Duncan

Yes, Yes, no necessarily (longer oil pump drive is desirable not required), not exactly (the lower bolt holes will be off between the sump and gearbox by the height of the awd adapter. depending on how much that troubles you I've seen some people just leave the lower bolts out, my gearbox was redrilled for the new lower bolt locations. The rb30 pdf guide has information on tensioner options, and depending on the block you get you may already have to location for the tensioner machined, or you may need to get that done. There can also be differences on whether the required oil feed and returns are in the block or whether you have to drill and tap them beyond that, motor prep is like any other rebuild (you can decide how far to go), and things like radiator hoses will not fit directly and will need modification. And finally, I think it is a terrible idea to put an rb30 in a R34 GTR these days. Start with something people don't care about like a 33 GTR instead (no one cares about middle children).

sorry, no spare timing cover. Also, pretty sure the 32 one is cast ally FWIW

only if he can't get his hands on a z24.

Original factory 260 turbos?

I sorted it in the end, and this is now in Motorsport Builds. Turns out there is an Motorsport / Builds section and a Builds/ Motorsport link, I was trying to move to the link not the forum. Rookie. Keep up the crazy work!

PM sent!

p787 of the workshop manual shows the wiring for the switch and p788 the defogger itself. You would need to trace through but the p787 stuff will help you understand if there is a problem before or at the switch

That button locks the ATTESSA transfer case, exactly like a 4wd with a traditional transfer case. You should never run it on dry, paved surfaces

Properly functioning HICAS is not a death trap, Nissan's GTR engineers were not a bunch of dickheads. There will be increasing numbers of people looking to own an unmolested original setup as they increase in value. Anyway, the key thing to change is those ball joints in the hub, they are a bastard to do but a really bad wear point. Both inner and outer tie rod ends can also wear so you may as well change them at the same time. The rest of the system is just the power steering pump providing pressure, the HICAS solenoid that controls the pressure and the ram next to the diff, all that stuff will either be working fine or not at all.

You ran out of fuel

Yes, I did assume 98 octane, not e85, as OP mentioned it was for street use. While e85 may not be impossible for street use it is not practical for daily driving in Oz. And these days, who know's where a poster is based BECAUSE NOONE FILLS IN THE BLOODY LOCATION FIELD ON THEIR PROFILE SO PEOPLE CAN GIVE THEM RELEVANT ADVICE!!!!

Well, nissan didn't put them there.... Most likely you have a sandwich plate under the oil filter and it has been disconnected somehow. You need to pull the filter off to get a better look.

350 awkw (australian wheel kilowatts) will require -5 and will come with a bit of lag. 300-330 is a better sweet spot and would still move you around town ok.

Not to mention suicidal motorbike riders considering the one that drove into the back of the commodore (those things must be damn valuable with holden gone!) Good to catch up today and a big turn out considering very few posted up on here

I don't know if it will fix the problem in your case, but the oil cap vent is the quickest bandaid way to improve things to find out....

If they are leaking from the banjo fitting just back it off a 1/8 turn and then tighten again. They run copper washers and these can reseat when you do that. Both lines into both turbos are prone to have the flare fitting seize onto the line so be very careful if you decide to try and back them off and reseat them as you can twist and break the hard line (this is also a likely failure point on the hard line if someone has been in there before you). I actually don't know if you can replace the lines with turbos on, I've only ever done it when I had the turbos off anyway. Even if it is possible to do with the turbos in place it may well be quicker to do it with them off.

well you beat me to my suggestion since it's a 34 GTR ? seriously....find a more traditional panel beater who has the old skills to make them, not a modern guy who just buys bits and glues them back on.

early start at about 5am to get there, but we'll bring the car out for a run, see y'all tomorrow

Also, if the engine is super new, give the rings some time to bed in before being too worried. Make sure you run it pretty hard rather than just idling or driving at low load. One quick fix that will work better than a dipstick vent is to vent via the oil cap. Just put on a alloy cap and weld a large dash fitting on

I was not aware of an electrical difference, just cosmetic between series 1 and 2....I'd start with checking if temperature, rpm and speed (out) are all on the same plug that was not seated properly when you put it back in. The speedo itself is mechanical and is often installed incorrectly onto the cable (sounds like yours is OK), but the dash provides the speed signal conversion for the ECU and probably HICAS. Also, when you say power steering stops woking, I assume you mean you get less assistance, not none at all. If HICAS gets no speed signal it gets heavier but you should still have some power assist; I run mine without the speed signal at all times and find it OK.

The traditional japanese method involves a 1kg fire extinguisher in one inlet at the AFM, and an oil filter with no internals and a hole drilled in the top for the pressure source

Also, there are at least 4 different specs of n1 turbos R32 n1 were bush bearing only and about as laggy as -5 but make probably 20% less power. You would only choose them if you were racing in a class that required the factory turbos for example R33 n1 were ball bearing and a little smaller, and in R34 there were smaller and larger rear housing options. Either way these are roughly equivalent to -7 and -9 respectively, but more expensive The "best" turbo always depends on your power target and how responsive you want them to be. For road driving where you are looking for a little more than standard (say 20-30%), -9 is a great compromise. BTW there is a really long thread with people's actual experiences with rb26 dyno results, suggest having a skim if you want a range of experiences.

Good choice to replace it. i'll bet nissan properly engineered the rb30 bolt and torque specs, and that a properly torqued factory bolt has never come undone. The problem comes in when timing belts etc get changed long after they'v'e left the factory.

I don't have the exact figures close but rb26 is different and much higher than rb25/20/30....if you are using the factory bolt, use the number from the workshop manual.

Sounds like an interesting project. I don't have the figures to confirm, but in our production car racing we have the cams measured before being sealed into the engine. The measuring is done by Camtech in Sydney, so they must have the data you are after for the stock cams.