix those areas of the map, someone else can confirm but I expect it can remove the boost cut too. No need to add a checkvalve.

Good to hear an NX got saved too, not many of those ever got sold here in Oz. Do you have a leaf with a blue front badge as well or is that pic just random?

Welcome Where abouts in the middle of nowhere?....hopefully the skyline is good for wombat dodging....

Firstly, let me say, I've got no idea and never done this. If the subframe is out of the car, then the hydraulic system is disconnected and therefore the only potential pressure in the system is inside the accumulator/nitrogen cannister that you are trying to replace. That cannister surely is sealed (or that seal has failed in some way which is why you are looking to replace it) so it is just a case of unscrewing the cannister. Unfortunately the workshop manual says the attessa unit "cannot be disassembled" even though nissan sells the cannister as a part.

Umm, so on a standard gtr at least, removing the BOV vacuum line does prevent it making boost, a BOV wouldn't be much use if it couldn't bleed off all the boost a turbo makes. Also in the standard system it recirculates after the AFMs so it all works fine. This is how they used to limit boost in production car racing (pop off valve in the line between the manifold and the BOV which is triggered over a certain level, removes boost signal from BOV, BOV opens, fun over but car keeps driving fine just without any whoosh until the BOV reference sees pressure again). on the other hand, I am not certain that disconnecting a wastegate actuator will prevent any boost being built either, it depends if sufficient gas can make it through the much smaller wastegate to prevent the turbine spinning. clearly extensive testing is needed to determine best solution to OP's question.