Duncan

yeah that's exactly why I was wondering. stock pump and not happening under sustained high revs means it is unlikely to be a "too much oil in the head" issue, just a "oil shifting in the sump under high g" issue....it obviously goes ok overfilling should be fine until you have a reason to open the engine

Great to hear that the oil pressure warning was doing it's job. What sump, baffles and oil pump, what is the oil breathing setup, and was anything done around block oil returns or cam cover baffles?

great outcome from the engine these cars should have left the factory with let us know how it goes once you lean on it a bit.

The easiest way to deal with 12mm bolts in a 14mm hole is a 14mm outer diameter , 1mm thick spacer tube. I don't think you are talking about 14mm bolts in a 12mm hole, but if you are, yes you can just drill out the hub, but if you need to drill out the caliper you would also have to tap it to M14 and the right thread pitch which is a big tap. Or, buy a kit that fits like I suggested above, or at least go r34 gtt brakes which will be the right size (but this option can add up between second hand calipers, new discs, new pads, and either keep old brake lines or buy new ones)

Sorry I might have missed this, but you had this apart the valves were bent? Either way, if you can see cross hatches in the bore then it was probably rebuilt reasonably recently. Assembling a bottom end is not rocket science, particularly with the manual available (although i've learned through experience to always double check the measurements). All the machining (and preferably cleaning) needs to go to a machine shop. You'll need new rings, big end and main bearings, spiggot bush, rear main and crank seals and all gaskets. Consider putting in a new oil pump too. However, since it had good compression, didn't burn oil and bores looked clean, I would not be doing anything with the bottom end.

Putting aside the tuner's responsibility... You need to look at the top of #3 piston to decide how much damage it is. Every engine with a few klm on it will be pretty dirty so clean it up with a scotch brite pad and see what the damage looks like. Assuming it looks OK, next question is, how many klm on the engine, when you say the compression is "really good", what do you mean, and does it smoke or use oil. If all of those point to the bottom end being in good condition, leave it as is and just replace the timing belt etc, head back on and cross your fingers. If there is any sign the bottom end is tired, now is definitely the time to deal with it, pull it out, disassemble, measure and put at least new rings and bearings in

You want these, or equivalent https://justjap.com/catalog/product/view/id/20578/s/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r34-99-02/category/2868/ Everything is new including brake lines, pads, discs, and they are well made and well tested Just contact them first to confirm they will fit NA R34 (I expect they will), and what the minimum size wheels are. I run these on my Cima and Stagea, and have used them on my race car (with different pads), have found them reliable and good value.

Firstly, there is nothing wrong with a PFC, they've been reliably running rbs for decades. Yes there are newer ECUs with additional features but a PFC is able to run it perfectly until you start to get pretty highly modified. The afm curve is not really that important. Pick whatever is closest and then just tune it. Basically your fuel map is based on whatever the AFM is telling it for load, so whatever it is set to when you tune is fine. Just don't change it after you tune it! If you are trying to put back an unknown AFM curve so your tune will be OK again, you are out of luck. Even 1% different to the original curve can be enough to make the tune unsafe. FWIW I do have the rb26 data for standard, vg30, vh41, power intake and the calculated result I used for nismo afms per GTSBoy's approach because I went through that (turns out vg30 and nismo afms are not exactly the same after all) but it was pre-tuning, and it was never really worth the effort because you still just tune the result the same way

It's just a stud in a thread, but it could be seized. Couple of tricks -spray well with penetrating oil over a day or 3 -heat often loosens these things, eg a 15sec with a blow torch -with a nut just protruding, give it a firm hit with a hammer to loosen the threads. if it is the lock nut coming undone from the 2nd nut you need to tighten them. If you think there is too much force and they still are not turning, try those 3 tricks

This is a really simple question....but did you centre the rack before putting the steering wheel on?

reading out of order! good finding. missing a 1 on the tensioner stud

actually, I seem to have the tensioner stud part (13073-V5001) but not the idler bolt. please double check before trusting the internet!

well, sorry to bring bad news, but at least you know before it's all back together. I'd strongly recommend you change the bolt and stud that hold the idler and tensioner at the same time. There have been instances of old bolt snapping which throws the timing belt off, and will result in piston/valve damage in the engine.

Firstly the bad news is that side A goes into the engine, and side B faces out. Sounds like you have them the other way around. Those caps are just baffle plates to reduce oil spraying around, you remove them first if you need to remove the cam caps. No need to touch them if you are just doing the timing belt You should really replace the idler and tensioner bearings, and the bolt and stud respectively that hold them when you do the timing belt. The tensioner spring is actually held on the small stud you can see to the right of the tensioner in your pic, not the water pump bolt. When you have lined the new belt up properly (tensioner held back with an alley key, nut loose) you release the allen key so the tensioner is on the spring, rotate the motor twice using the balancer and the tension will be correct (tighten the tensioner nut).

Agreed. It is possible to snap a cam either removing or installing it if you are a gorilla. But if you take it incrementally it is perfectly safe.

It left the factory KH3 which I believe is black

The ECU connector is totally different (2 row vs 3 row), you need the non-neo one to match your car. They should come up all the time, r33 rb25 Power FC is reasonably common, r34 neo rb25 less so

Best to post up here, and I think you will need to provide your vin

I've got an R auction car in Oz, my cima had a rear end accident and quality repair. The car has been complied in Australia and there is no sign of the repair, and no problem with the car for more than 200,000klm now. Simply, I'd go for it, particularly for race use, as long as a broker I trusted inspected in directly.

Yes, multiple ways to deal with it. But the one that doesn't cost 00s or 000s is small wheel spacers. If they are legal where you are.

That's your caster rod/ radius rod. Basically, the tyre is to wide for the offset of your wheels. You may have previously had tyres the "same" size but in practice different tyre manufacturers have different actual tyre sizes for a nominated size like 225/50r16 Easiest solution, assuming you have plenty of thread on your wheel nuts, is to add a 5mm alloy spacer, which will push the wheel out 5mm, assuming they are legal where you are.

Agreed. Although head gasket is the most likely (but not) only reason for 2 adjacent cylinders to have low compression

hmmm, actually there is some problem moving it, will try and work it out...

Sorry mate, didn't realise it was in the wrong section, fixed. And your helper looks about as helpful as the ones at my place.... Centre lock is a big step, it will definitely restrict your wheel choice (and price) too. Radicals do it by bolting an adapter onto the standard 4 stud ford ka hub that they use, but that doesn't save you weight or get you a better quality wheel bearing.

As long as it is warm but not overheating, oil pressure is right and the tune is good, you should do everything to it, all the time, except hit the rev limiter more than briefly. If you are doing track work on good tyres, oil surge causing loss of oil pressure can be an issue. If your tune is not right for your fuel octane, or you have a fuel system problem (failing pump, pump wiring, clogged injectors, failing regulator) it could ping and melt a piston (keep an ear out for that, it is a distinctive "rock in a tin can noise") If your timing belt, and the idler and tensioner bearings have not been replaced every 100,000, do so ASAP. If it is misfiring, stop pushing it and sort out the problem (many causes) If it uses oil between changes (I'd suggest every 5-10,000klm depending on what you use and how you treat it), start saving for a rebuild (head and/or bottom end)