Duncan

w40 is fine for street use unless the rings are worn then you might want w50. I guess you already know this, but if it goes below 0 a bit you probably want 0w40 or 5w40 in cold months

funnily enough, I know W34 stagea is 92137-4P200 because i needed one last week (well, the whole receiver/dryer, but the pressure switch comes in it). R34 is likely to match but not certain If you post your car's VIN number we can look up the correct part. BTW if you put your location on your profile we could provide more specific advice

Handle for the passenger ejector seat. Some better pics would help me be sure.

Greddy have 2 sizes, standard and underdriven. I know this because I spent a frustrating weekend fitting a second set to the race car to discover both the alternator and power steer pulleys were standard size not underdriven as I wanted. Yes, the alternator charges about .1 volt lower. No impact I've seen. The PS underdriven PS pulley is 140mm across compared to 130mm across factory (7% underdriven) and the (hicas removed) steering is heavy but nice. I've been running the original set for 15 years and they have lasted well. The annodising is long gone from the belt drive ribs but as they are ally that is no issue. Having said that, I have never heard of someone having trouble with the standard pulleys either. All I can see for the standard size, aftermarket pulleys is they look a lot nicer.

Well, it's worth that but I'm not sure there are many people that will pay for a pre-built engine. Pretty much everyone wants to do it themselves so they know the claimed parts are in there, and that the machining is right.

Thanks for hosting it Petri ?

sounds like that should provide sufficient power for an older chassis. which engine/ecu loom are you running? generally it would match the head as that is where most sensors are. A powerFC will be the cheapest aftermarket ECU to run it, about $800AUD. Depending on which loom you are running, nistune may be even cheaper. If you want something fully featured (not that those options can't run the car well), haltech and link both have easy options to suit with base maps to start tuning from

Links on their way!

Yep, and second prize is 2 of them

Depends how much work and how hands on you are. "Shell" can mean a lot of different things, from bare (metal with paint) to everything except and engine. Finding things it doesn't come in can end up mega expensive depending on how many things are missing (wiring looms, brake lines, brakes, dash, interior trims, seals, seats, belts etc etc) I think it's going to be a tough journey

Wow...big project to take on if you aren't confident with wiring....lucky you didn't have to drive it to work today ? Best guess is the ECU doesn't have power. Presumably the fuel pump doesn't prime either. But to actually work it out I'd go methodically from the start by checking there is battery power going into the key switch, and that the key switch is working OK (ie, the switch side gives continuity between BAT and ACC in ACC, BAT, ACC and IGN in IGN and BAT and Start in Start.) Next step take ECU out out and check there is BAT where there should be, then IGN where there should be (I don't think ECU uses ACC, but check that too if it does). Keep in mind, in rb25/26 (not sure about RB20 but probably the same) the ECU turns itself on and off by earthing a pin on the ECCS relay, that is the next place to check (ECCS relay earth is turned on by ECU, relay has power supply)

I'm assuming "line pressure solenoid valve (dropping resistor)" was google's translation of that wire? It should terminate at a 2 pin plug just in front of the strut tower. I am 99% sure that is the factory boost control solenoid and therefore probably not required as you almost always have a separate boost control system, either standalone or inside an aftermarket ECU. I don't have a pic of the plug because mine is removed

yup. I just had a quick flick through the 3,200 pages of stagea workshop manual and couldn't find the detailed wiring diagrams. I think you need to pull the loom from the stagea and trace it unless someone has done this before and got the answer handy. Logically the (non Auto Trans) plug carries the main ECU power supplies, and ECU sensors that are on the body not engine - AFM, Air Con pressure switch, Power Steer switch, boost solenoid, aircon fans?

I think i'm catching up. You have a white plug on the stagea engine bay loom with 2 wires that don't have matching wires in the GTR ECU loom? Funnily enough I have a 32 GTR and a S1 auto stagea here but it's pretty much impossible to trace the wires in an assembled engine bay, and to ensure it is hard that particular plug is behind the washer bottle on my stagea. Do you have the stagea engine bay loom to trace them to their other end? You need info from the stagea workshop manual to be sure, on 32 GTR: * Pink. Pin 17 on Auto trans computer in 32 GTS4. Don't know what this is because only have GTR manual with no auto * Blue/Red. Blue/Red is ACC power on a 32 GTR loom. Wires are almost always the same colour on both sides of a plug but of course your looms are from 2 different series (32 GTR vs 34 stagea). I think you need to work through the Stagea manual wiring and don't assume the pins were same between 32 and C34 plugs just because they physically fit!

Those 2 wires are main power feeds I believe. In 32 GTR the large black/white is Ignition power and the yellow is some other power (ACC maybe?) 32 GTR workshop manual will confirm as it includes colour of wires

Where on earth are you that they track toe in fractions of an inch! Adding location in your profile would help. Anyway, the camber front and rear is fine. Yes it could be a little less on the rear with adjustable bushes in the upper control arm, maybe -0.5 as a target, but it is not crazy. Adjustable bushes in the upper control arm are reasonably cheap to have done. However, I assume the issue you saw with "abnormal wear" was at the rear, with the "before" values above. If so it is the left rear toe that was the issue, it was miles out (kilometers out in most of the world) which means the tyre was not running straight on the road.

Hmm I'm a bit behind here, some updates to come. I can confirm that 295/30/18 yokos fit beautifully softs and were good for a 1.05.7 at wakie which is a fair bit quicker than I've gone in this car before (but of course, it is a much bigger and better tyre). But that is jumping a long way ahead....

Yep, that's correct :thumbsup:

Well, it is 9mm on a 32 GTR balancer, and they are either the same or interchangeable with 33/34. It's not flat to the centre as shown in the picture, there is a gap of about 3mm where I assume the rubber bonds the 2 parts together inside the balancer If you are making custom balancers consider shortening the raised lip between the AC and PS pulleys as it interferes with underdriven water pump pulleys like greddy.

Oh that is cruel Nissan, putting 2l single cam in an r33. I don't know how deep the troubles will be; wired in correctly the loom will cover the engine operation, but the gearbox is almost certainly electronically controlled and needs to talk to the ECU. So unless the AT control unit and ECU understand each other that will be a problem. It may be easier to go straight to manual Also....this sort of thing always costs much more than you expect if you are paying someone, because there will be a heap of unknowns you pay to fix by the hour. Don't start if your budget is tight already.

Not sure exactly what you mean by broken water pump, but if coolant is not flowing properly you need to start there Also, if it has been sitting 5 years everything in the fuel system is a problem. Definitely need to flush the tank and replace the filter like Bob said, but it is likely fuel pressure regulator, lines and even injectors will be gummed and failed. I'd replace all lines, FPR and have injectors flow tested before trying much more.

When Dose said solid, I'm sure he meant "not cross drilled" rather than "not vented"

Just out of interest, are you planning on sharing the outcome so others in this community can learn from your experience?

Whoa. I assumed it was a photoshop

Also, if the hose is OK, it might just need a proper hose clamp instead of a 30 year old spring clamp. Not exactly sure what the hose is but I think turbo water feed or return.