Duncan

RIght. Housing is R34 if it is marked OP6. The internals may not be factory though, you need to find and check the metal plate on the core.

Don't pull it apart yet! Its pretty easy to end up with fuel wash in the bores of a brand newly built motor, and it's unlikely to be ring gaps. Drop the oil and determine if it is fuelly first. In a brand new engine the rings need to bed to the bore. You didn't say, but hopefully the machine shop did hone the bores to put a good cross hatch finish on it to help the new rings bed. Either way, it takes some hard load running (not babying it for 5,000klm like your grandfather used to) to bed the rings in properly. Until the rings are bedded properly you will get some fuel in the oil. If the car is misfiring at this time the likelihood of fuel wash is about x1 million because there is more unburned fuel in the cylinder for longer. So....put good plugs in then run it hard for say 1,000klm. Spirited hills driving is great because you load it up at different rpm. If you only have freeways etc then at least run it in different gears and whatever different revs you can that are safe, and load it up hills (eg flat in 5th). Of course keep you ear out for pinging incase the tuner set those unusual load points properly. If there is a misfire you need to find and fix the cause first. Alternatively, take it back to the dyno and run it in there. Assuming the car is running OK they can do the run in much faster because the dyno lets them set the different load points and how long they want to stay there. Not much point doing a (dry) compression test until the rings are bedded. You could do the test again with a few ml of oil in each cylinder and see if that gives a different result; that would make it more likely rings are the issue.

Glad you added the last line. You need to find and fix the vacuum leak before worrying about the idle, the amount of air that makes it to the engine vs what the AFM thinks it is getting right at the start of the intake is critical to everything

Need to pic to give a meaningful response on options, but yes cutting it off is a reasonable choice. Assuming you are replacing the LCA and ball joint...

Well by eye the cam journals look OK which is good news. While you may have never overtorqued the bolts, you don't know what happened to it before you got it. It may well have had different cams at some stage over the last 30 years. That's why I'd replace all the bolts, OEM are fine if they are cheaper.

Oh, also, why would 1 bolt snap and was it the cause or effect of an issue. Best reason for a bolt to snap is that it was over torqued which means every other cam bolt is suspect. I'd replace the set, ARP do aftermarket that may be cheaper than Nissan (not sure, I've never checked). Alternatively, if there was an oil feed problem to the back that could seize and therefore break the cam. At least post up a pic of the journals under the broken cam.

Cam cap bolt is 13058-56E00. however....it's probably not that simple. #6 valves were closed when the pistons were going uppy downy. there is an oil feed all through there that will have shredded steel and aluminium in it, the cam's tunnel is probably damaged/worn etc etc I would chuck a cam in, do an oil and filter change and see what happens but I don't like your chances

Umm yes that makes the problem pretty obvious, you have a couple of fouled spark plugs ?

glad i mentioned, unfortunately there's no point looking at anything unless the plugs are good. ultimately if they can't fire because too fouled, fuel won't burn and you get mega rich smell and symptoms. you need to put good plugs in and try again, just use cheap coppers as they fire best and are cheapest to replace again if you have to

well, the all of those things point to horribly running rich, and assuming standard setup (or previously working aftermarket setup), the easiest way to get that is to have a reasonable sized air leak after the air flow meter and before the engine. I know you said you checked your intake piping but I'd pull each bit off and have a closer look to see if you can find a loose clamp, split intake pipe or some sort of crack somewhere. BTW, assuming you have changed or cleaned the plugs, you might need to do that often while trouble shooting

rb20e. with auto trans. in a 33 sedan. Man there were some aresholes in nissan's accounting department in the late 90s. Like Bob said, surely you just enjoy driving the 32 with manual rb20det and just put up with the interior being a couple of years older?

:spitsbeerout:

I think PFC is a good choice. Capable enough, cheap these days and benefit over both Haltech and Nistune is you can monitor things when required via the hand controller.

amayama. part numbers for r32 gtr from here: https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan/skyline-gt-r/8-coupe-right-r32-1989-1662/5/428

To be fair, the starter motor has been in the same place for 30 years now ?

I haven't, but I understand it's a valid way to go for a budget rebuild. The skid factory guys covered resurfacing a block (not head) with a stone

A gearbox with worn synchros will have problems shifting gears, generally 4 to 5 is worst but it depends how the box has been treated over the years The faster you shift, the worse the crunch will be, potentially including missing the gear altogether. Short shifters help you physically move the gear selectors faster so yes they make the problem worse. The only proper fix is to pull the gearbox out and have they worn synchros replaced. In the meantime, redline lightweight gear oil (smurf's blood), nulon G70 (or whatever similar is available where you are, there is no location in your profile and you didn't say) or even just heavier oil generally can help

yes it absolutely would. And no, particular brands of tyres aren't shit, they all have better and worse/cheaper tyres in their range, and as tyres get older they harden and lose grip too So, I'd look at the performance end of any manufacturer's range, if you are looking for value someone like falken (eg FK510) is a good place because they have performance tyres but don't charge brand premium like michelin, dunlop, bridgestone etc Personally I've got dunlop dz102 on the stagea which are fine and dunlop sport maxx rt on leaf for road and occasional hillcimb use which are good, but there are a million opinions about performance tyres.

Excellent choice.

Right back to the start of the thread, I think you've just got a boost leak. Check all the big hose clamps between the airbox and the plenum including under the front bar, and also the medium sized stuff in the BOV fittings and their return line. Also check the BOV return (plastic) for big cracks. Potentially but less likely, you may have other smaller vacuum line problems

Big red arrow to square box is the factory MAP sensor, just runs the factory boost gauge. Small red arrow thing on the right is aftermarket but probably for aftermarket boost control. yes, green arrow should plug into back of manifold balance pipe, if it was off that is a problem. It is a crappy hose on a crappy fitting with no lip so it is easy to blow it off under boost, small cable tie can help

Its just a plastic or aluminium ring that takes up the gap between the hub and the wheel centres to locate the wheel when you put it on. The wheel studs do all the work holding the wheel in place. Yes, this could cause a vibration. In theory if your wheel nuts are tapered as most are the wheel will end up centered on the hub even without the right size wheel bore or hub rings, but if it is even slightly off the wheel will be offset to the centre of the hub and will not turn evenly leading to vibration that increases with speed.

honestly mate, the car is making pretty basic power levels and you aren't racing it. Modern synthetic (or even semi-synth) oils are excellent compared to the olden days for everything up to short sprint/race use. So chuck in any 10w40 or 5w40 synth you are happy with and save a fortune. Re temps, personally I'd be looking to keep it under 100, 110 and higher isn't a disaster but it does get hard on everything. Since you say you only drive in summer just add a medium sized oil cooler in good airflow and you should never have to think about it again. Plus, adding an oil cooler is cheaper than putting race oil in every 5000klm

Are you in Australia? No location in your profile and its not clear from your post. I just had the joy of sending 4x 18" wheels to japan, best quote was pack and send at about $950, UPS $1500, Fedex $2,214. Startrack and a couple of others refused to ship to Japan atm. The world of shipping has gone to shit, just like everything else, because there are no commercial planes flying where they can just chuck it in a corner of the hold. There are still dedicated cargo flights but way less capacity so prices are going up

I think you should prove the haters wrong. Please get underway and run a build thread on here so we can follow your progress.