Duncan

Generally, because test conditions and procedures vary, you'd be looking for consistency in the result (which you do have) more than the specific numbers. Apart from actual engine problems, bigger cams can lead to lower results, but so can incorrectly calibrated gauge, poor battery charge, test technique etc etc It is higher klm so you should expect some ring wear by now, I'd keep an eye out for white smoke and oil consumption between oil changes, that should give you a good indication if they are worn. In any case, those results are no sign you are about to have a sudden failure. Maybe just start saving for a rebuild (cost will vary based on how much you do at the same time)

I'm limited in what I can change by production car rules, I have to run standard pump but can (and have) changed the pulley to underdriven. I had issues with leaking from the cap until I added a reasonable sized cooler but it has been OK since. HICAS is removed and so are the vanes in the rear stage of the pump so it doesn't die from pushing against the blocked off line. I also lost a belt once but NFI why as nothing had changed recently, and only once in 10 years race/rally

r32 hicas has 2 outlets from the power steer pump...and that pic (while difficult to see clearly), seems to have 2 outlets.

Hi Josh, I'd suggest calling Unigroup as they are not too far and may well have a consult 3 or something that will work. If not, Gary at Just Jap (further away) is almost certain to have the technology you need. All the best with a CVT issue, they can be a bit tricky, you may need to talk to Just Jap due to their experience resolving those issues. V35 were pretty early for high torque CVTs and I think they are problematic sometimes.

pm replied, with manual

well the good news is that is likely to be straightforward....the hazard light positive is earthed somewhere... first, unhook the flasher unit and replace the fuse, does it still blow? Yes, replace flasher, no, you have a wiring issue. It's not impossible it is a globe but unlikely (you could pull out each globe in turn and see if that resolves the issue, don't forget the locally added side repeaters in the guard). Nissan (or amayama) should have the flasher, if not an aftermarket replacement is an option but you will need to connect the terminals correctly. If it is a wiring issue you really need to start pulling things apart to access the wiring to find the problem, or if that doesn't sound like fun take it to an auto electrician. Another possibility, as it is non turbo, is to just set it on fire and put the video on youtube, hopefully the advertising income will exceed the value of the car.

Our dam has been equally kind over the years as the drought has gone on. Got a hilux alternator from it the other week

a bit of heat always helps, ally fittings can seize in a cast block unfortunately. Given that its already f**ked id take to it with a hammer and chisel after a bit of heat to try and get it started. Once it goes should be easy enough to get on. sounds funny but another option might be those plumbers pipe wrenches as its a pretty big fitting if you have space

Also get plenty of wd40 etc on the studs and hard lines for a couple of days before. The biggest (unexpected) thing is normally studs failing and snapping, so if you can have them freed up as possible before you start it will really help. Once a stud has given out you might be lucky and able to get it off with whatever remains, or you might have to drill and easi out it which is where the job turns into a disaster. Heat /blow torch can really help if you don't like how it feels when you are undoing it. The hard lines often won't free up from the banjo properly so they turn with it an eventually snap, so like Ewan said aftermarket braided lines handy means you don't have to worry about that. Good luck mate!

It's not worth it. But interesting point, it may have been de-turboed before you got it. The build plate in on the firewall will tell you, either post up a pic of it or let us know the main string of letters/numbers, something like ER33-0123456

unless your location is incorrect, you have the major benefit of a billion mechanics nearby with consult tools. I would start with that for sure. when you installed the lock bar, what did you do with the hicas solenoids in the engine bay, and the power steering pump's second port? The idle dropping and headlights diming is almost certainly due to the power steering pump activating and adding drag to the engine. With the steering rack there is a pressure switch where if you turn the wheels the ECU ups the idle. I'm not familiar with HICAS but presumably when it is pumping fluid the same issue occurs (ie, the ECU needs to know to keep the revs up)

there are lots of variations over the 20 odd years these were made. I guess the question is why exactly do you need to know, or are you just interested? the short blocks/ bottom ends are pretty much the same, heads were different between original and NEO, sump is different between 2wd and 4wd (since 4wd has a diff in it), and various external bits like CAS, ignitors/coils, turbo changed between years and models too. The key difference in the NEO for aftermarket use is the improvements in the head which made them flow better and also better starting point for modifications.

