Duncan

ultimately, if you are enjoying it as it is go for it. But I am telling you there are at least 5 seconds more in that car and it is clear from the vid that either the tyres don't have the grip of a good track tyre, or you don't have confidence they have grip. This is an old vid (2014) but it is 1.06.9 in my gtr that has less power (250kw) and very laggy with early 90s bush bearing turbos which is not gerat for a tight track like wakie. Tyres were 235/45/17 Hankook z221, so smaller than what you were running. You'll see they key difference is braking later, faster mid corner and accelerating sooner which all comes down to capability of the tyres. I'm sure you'll enjoy tracking the car more with proper tyres under it, and neither AR1 not NT01 are good track tyres. Hankook Z221 are my preference for performance at a better price, but yoko a050 and dunlop DZ03 are better if you quickest tyres. If you don't have dedicated track rims pick up a cheap set and just swap when you get there. Smallest diameter that will fit over your brakes (eg 17s) keeps the tyre cost down

As well as aussie sites (the 4 stud non turbo rotors aren't that common) you should consider straight from japan. Try someone like Jesse Streeter. Big problem no matter where they come from is air freight is mega expensive right now because there are no planes to put them on, if you are in hurry to get them it will hurt. A faster alternative is to find something larger local where the offset between the hat and the rotor is the same. A machine shop can reduce the diameter in a lathe and then drill out the hole for the stud pattern you need. Unfortunately they guys I usually use to check rotor spec dba.com.au, don't have a listing for a 280mm rotor for an r33 gts sedan.

you can bet the japanese have been laughing at Australian asking prices for their old cars for about 30 years. Getting cars registered in the US sounds even harder than here. These cars are worth what people are willing to pay and you can bet Anonymous will have the only one on the street....much better to see than all the ones out here that were getting crashed into poles and sent to sims metal by skid kids. I agree exactly with this. And as long as there is no sign of oil leaks where it is parked, it runs OK and no big clunks on the test drive, drive it home and enjoy it. BTW, what is an "air fare". Is flying a pre-apocalypse thing?

looks like fun, but shit mate, you can't spend that much on a car and not put track tyres on it. put something decent on and give it another go, you had barely any time at full throttle

Are you after the socket you pictured or the plug with loom that plugs into it. And where are you located (no location in profile...) I probably have a plug I don't need, but I would have binned the unit with socket. On the bright side there should be plenty of them that people have removed when they direct wired their pumps

That's not ideal. Time to drive around with your phone GPS speed or something because that is box out and disassmble to fix....

Most likely a power steering leak (is it power steering fluid, or oil they feel quite different) Clean it all with degreaser and water and then check again in a couple of days to see where it is coming from.

See that's the thing to me.....ATTKD R34 355mm 6 spot kit is $2150 and comes with new calipers, 2 piece rotors, pads, brakes lines vs Alpha Omega 355 Evo : $1924 for used calipers and no pads, or approx $3610 for rebuilt/coated caliper , 2 piece disc and $400 pads caliper adapters $400 brake lines $145 1 piece rotors $499 (or like for like, 2 piece $1,300) used evo calipers ($880, potentially +$145 for seals, +$300 for rebuild service + $390 powder coat) Doesn't add up to me. At best you save $200 and have lucky dip of 2nd hand caliper quality and no pads. BTW I run 324 rotors and 4 spot calipers on my r32 GTR race car and they don't fade including endurance racing and long tarmac rally stages. Bigger rotors like 355 aren't necessary unless you have big to huge power (400+) and do heavy track work. Of course, 355 looks better under 18s if that is your goal.

If the D2 brakes are above your budget, you should instead keep standard calipers and standard size rotors. Start by changing to more aggressive pads and better fluid, and if budget stretches that far you could consider uprated rotors as well. Post r34 stuff (350/370z, V35/V36 etc) has a different offset to R32-34 which means you need to change the disc as well as caliper. Unless you have a very cheap second hand source it won't be cheaper than D2, and remember they come with brand new discs, pads and braided brake lines too....

Pretty sure there is no "legal" for tyre width vs rim width; however, manufacturers do have approved rim width for combinations of tyre width/sidewall height - and I would expect a tyre shop would not take on the potential liability of fitting a tyre that the manufacturer does not recommend. For example Yoko AD08R in 255/35/18 are approved for 8.5-10" rim https://www.gordonleven.com.au/_file/63cb0ad3-540b-7e9f-abd2-5e290241619f?inline=true

Anyway....if converted to 2wd some how the issue is likely the bearings in the front hubs are not retained properly without a driveshaft and driveshaft nut, the 2wd front uprights are different.

And for that matter, I don't even know how capacity is actually checked. I think it is just written on the form by the applicant.

And weight is checked by a ticket from a certified weighbridge, however full you drive the car onto it.

If the vibration is related to road speed, not revs, it is not engine, flywheel or clutch; it must be in or after gearbox. Howling noise occurring over 250km/h is most likely a cop siren and is indeed a sign you should slow down

And what sort of 34 did you buy?

The first. The second picture should be removed from the annals of history. You can and should apply some light grease to the inner surface of the seal that runs on the cam; factory ones come with it. Silicone should not be required on the outside of the cam seal but I have heard of it being done.

Sorry diesel patrols aren't meant to perform. They are meant to run for a million klm without an oil change. If you want it to go faster than the chassis can handle.....LS swap

Not my experience stock for stock. GTR shipped with 2 tiny turbos but 12psi boost. The apparent difference in response is due to lower gearing and 50% higher boost stock in the evo. GTR was build to be modified for group A with mid 80s tech, while the Evo is better balanced stock

Good to hear you are happy, but there is a difference between fixing and masking a problem.....best to still allow for the box to be rebuilt or replaced one day

fking A. they are awesome. Not the fastest, most comfortable, most convenient or cheapest. But I love giving the thing a good trashing, it's way more fun than a dirty evo

well, to be fair, my back to back experience is as race cars not dailys....but.... Evo -less care if you scratch it/ someone runs into you -4 doors, higher seating / more practical GTR -do you trust it not to walk from a carpark these days (no immobiliser unless you've added one, much more tempting to people) -generally poorer on fuel, more expensive to maintain (parts etc) -larger/lower car is less practical in traffic

Continent? Country? State? City? Filling in your location profile can help.

The GTR is so much nicer to have, but for a daily you'd pick the newer shopping trolley....

Capacity and weight would only be checked in NSW if a blue slip was required.

Cool - let us know if it is on. And yes, of course the people want shed pics