Duncan

Also, if the hose is OK, it might just need a proper hose clamp instead of a 30 year old spring clamp. Not exactly sure what the hose is but I think turbo water feed or return.

The number does not correlate to the year, they are just consecutive numbers There are probably lots of little changes along the way in different series. Easiest one I can think of it here is a sump on it is that R34 had a much longer diff ratio that the 4.1 in r32 and r33. But ultimately, other than knowing if the buyer was honest I'm not sure why it would matter. They are mechanically same same one the inside

Yeah the markings refer to the grades when it left factory. Best to accurately linish the crank for oversize bearings and just buy them at the right clearance. Most common option in Aus is ACL bearings but if you can get factory ones where you are that is an option. No bearing should be meaningfully "better", just get the clearances right

It's likely the only difference between them is a couple of wires for lights which show which gear the auto trans is in. Physically they will mount the same way and be the same shape, but the connectors are potentially different (noting Finn said it worked for him). Just post up a little more about specifically what the problem was....did it mount up OK? Did all the plugs fit? And if yes to both, what wasn't working?

My experience is with R32 GTR, being 10 years newer there may be easier ways to do it in an R34 It is a complete prick of a task. Ultimately I pressure bled the system - 4 calipers (8 nipples), in order of furthest to closet to the master cylinder (so RR, LR, RF, LF) and then the 2 nipples on the top of the ABS. Of course, since there was air in the ABS unit it was unsatisfactory, and since this was happening during a rally I needed to deal with it. So, after each stage I bled the ABS again (during the stage each time you trigger the abs all the little solenoids and things open and close moving air through the system). Still sucked. After the event I then did a full bleed and it came up good So, pressure bleeding makes it much easier because a single person can do it with less effort, and the ABS didn't come good simply by bleeding it static, it needed to be cycled a whole bunch of times before the air all moved out. Hopefully R34 has some sort of ABS bleeding mode you can put it in instead of having to drive it and activate ABS over and over again...

You need to check the resistance of the sender at full and empty to calibrate the gauge, I haven't checked how the IC7 does that yet. If it needs to be an ECU input you just plug the values into the fuel level calibration in the haltech. R32 GTR values are in the workshop manual from memory.

Now that is much more you than the previous hairdresser car. Add turbos please. Apparently a pair of GT3582 are the go.

Toyota 86...

Nissan dealers will be helpful if you need a genuine oil filter for a Dualis, and that's about all. Amayama is my first port, if I need to find something I can't I use Jesse Streeter who is an ausssie expat in Japan and is super helpful.

Well, required clearance comes down to your willingness to run unbalanced wheels and accept gouges in the wheels when rocks flick up.... For race use both are usually acceptable....but I'm not sure taking that chance is a good idea with post-US-25-years-rule prices on genuine skyline wheels...

I've actually got 330mm ksports under r34 gtr wheels on my stagea. (rough) measurements are: 410mm inner diameter of the wheel (18x9" R34 GTR standard) 40mm clearance either side of the disc (330+40+40=410mm) 20mm clearance from the caliper to the inner wheel (or to say it another way, they hug the disc nicely, only 20mm proud) Based on all that those 355s would fit fine - 12.5mm less clearance at the caliper still leaves 8.5mm clearance for a 355 kit. Of course, different 355 kits will have difference sizes, but generally you would expect a 355 kit to fit under 18s.

For looks or performance? Good 355mm rotors, pads and calipers will work up to and beyond 24 hour endurance racing. Assuming it's for looks I'd check out R35 brakes, I know that 18" wheels can be used on an R35, so those brakes must fit under 18s

Check out Lumley as well. My experience with Shannons is they were great with taking premiums, not so fair and reasonable with paying claims which I kind of thought was the point of insurance...

yeah not cheap but the engineering looks excellent. the skid factory on youtube just put one on a holden v8 and even it was able to make power!

Agreed, and this could almost certainly be made to fit https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/4x4-performance/supercharger/fdfi2300-nissan-y62-patrol-series-1-5-kit But, too much power to handle?

the point is, getting the bearing remains out is irrelevant. The engine needs to be disassembled, measure and rebuilt or simply replaced. if the bearing has spun enough to weld onto the journal, both surfaces are almost certainly f**ked and need machining. Potentially it is too badly damaged to even put oversize bearings in, but you can't tell without disassembling and measuring

Getting the bearing off the rod and crank is of no relevance, both will need to be measured and almost certainly machined before they could be re-used, let the machine shop sort it. BTW if it has spun that badly everything where oil goes needs to be disassembled and cleaned or replaced including any oil cooler and factory water/oil cooler. If machining/rebuilding is out of budget throw them in the bin and put a second hand engine in.

shit mark, glad you are OK. But if an 86 is too much to handle, what possible option is there to downgrade to?

Not sure where you are (no location in your profile), but just jap seems to have these in stock brand new https://justjap.com/nissan-passenger-side-air-vent-assembly-nissan-skyline-r32.html

Well, what it originally left the factory with is stamped on the chassis plate on the firewall. R32 GTST came with rb20det not rb25det, although some late r32 gts came with rb25de no t. But I guess you are asking if you have an rb25det motor with a turbo removed, or an rb25de. One way to tell should be a compression test as the rb25det will have lower compression, not sure other certain ways because it seems some rb25de blocks had plugged ports for the oil feed and oil return instead of nothing at all (although, no oil ports would confirm rb25de) Quick search on here suggests 75T was the casting number for both rb25de and rb25det from R33 gtst, so that doesn't help.

I don't think the Australian contingent on here can really help answer the question of value, over here we would not pay more than 8,000 or maybe 10,000 aussie pesos but r32 gtst are readily available here....

Well, this has kind of been covered here before, and I don't know where you are because you didn't fill in the location field of your profile....but answers are: 1. You need to move from 296mm rotor to 324mm rotor for r33/r34 gtr. eg DB5928 for 2 piece slotted. 2. Standard lines fit fine. R33/34 brembos were standard fitment on R32 vspec I and II models too. 3. Keep the standard master cylinder, it will be fine. You may need to trim or push back the backing plates behind the rotors, but otherwise that is a straight fit upgrade to an r32.

Well, 707160-5 is a "-5" turbo. Can't really say if that is or is not what you wanted for an mx-5, what is the capacity? 1.6, 1.8? Those turbos are a common upgrade as a pair on rb26 motors, but most people find them too big/laggy for street use in that setup

Yes, everything connected after the throttle in the current setup and MAP goes into the plenum (you'll probably need fittings). Anything before the throttle like BOV pressure or boost controller still needs to go before the throttle (on custom piping generally)

Good news, yes still available for $250