Duncan

Cool - let us know if it is on. And yes, of course the people want shed pics

Ha! hope he picks up good habits easier than I did I did make a bit more progress on the all important stickering, although connecting the 90s tech sticker cutter to win10 was a total fail. I'll have to get the local sign guys who did the rest of the car to sort the remaining ones. Also had the nav seat back out to reset the backrest angle forward because it wasn't comfortable on the test day. It currently has Bride rails and side mount brackets and the combination wwth R32 floor is crap (high, forward, tilted too far back)...will need to get some custom / flatter mounts made up.

funny how you forgot to mention the rb30 swap! And, if we aren't going to get any car pics, at least you should post up some shed pics Kel mentioned Tamworth round is confirmed cancelled as well? Looks like I'll need to do club rounds at huntley or sdma

yeahbut. and rb25 with no boost will make about 100rwkw not 205.

yeah it seems cutting wood comes first. still only 2 here this morning after -4 overnight so it is hard to get enthusiasm to lie on the concrete. And it's definitely no complaint since a lot of people are in tough situations, but my work has got busier, not quieter lately. I did pick up the second set of 18x10 +22 forged BC wheels from just jap yesterday, excellent price for custom size forged wheels as long as you can wait for sea freight at about $4.5k (compared to new Rays etc which are set sizes). I've now got 8 so I can run same sized spares in rallies. I guess Targa Barrier Reef in early September is our next big event if you banana benders agree to rejoin Australia before then. Also confirmed that the BC strut top rubber bushes are a perfect match for the ISC strut tops that I had in the car (the ISC guys didn't bother responding to q about parts so fortunate the JJ ones fit). I'll post up pics when I have them but the bushes were destroyed, lasted about 2 years Annoyingly, the heated windscreen is no longer working correctly, I guess the wiring was damaged during the respray. I've spoken to Del, looks like he can still supply them; I've had that one in the car for 8 years now so I guess I can't complain.

Yeah I also think that positive on the right, bottom (and therefore left, top in 32 GTR mounting) is more common so many people might have put installed batteries that require wiring that way around; also proves either setup is OK in practice because the standard loom reaches to the other side.

lol not selling PeopleSoft consultants, right Hope life's been treating you well

Actually....workshop manual shows positive to the plenum side, negative to the guard, eg page A6. And FWIW, I personally don't think an ADM R32 is worth 100k+, but clearly some people do! at least we can be pretty confident those ones will be well looked after (yes, I'm looking at you Pete!). Luckily there were 200 people that were willing to pay $110k each back in the 90s, and since that is worth about $215k today that guy looking for $235k+ has only made 20k in 30 years

well...I've learned something new today! shame they are inhex not standard head and the engine set only covers a few external fasteners

sorted!

I feel whorey, sorry Greg. But Prank took part too so it must be OK To be fair, I said daily, not firewood paddock basher. We have a toyota (yuck) to cover that need. Previous owner left it because, who would want a toyota? It must have some sort of internal combustion engine because it makes a massive racket when you turn the key. And has stump pulling torque. Sort of. Redneck Pruning.mov

You said bush. And wood. Tehehehehe

you guys are funny still burning dinosaur juice for daily drivers; go electric instead. dinosaur juice should strictly be saved for hooning related activities only.

Well it won't go to fast with that engine, but the car looks great. Maybe just leave it and enjoy your piece of JDM history?

BTW you don't really need the park input with the current firmware as the IC7 has an ambient light sensor. There are about a billion wires behind the dash that have 12v with parkers because all of the dash and console electronics light up when parkers or headlights are on. glove box light, backlighting for switches, head unit etc etc. Any of them are suitable for this.

I rewired by 32 and put a smartwire PDM in (only fuses remaining are main ones near the battery under bonnet and only relays are the Ignition and ECCS ones), made it massively easier. You would not believe how many fuses and relays there are in these cars. BTW thanks for the thread and I;m enjoying the fibreglass chat elsewhere that I don't understand a word of

LS1 might be cheaper but VK56 is a pretty nice engine The good folks at harrop do a suitable kit. And you wont be happy with an M35 after having had a good C34 for a while, just look at all those posts over the years. They are not the same animals at all.

There have been plenty of rota wheels broken with track use too. Street only....

Looks like 18/19 July, might not be cancelled. Round before in Grafton at long weekend looks like no chance.

Welcome Chris, make sure you head out to the Tamworth round of the state hillclimb champs, Kel and I should be there, and so should Neil (well he bloody better be since he lives there too)

Are you using factory scissor jack or a floor style jack? Factory scissor jack should be used on a point just behind the front wheels or just behind the rear wheels. There is a reinforced section there. To use a floor jack there you would need some sort of spacer like a rubber block so as not to squash the seam. With a floor jack, the rear diff is fine, so is any solid point on the front or rear subframe, particularly where they mount to the chassis. Front diff, front sump and radiator support are not strong enough. Front tow hooks are great too as you can generally get to them without affecting the front diff.

If you want the ECU to think the engine is turning when it isn't (eg to see if an injector clicks open and closed or a spark plug fires), remove the crank angle sensor (but leave it plugged in to the loom) turn the key to ON and turn the rear spindle of the crank angle sensor. ECU sees some RPM (probably pretty low) and does it's thing

As per the link, all R33 GTS25t are Type M. There was only a difference in R32 GTSt models. Front bar looks like standard series 1 with foglights to me (in good conition BTW) but I'm not a bodykit trainspotter. BTW not factory dash, so unlikely to be correct KLM. Plus, I like the stagea better anyway

Personally i get a specialist to do gearboxes, because the key point here is "50 different things are f**ked". Some problems would not be obvious to non-professionals. Obviously pulling apart and putting back together is just following a set of steps carefully, but there is no point doing all that and then realising you didn't see one or more issues.

Ahh, I incorrectly assumed front. I can't see a nut on that ball joint but it's obviously a crap place to get a pic. Taking the drive shaft out of the hub is only 1 nut away... Have you been able to separate the joint from the hub yet? Easier to do that with the nut still on, regardless of method you are using (ball joint separator vs bash the crap out of it because you aren't re-using it). Once it's separated undo (or cut off) the nut