lol just like the workshop manual says. the only things worth mentioning are dropping the rear of the gearbox by lowering (but not removing) the gearbox cross member bolts, will make getting to the top bolts much easier (either from above, or by using a set of long extensions while standing at the rear of the gearbox), and of course the engine has to be on the exact sample angle as the gearbox/input shaft when you get to the last couple of cm. BTW I hope the mechanic is mates rates if they needed to get you to ask this...

Absolutely. The rings won't bed if the bore is fuel washed. How much compression has gone missing (how does the leaky cylinder compare to the others?) and, did it have a missfire for those 40 mins? finally, once the injector is replaced you may still be able to get the rings to bed properly by running it in hard on a dyno to save having to remove, disassembly and re-hone.

wow, a 2l, non turbo stagea. ouch. hope the neo head is awesome....

Wha!!! (back to the manual for me)

That pic is not good enough for me to work out, but there is no vacuum line to PS. Most likely it used to be one of the 3 lines that run to the carbon cannister....do you have one? It is mounted near PS in the engine bay from factory

Duplicate threads merged, (because I think both answers are right!). First make certain it is not selecting 5th (ie, at freeway speeds are you sure the revs are identical when you change), if it is not selecting 5th it is box out and get them to fix whatever part of gearbox magic they didn't put together correctly..... When the car is off, and you move it through all 5 gears (+r) does it make the same clunking noises into each gear? If there is no noise or resistance into 5th that is a pretty good sign something is wrong internally...

Not sure who WOF is, or what state (or for that matter country) you are in to give a more specific answer....but generally no, if you went for a recheck and they saw a removable silencer in the end of your exhaust, I would not expect them to think it was OK (they may suspect you intend to remove it after the check, which I'm sure you wouldn't)

lots of ways this can go wrong, primarily because the shifter goes into the transfer case, not the gearbox. So, transfer case could have 4l of gear oil in it (not good for it, and likely to cause plenty of splashing). Yes, the shifter boot is the primary thing keeping the transfer case oil in, secure it with a big cable tie. There should be a gasket between the housing and shift housing but that is much less likely to be a source of leak, and can just be silicone if you don't have a gasket handy.

No reason the MLS should not seal as well or better than stock head gasket, particularly if you add hylomar. If it was me and the weep is minor, I'd live with it, big job to fix.

Modern German cars have a system built into the BMCs and CAN that turn on one of a set of random errors each 18 months for the life of the car to ensure you get rid of it and buy a brand new one just after warranty finishes.

yes, it is most likely a turbo timer. If not in the alarm, back in the day they were pretty common as an extra box plugged into the back of the key switch's wiring. Take off the plastic under the steering column, trace back the large wires from the back of the key switch, and see if they lead to a small electronic box. If so, they generally have 2 plugs (one male, one female) so you can just unplug both, move the box, and then just plug the remaining wires in the car back together to remove it.

33/34 sensors may fit physically in the dumps and have the right connectors (1x3 pin, 1x4 pin) but they won't necessarily behave properly with the 32 ECU as they may be a different chemistry (titania vs zirconia), I'm not sure if they are. The fact that 32 and 33 ECU is interchangeable probably means they will be OK

sorry, my point was that the o2 sensors you need match the ECU, not the engine. I may not be asking enough to understand the specifics, but if you have put the engine in a something, and need new o2 sensors, the model of engine doesn't matter. It's the ECU that needs matching sensors. So, if you are putting it in something original (pic suggests you put the half cut engine in an r32) and have the original ECU, that is the type of o2 sensor you need. If you have put the engine in something else, you need to identify the ECU's model, not the engine's. FWIW the fuel rail is 33/34 not 32 style, and as you said the CAS is not 32 style either