Duncan

#ruralyf The only way to get a delivery reliably is to go to the depot and pick it up. Most annoying is that the receiver never gets to choose the freight company, it is always what is cheap and convenient to the sender, even though the receiver pays for the "service"

It's unlikely (but not impossible) the ECU will be able to tell you much about why it stalls. When does it run OK, and when does it stall? does it ever run rough or misfire/hesitate? Is it better when cold or hot? Does it only happen when moving?

well, bolts are 01111-00051 washers 08915-1381A, nuts 08911-2081A. All seem to be available at amayama

Fitting F50 to the front is straightforward and has been done many times. They just need the correct adapter to space them properly to whatever disc you choose. With the rear, that is a lot tricker. Firstly, no real need to upgrade the rear brakes, they are pretty adequate from factory for pretty much any use. Secondly you need to work out a handbrake setup; the factory rear brakes apply the handbrake to a drum inside the rear disc, so using a front brake setup there will be missing all that. Thirdly, with the pretty large front brakes on the rear you will have big rear bias problems, and need a different master cylinder. And you need to machine the rear hub to locate the front caliper correctly. All way too much trouble for something that doesn't need changing in the first place....

pic helps! they are both ball joints and practically speaking you need a ball joint separator to deal with it like I mentioned at the end of my earlier post

265 will fit fine, it will depend on the offset of the wheel.

so, 2 problems: 1. bolt where the lower control arm joins the hub is seized? 2. you can't remove the driveshaft from the hub, even though you've removed the nut etc? For 1 the answer is pretty much you need a longer lever. Either a bigger breaker bar, a pair of spanners hooked on each other for extra leverage or even something like a jack handle or long piece of pipe over the breaker bar. Make sure everything is really stable on jack stands first. Also, a bit of heat where the nut meets the bolt eg a blow torch can really help, also sometimes putting a socket on the nut, and then giving it a couple of good whacks with a heavy hammer can unstick it. Basically, with enough leverage either the nut will come undone or the bolt will break, either way it is off. If you can't get there for some reason, cut the bolt with an angle grinder. For 2, you need to put the nut back on about 80% so that it is just above level with the end of the dravishaft, then hit it with a heavy hammer until it starts moving. If you hit it without a nut on and it is a bit tight (sounds like it is), you are likely to wreck the threads on the end of the driveshaft which would require repair before you can use it again. Once it is freed up you obviously need to remove the nut to slide the driveshaft out full. Depending where you are up to in the job, you may also have trouble ahead with removing the steering/hicas arm ball joint. The best thing for these, assuming you need to reuse the ball joint, is the scissor type, not fork type of ball joint separator

Anyway, vibration at speed (regardless of revs) is something between the gearbox and the road. Tyres are by far the most likely (I know you've said you've had them checked, but maybe see if you can borrow a different set of wheels/tyres and try again).

Just stick to the speed limit?

I'm assuming you intend to remove the original dash then? If not (I haven't) the orginal dash provides the speed signal to ECU then to IQ3 I can't answer the speedo drive question for sure. I'm surprised the 32 and 33 ones are different as per the first post.

I'm not sure of the specifics of the post 95 rule, but there are plenty of aftermarket ECUs that are OBD2 compliant. So unless you are unable to change the ECU, something like a Haltech plug in will get you there about $38,000 cheaper.

Nope, no benefit for motorsport. In road use you could consider it helpful that the water helps bring oil up to temps better but in motorsport you would always warm the engine before racing anyway. On the downside it leaves your oil filter in a difficult position, can fail, and is impossible to clean out if you ever spin a bearing. I would be adding a remote oil filter relocator in it's place.

no, I'd almost certainly go something more modern. Be interested to see what you think of what you pick. the good news is pretty much everything is CAN compatible these days, in the olden days you had to decide if the ECU or the dash got the output of a particular sender and wire it in. so as long as whatever dash you buy supports your ECU, choices are a lot more open now. BTW for street use you need to be a bit careful with warning lights, indicators, high beam all that sort of stuff being included if you are replacing not adding to, the stock dash. Many cars run stock + aftermarket dash to avoid the problem.

I went racepack because haltech. But that was a few years back and it looks very dated compared to more modern units. The AIM one looks better to me Also have a look at Racepack, they make some serious dashes and I'm sure there are other good options out there. Motec make good dashes but comparatively expensive, also Stack are well established/proven. Key requirement is haltech CAN support to ease wiring it up, next most important would be quality/usability of the analysis software and quality GPS if you are racing.

