Duncan

Basically, it's confusing. Nissan call the scanners their dealers have Consult (2,3, or 3+ that I know of). in the 80s and early 90s before they started using OBD ports, they called the nissan proprietary grey diagnostic plug the Consult Port. AFAIK Nissan don't refer to Consult as a protocol, but that doesn't mean people selling aftermarket tools wouldn't do so. Bottom line is that an OBD compliant car provides a minimum specified set of data through an OBD port. Your car, and lots of other older Nissans, are not OBD compliant so your scan tool of choice needs to understand the non-OBD protocol to read messages.

good call. right size, era, style, and has the same ridged castings on the core

that's my bet too. but I can't say I understand what happened to cause it from the description

Welcome Derek, and it would be good to hear more about how the project goes. I take it that is the only pic you have of the turbo? Do you have the exhaust, manifold or intake where they connected to the turbo that you can measure up? The key things to identify it are size, turbo to manifold type (T3, T4 etc), dump pipe size and possibly the intake connections. Hopefully there are people on here with better memories around the older datsun turbos who might be able to assist. I can't see a wastegate and it looks like it is only oil cooled, not water cooled, which probably narrows it down a heap. The core itself also looks pre 90s to me, so probably first generation datsun turbo like fj20, puslar turbo etc

You can always put more torque on something with a large breaker bar than with a rattle gun. If the bar isn't long enough, extend it with something like a jack handle or iron pipe. Also, give it a bit of heat with a blow torch first, and a shock or 2 as well (put socket over bolt, hit firmly with hammer a couple of times) BTW, question we should have asked first....what are you trying to do? Change rear wheel bearings I guess? If so you should undo the control arms and ball joints and remove that big bolt in a vice on a bench. All the other stuff like reinstalling bearings and dust seals will be easier with the hub off the car. And it will have to come off for pressing the centres out anyway

If you are buying new tools to undo stubborn bolts, generally 1/2 sockets and long bars "breaker bars" are the cheapest way. Long spanners exist but you have to buy each size, and they wont always get at the bolt head as they have to be flat against it, with a socket you can use various length extensions to get at the bolt head

The basic OBD pin outs are the same, so you don't miss any messages that the software/reader understands. Depending on car, there are non-standard pins connected as well but they provide non standard data, eg ATTESSA codes in GTRs. Nissan Consults understand all of these combinations although they have a couple of models depending on car year too (2, 3 and 3+ I believe) The problem lies in the software/reader display not knowing how to decode non-standard messages and in my experience its a bit hit and miss. Scan tools that read a wide range of vehicles and have all that R&D are $10-20k. I've had most luck with my nissans with greddy informeter which has supported my OBD Titan, J-ODB Cima and Consult Stagea, didn't get anything from the Leaf though (not that it has an engine). It shows different information for each which reinforces all the different protocols over time need different coding. If you have a one off error code that needs reading and the $20 bluetooth adapters and free software don't show it, by far the best approach is to take it to a mechanic with a good scan tool and just pay up the $100 or whatever they ask, since you should also get guidance on what the actual problem is (or at least next steps in troubleshooting are) No idea why there are so many different approaches, but I think part of the answer lies in the fact these protocols have developed over 25 years, and while US mandate a set of OBD messages, they are a minor slice of the new car market, china buy 5 times as many per year

I don't think it will help too much towards resolving the stalling, but yes, Japanese cars in general, and Nissans in particular, can have an OBD port physically, but not support the OBD protocol. Sometimes that is generically called J(apanese)-OBD but it is not even a country wide standard, each manufacturer and potentially model made decisions about how to implement it. OBD is only standardised in the US, and even then it only requires a specific set of functions, not all the information that might be available within the CAN

Well the good news is a bad ground might stop something working, but it won't break it. Even if a short is caused you should only lose a fuse, not the control unit. There is a ground from the body to the rear subframe that is often removed or broken, particularly if the subframe has been out. That ground missing is the most common cause of the error you saw, but not it this case it seems

Did you check the plugs? It is reasonably likely that you've fixed a problem with the coil packs but if the plugs are already fouled it won't get better until you change them. Or a thousand other potential reasons of course

Personally, I wouldn't be spending my hard earned on for a daily driver unless it was causing a noticeable problem... Something not working fully could have a lot of causes, most of which come down to age/wearing out but not having failed yet. Since the problem is somewhat intermittent it would be hard for a knowledgeable mechanic to track down, let alone someone without familiarity with the systems

Also, the issue could be with corrosion in the external sockets, not inside the unit. Have a look if the pins in the socket needed a clean up. Since the error was earth circuit, the ATTESSA CU pin out will tell you which pin(s) are earth

Manual is on it's way

well a common problem these days is the nitrogen cannister loosing pressuring requiring the attessa pump to run continuously which may mean the actuator is not fully engaging. anyway, I don't actually know how fixed the standard system was designed to be. SInce you were on a 4wd dyno, did they mention the concern because other cars they have run on it were noticably more consistent? Other than actuation issues (you would expect the computer to want max front torque on a dyno because it is 100% wheel slip), they are basically an auto trans inside with wet clutches so it is possible there is a mechanical issue in the transfer case too like worn clutches. I'd have to say that if my street car had 4wd varying by 10% in extreme conditions personally I wouldnt lose a moment's sleep. Different in a race car or if you genuinely need a perfect 4wd system for regular snow driving or something,

you really need an appropriately sized pin punch and a bigger hammer

Yeah you need to remove the roll pin that holds the shifter receiver onto the rail. Bonus points if you don't knock the pin into the transfer case and never see it again

Excellent info, thanks!

It will be a blue relay above the ECU. If there are 2, one is the ignition and the other is ECCS (ECU power) But what exactly is the input you need? Just ignition on (from the key) or something else?

Try white hot motorsport on facebook?

2wd and 4wd front ends are totally different (strut vs wishbone). Best to just make a custom setup for the ABS sender if it is that important

And adapters are specific to a source model and target disc size, so your specific combination may not exist off the shelf

About bloody time for an overdue intro! I reckon we crossed paths back in the day; I had my blue r33 gtst up there for about 18 months when I worked down at the base in 2003-04. Used to love the commute to work, no speed limits or traffic (unless I was going at the same time as all the buses). Damn hard to find 98 octane though, if I remember right there was only 1 BP that sold it, for any price they wanted.

Good work to weigh both

lol thanks Ben and no stitches Yes, best way to have anything actioned by mods is to use the report button. And no, we removed the edit feature (including attachments) long time back due to scammers.

There really isnt a big difference in pressure with a 1.3 bar cap, so if using one causes leaks, it is time to replace the hoses anyway as they are on their way out (or, even easier, hose clamps might just need to be nipped up a little tighter.