Duncan

LS1 might be cheaper but VK56 is a pretty nice engine The good folks at harrop do a suitable kit. And you wont be happy with an M35 after having had a good C34 for a while, just look at all those posts over the years. They are not the same animals at all.

There have been plenty of rota wheels broken with track use too. Street only....

Looks like 18/19 July, might not be cancelled. Round before in Grafton at long weekend looks like no chance.

Welcome Chris, make sure you head out to the Tamworth round of the state hillclimb champs, Kel and I should be there, and so should Neil (well he bloody better be since he lives there too)

Are you using factory scissor jack or a floor style jack? Factory scissor jack should be used on a point just behind the front wheels or just behind the rear wheels. There is a reinforced section there. To use a floor jack there you would need some sort of spacer like a rubber block so as not to squash the seam. With a floor jack, the rear diff is fine, so is any solid point on the front or rear subframe, particularly where they mount to the chassis. Front diff, front sump and radiator support are not strong enough. Front tow hooks are great too as you can generally get to them without affecting the front diff.

If you want the ECU to think the engine is turning when it isn't (eg to see if an injector clicks open and closed or a spark plug fires), remove the crank angle sensor (but leave it plugged in to the loom) turn the key to ON and turn the rear spindle of the crank angle sensor. ECU sees some RPM (probably pretty low) and does it's thing

As per the link, all R33 GTS25t are Type M. There was only a difference in R32 GTSt models. Front bar looks like standard series 1 with foglights to me (in good conition BTW) but I'm not a bodykit trainspotter. BTW not factory dash, so unlikely to be correct KLM. Plus, I like the stagea better anyway

Personally i get a specialist to do gearboxes, because the key point here is "50 different things are f**ked". Some problems would not be obvious to non-professionals. Obviously pulling apart and putting back together is just following a set of steps carefully, but there is no point doing all that and then realising you didn't see one or more issues.

Ahh, I incorrectly assumed front. I can't see a nut on that ball joint but it's obviously a crap place to get a pic. Taking the drive shaft out of the hub is only 1 nut away... Have you been able to separate the joint from the hub yet? Easier to do that with the nut still on, regardless of method you are using (ball joint separator vs bash the crap out of it because you aren't re-using it). Once it's separated undo (or cut off) the nut

RIght. Housing is R34 if it is marked OP6. The internals may not be factory though, you need to find and check the metal plate on the core.

Don't pull it apart yet! Its pretty easy to end up with fuel wash in the bores of a brand newly built motor, and it's unlikely to be ring gaps. Drop the oil and determine if it is fuelly first. In a brand new engine the rings need to bed to the bore. You didn't say, but hopefully the machine shop did hone the bores to put a good cross hatch finish on it to help the new rings bed. Either way, it takes some hard load running (not babying it for 5,000klm like your grandfather used to) to bed the rings in properly. Until the rings are bedded properly you will get some fuel in the oil. If the car is misfiring at this time the likelihood of fuel wash is about x1 million because there is more unburned fuel in the cylinder for longer. So....put good plugs in then run it hard for say 1,000klm. Spirited hills driving is great because you load it up at different rpm. If you only have freeways etc then at least run it in different gears and whatever different revs you can that are safe, and load it up hills (eg flat in 5th). Of course keep you ear out for pinging incase the tuner set those unusual load points properly. If there is a misfire you need to find and fix the cause first. Alternatively, take it back to the dyno and run it in there. Assuming the car is running OK they can do the run in much faster because the dyno lets them set the different load points and how long they want to stay there. Not much point doing a (dry) compression test until the rings are bedded. You could do the test again with a few ml of oil in each cylinder and see if that gives a different result; that would make it more likely rings are the issue.

Glad you added the last line. You need to find and fix the vacuum leak before worrying about the idle, the amount of air that makes it to the engine vs what the AFM thinks it is getting right at the start of the intake is critical to everything

Need to pic to give a meaningful response on options, but yes cutting it off is a reasonable choice. Assuming you are replacing the LCA and ball joint...

Well by eye the cam journals look OK which is good news. While you may have never overtorqued the bolts, you don't know what happened to it before you got it. It may well have had different cams at some stage over the last 30 years. That's why I'd replace all the bolts, OEM are fine if they are cheaper.

Oh, also, why would 1 bolt snap and was it the cause or effect of an issue. Best reason for a bolt to snap is that it was over torqued which means every other cam bolt is suspect. I'd replace the set, ARP do aftermarket that may be cheaper than Nissan (not sure, I've never checked). Alternatively, if there was an oil feed problem to the back that could seize and therefore break the cam. At least post up a pic of the journals under the broken cam.

Cam cap bolt is 13058-56E00. however....it's probably not that simple. #6 valves were closed when the pistons were going uppy downy. there is an oil feed all through there that will have shredded steel and aluminium in it, the cam's tunnel is probably damaged/worn etc etc I would chuck a cam in, do an oil and filter change and see what happens but I don't like your chances

Umm yes that makes the problem pretty obvious, you have a couple of fouled spark plugs ?

glad i mentioned, unfortunately there's no point looking at anything unless the plugs are good. ultimately if they can't fire because too fouled, fuel won't burn and you get mega rich smell and symptoms. you need to put good plugs in and try again, just use cheap coppers as they fire best and are cheapest to replace again if you have to

well, the all of those things point to horribly running rich, and assuming standard setup (or previously working aftermarket setup), the easiest way to get that is to have a reasonable sized air leak after the air flow meter and before the engine. I know you said you checked your intake piping but I'd pull each bit off and have a closer look to see if you can find a loose clamp, split intake pipe or some sort of crack somewhere. BTW, assuming you have changed or cleaned the plugs, you might need to do that often while trouble shooting

rb20e. with auto trans. in a 33 sedan. Man there were some aresholes in nissan's accounting department in the late 90s. Like Bob said, surely you just enjoy driving the 32 with manual rb20det and just put up with the interior being a couple of years older?

:spitsbeerout:

I think PFC is a good choice. Capable enough, cheap these days and benefit over both Haltech and Nistune is you can monitor things when required via the hand controller.

amayama. part numbers for r32 gtr from here: https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan/skyline-gt-r/8-coupe-right-r32-1989-1662/5/428

To be fair, the starter motor has been in the same place for 30 years now ?

I haven't, but I understand it's a valid way to go for a budget rebuild. The skid factory guys covered resurfacing a block (not head) with a stone