So 2 problems; still breathing way too much oil, and very clunky? I think the key test was point 3. A diff shop should immediately if there has been some issue with clearances too tight or loose causing binding/overheating/whatever, but they say it is as new. So basically that covers off about 99% of internet mechanic opinions about it being a diff issue. Re the breathing oil, from the posts above it looks like that settled down after first track day, is it still a problem? If so I can only suggest extending the diff breather. Attach some hose to the breather fitting and run through a loop or 2 of hose to one of those tiny air filters, up high in the boot somewhere (considering what is underneath it if it does actually leak of course!). This might prevent a lot of leaking because it takes a lot of froth to push up, around a loop, and out a breather so the oil generally drains back down again once it all settles down. Re the diff being clunky...without being too simplistic that is either inside or outside the diff. Inside you can pretty much rule out a clearance issue assuming the diff shop is competent, but it could still be a really tight centre. Outside, every point between the flywheel and the tyre has potential slop, it is more than simply bushes. Also check cv/shafts, unis in tailshaft, even subframe and engine mounts. But the key test with driveline clunks is whether it clunks on and off the power in a straight line (slop somewhere) and clunks because the inside wheel is jumping in turns (tight diff). On and off the power at slow speed in a straight line will help diagnose which it is

In my experience, the issue with Shannons was not so much the premiums as it was trying to to get claims paid. To me that kind of undermined the deal where I pay for insurance, and they pay back if something crappy happens. Anyway, Lumley Special Vehicles is another option, that's who we're with now. Handy for a multi skyline house they offer discounts for laid up/restoration, limited klm (which I guess club would fall under) and a nice idea called "stable" where you can have multiple cars but a limited number of drivers, acknowledging that say 2 people can't drive 5 cars at once.

Hey Jimbo, good to hear from you. Obviously a lot of the day to day chat has moved from SAU but there is still a whore thread in NSW members. Sadly we had a pretty big impromptu reuion about a month ago when Nick passed Seems to be lots still happening with the club, I've moved out of Sydney so it's a bit hard to attend things, but there is something every month and a big gtr anniversary meet just last week

Or an evo that just finished the Bathurst 6 hours the week before.....funny how often race cars have synchro issues

Pretty normal to have accelerator lower than brake, although the brake and clutch pedal height are somewhat adjustable by lengthening the rod into the master cylinder. Generally heal/toeing is more a motorsport technique, and if you are racing and on the brakes, you better be on them hard For daily driving it's easier on the box/synchros to shift slower and let the revs match while in neutral. Unless you are having fun of course

Well, it's off this topic, but maybe consider starting a build thread here. I've never seen a mark3 or later capri in Oz so interesting find. Any r200 diff centre should be OK for 500hp street use unless you mean street burnout comps. The bigger issue for street use is the tighter ones are really nasty skipping in tight turns which makes them a PITA for street use.

84 capri eh....I think you might not be from round here....you should see what we called a capri in '86...I''m reasonably confident you are not putting an r200 in that... RE the stub axles, I've only done it once years ago but pretty sure they just popped with a pair of pry bars, so must just be a circlip inside holding them in. You'll need to remove from both diffs to check they are interchangeable unless someone here already knows as number of splines, number (and spacing) of bolt holes and internal length can be different....

seems easiest to me, assuming you don't want to take the hats off them and check c+p interchangeability BTW, what's it going in? Big job to fit one of these rear ends to something

All I'm saying....is I've known you for probably 10 years, and you have even less ability to stop yourself sliding down the slippery slope of modification than me....and I modified a bloody Leaf! And a Titan. And a Cima. And a Stagea. And a Cube. And even a bloody March Super Turbo. In fact, the stagea has been off the road for a year next week waiting for a bit more go... I know your sickness too well.

....I think the basic issue here is that unfortunately your starting point for your swap is problematic (an a-lsd car). It may even have been cheaper to buy for exactly this reason. So you want to use the subframe, control arms, hubs etc from the r33 (because you already have them) which means the driveshaft to driveshaft total width needs to be r33. I understand the s15 diff with your current driveshafts won't do that (requires different stub axles and/or driveshaft lengths). Interestingly, you might be able to find an example of someone who has put an s15 diff into an r33 because S15 have a helical/quaife type centre and not a mechanical one which can be considered superior. A definite answer there will tell you what missing parts you need to get the s15 diff into the r33 setup. Also double check the rear hat mountings as there are some variations there too. Alternatively, you can still pull the rear hat off both diffs and just find out if the c+p will swap across. I agree with GTSBoy this is unlikely but it is free and immediate to find out....Unfortunately even the c+p do fit, you may not be able to swap the a-lsd centre for a mechanical one which i assume is also your intention. It's not just that the a-lsd centre would be hard to replace, you also have to deal with the electronic control system and it's inputs to get it working in your swap. Easiest but least expensive way out is to buy a regular r33 gtst diff and driveshaft set, or even a complete rear subframe. This way you get a definite solution but you'll end up with a lot of current stuff unused.

sounds wierd....but i reckon you're making a mistake I'll just leave this here history never repeats, I tell myself...