Duncan

You dropping by for a beer mate? Pretty sure the 86 won't make it down the last road to our place since the last floods though....so we may have to set up chairs on the corner

Great story, although it feels a bit like one of those movies with flash backs and flash forwards and you can never really tell where you are up to in time. More fail pics!

It really does sound like a bleeding issue. A mismatched master cylinder creates a long but consistent pedal.

Big end bearings. I always keep a box handy for emergencies.

standard turbo will pretty much get there, so at most a high flow standard turbo with a bit more boost will do it - then you don't have to change any of the intake, exhaust, fittings etc.

It will work fine, as long as you are still running the air flow meter of course. Having a BOV connected will help prevent stalling when the throttle shuts suddenly which can be hard to tune for with an AFM That was pretty similar to what I had been running for years on a PFC before I went a little sillier on the new engine...

I disagree, PowerFC with Handcontroller ($800-1000) will show everything OP requested plus much more (ecu inputs status, ability to set basic parameters, and even full tune if really necessary) for less than half the price of a haltech/link etc with dash. I've just replaced the PFC with a Link in the stagea and miss the hand controller, am looking at adding OBD port and OBD display to the Link but everything is more $$$ to do what the PFC already did. Yes they are more capable ECUs but for a standard or lightly modified car PFC have been doing the job perfectly for decades.

Bolts hold something in place using friction (tightness), they don't locate them. Spacers might help you assemble it in place but properly torqued nuts on the studs will hold the manifold in place regardless of the size of the hole vs size of the stud

Thanks for coming back to confirm what happened, may help future people with similar problems

Yes, that is a push clutch. I can't confirm the trans as I'm not familiar with the 2wd ones by sight.

jesus why are you trying to run your car on gas instead of petrol? Our mate Mark converted his GTR to gas but you can't expect to just put gas in the tank and not have it waft back out????

Generally it works the other way; find a broker you trust and the inspection is included in their cost.

Well, I can confirm they are the part numbers for my 32 gtr's vin as well. Mix door actuator - 27732-01U00 Mode door actuator - 27731-53E00 My understanding (of the impossible FAST diagram section 270) is that part code 27733N is just the actuator, while 27733NA is the actuator, bracket and wiring. Also, I have a heater box on the shelf and can take some pics if you need. No part number on either actuator to confirm physically though. Are you just trying to replace both as preventative, or is there a problem you are trying to fix?

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Have a look under the car at the slave cylinder. If it points to the rear it is a push clutch. Most likely a push clutch in a conversion, they are cheaper and easier to work with, but no guarantee without checking of course.

Agreed, nothing is really required for heavy foot street use. Oil problems start to show at sustained high revs (where you end up with excess oil in the head) and sustained high gs (where the oil in the sump moves away from the pick up). Put both together like lapping a track and you can get problems. Yep, since it's apart, that is exactly what I would do, plus adding in sump baffles for the standard sump. Minor change but can help a little for little cost.

At 220kw ish pretty much any lightly upgraded clutch will suit. If by more positive you mean it bites more suddenly as you let it out, look at the exedy puck style clutches and their billion copies. I much prefer the progressive feel of a full face clutch like that mantic one, particularly if you don't want to be stalling in traffic all day

Agree. And yes in rb engines (although possibly not rb20?) there will be terminal damage if it breaks; the valves will hit the pistons and be bent requiring major work. As for doing the job....its about the hardest job an untrained person would take on, but as always if you follow the instructions, take it slowly and have the right tools it is perfectly doable. Unfortunately there is a heap of work which is why it is expensive to get done by a workshop.

It's a warning that you are not driving the car properly. Remember to hold the wheel at "quarter to three", and never have a phone in one hand while driving.

Actually Nismo GTRs and N1 spec were different things, the Nismo cars had cosmetic mods only and were reasonably common in the earlier production years. N1 spec was a different story and was different by year depending on Vspec 1 or Vspec 2 base, they also had cosmetic changes but also larger, steel wheel turbos and larger brakes (brembo) on vspec 2. Still, these days everything is getting hard to find, so good score.

I'm sorry if I sound circular, but Nissan used different protocols over different years in different cars in different countries. They designed their Consult machines to understand them and didn't give a flying whether the aftermarket did, or if there is a cheap option to read them 20 years later. They want you to buy a new Tiida or whatever Renault based shitbox they sell today. If you want to read codes on an older car, don't expect someone today is working on cracking that protocol to make it easy and cheap for you. I know that sucks but that is capitalism. In any case, I think this is a red herring dead end blind alley blank wall. Your stalling issue is probably mechanical not ECU related. I applaud your efforts to work it out yourself but I suggest less ECU and more basic mechanical. Does it get the right fuel for the air it actually receives and apply the right timing at idle? ignition or timing issue, air leak, dodgy injector or fuel pressure etc etc

Thanks for the update, and GTSBoy gets a prize. Also, treat your car nicer next time. You own a future classic, not a shitter.

Argh I take that back, you mean 32 gtst not 32 gtr. post up your vin# and I will check 32 GTR number in FAST.

32 gts4 rack will fit. 33 gtr rack I'm not sure, the part numbers are different but that doesn't mean they are not interchangeable. And, funnily enough it may be harder to find 32 parts in jp than aus...they turn over their cars and spares way younger than we do....

Definitely keep hold of those GTR turbos. Can't believe how many I turfed over the years. BTW yes that turbo is expensive (esp in USD), but realistically a properly rebuilt turbo probably does go for 1000, and you need to consider those might be pretty rare these days.