Duncan

sounds wierd....but i reckon you're making a mistake I'll just leave this here history never repeats, I tell myself...

well...while I'm also interested to confirm what exactly this is to understand the unusual items better....in the end the real question for you is still whether the crown wheel and pinion can be swapped over. Externally, the pinion looks the same (they don't always, r33 gtst normally has an abs sender on the pinion, and the older "long nose" r200 pinions won't fit either) but you need to pull the centre out of each and find out if the crown wheel will physically fit. My guess is that this is a A-LSD R200 (google search pics look to have the same flanges) and the crown/pinion will work for you, but the casing, stub axles and centre are no use except for someone who wants to keep or repair an A-LSD car. At the time they were a good concept, but in practice vlsd and mechancial lsd were simpler and cheaper (vlsd) or as effective (mechanical) so not many of these were sold.

funny, at this time of year I'd rather have a heater than an oil cooler, but each to their own. basically, yes. Just plug or bypass whatever you need. Make sure the turbo and oil cooler still have water in and out from the same place and you'll be fine.

hmm good point, i seem to remember vlsd was an option on r33 gtst as well as vspec GTRs. Should look at the pics before posting

Yep, just swap across the crown and pinion, make sure backlash is OK and Robert is your father's brother.

Sorry I just re-read my post (and I will edit it now for future readers). late 32 and 33 is pull, not push, I said push twice above To be clear, since your slave cylinder rod points backwards, it is a push style clutch, which is the early 32 style. Which is probably better news, particularly for cost and range of replacment clutches

There are really only 2 differences to be aware of with the 32/33 boxes. Push vs Pull clutch. Some late 32 and all 33 clutches are pull style, other 32 are push style. You can tell which by looking under the car, if the slave cylinder rod points towards the rear of the car it is a push style Series 3 R33 vs all others. There were changes to bearings and synchos in the last series of R33 gearboxes to improved strength. You can't tell identify that without a tear down

Hi Jeff, I have to say I don't understand your question.....but no...this pic doesn't help identify the gearbox in any way. Whatever that sticker is, it's not a nissan part #

wonder whatever happened to this car? This build will be old enough to vote by the time it's finished

My opinion only....a properly repaired car is no issue, particularly if there is no rust at the repair points. Yes, more fussy people might see differences in panel straightness but I think you need to be practical about a 20 year old buy

lol the funny thing is, someone went to the trouble of putting it on and tensioning it. Perhaps it did actually work (a little, at first) You just need the right belt and that will be sorted, the globes, yes just buy some D2Rs (more recent ones are compatible so no issue there) Re the clunk....best to get a mechanic to look at it. There are about a million (OK, 10) places between the transmission and the tyre that could clunk, no point just guess it is a tailshaft.

I used to run 265/35/18 on 18x10 0n my gtst, but I don't know what offset they were, and I bet people have fit bigger back there....

I've not noticed a practical difference, and I've been using OEM in one car and poly in another for years. I went poly when I replaced them due to price and availability not concerns about durability or life.

Fair enough and thanks for saying. My experience is with Stagea W34 not Skyline R34. They run fine with manual computers and auto trans but it sounds like there are differences in later model/R34. Also, this suggests the Stagea ECU he has will not do the job with the later R34 auto trans for the same reason.

Nistune in the new ECU will resolve my point 3 above, but it won't correct any physical wiring differences. On the other hand, if you can nistune your original ECU than both 1 and 3 are covered off.

Wiring sounds exactly right to me. Right size cable, right size relay (larger than needed), right size fuse (smaller than cable max), right order of wiring. I'd replace the pump next, not the wiring (unless it is damaged again), I think it is drawing way too many amps. Before you do one possible test is to check the amps being drawn by the pump (you put the multimeter in line with the positive or negative) but check the multimeter can support up to 20amps, I think a lot are limited to 10.

So, in summary, there is a fair bit more work before this will run OK. Whoever gave you the idea that you could bolt on the turbo, injectors and ECU and it would run skipped a few steps. 1. One way or another you need to match the ECU wiring to the ECU. You need the pin outs for both ECUs (old and new) and compare every difference. You either need to cut and rejoin your current loom at the ECU to match the new pins, or you need the ECU loom that matches your ECU, and then change a few of it's connections at the other end where they are different (and they will be). You may need help from someone who has done this before if that doesn't make sense 2. There are at least a few mechanical/electrical differences to deal with. I'm not familiar with this particular swap but the guys mentioned the boost sensor, I would expect there is also a difference with fuel pressure regulator needing to be a turbo version and have a boost input, some sort of boost controller, fuel pump is probably different, air flow meter might be different as well? 3. The ECU you have may still not run the DE engine well due to differences in cam, VCT and compression. You will probably need a nistune at a minimum to get in running well. Since it is a manual ECU it won't talk to the auto; it will work but it won't give smooth shifts because the trans can't tell the engine it is changing gears and to reduce power (timing) momentarily There is still a big job ahead to get it running properly, you've gone down a difficult path. Realistically you need to find some other way to get to work for a few weeks...

according to engineering toolbox (I'm sure there are other sources too) 8WG over 6m length can carry max 25amp at 12v.https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html According to DW, the pump draws up to 18amps so it is close but should not be close enough to cause trouble. https://www.deatschwerks.com/sites/www.deatschwerks.com/files/DATA/DW300 Tech Sheet.pdf What is the route and distance from the battery to the pump for the +, and what size fuse is in it? And where in that run did the cable melt? And what is the route for - as well?

You don't want to rebuild it because you are spending $1,400 on timing belt etc. Cheap and dirty will cost $5k, basic rebuild $10k and of course the sky is the limit depending on what you want to change. Rebuild means labour for engine in and out, then disassembly, cleaning, measuring, new gaskets, head and rod bolts. Machining, Measuring, rings and bearings. Yes you can save on that, particularly if you can do most of the labour, and you can decide how much you want to reuse, but it will still be 3-10x what you are already spending. BTW are you sure the oil leak is from the head/block and not the cam seals? It is much more common there. If you really wanted to deal with that, head off while the timing belt is off is an option, but it sounds like that may have been done before, and obviously not 100% successfully if it is leaking there (suggests head or block may not be flat...) BTW, if you are doing timing belt, always change the idler and tensioner stud/bolt, and consider doing the water pump, cam and oil pump seals while you are there.

And...if it's always done it, it may well be a problem with the pump, not your wiring.

Would need pics of exactly where it is starting to slide out. Normally if the wiper blades are in the right way up there is a little catch at the end of the blade that holds into the wiper arm

still need a little more information. how much accelerator (100%?), and for how long? Is it initially OK when you floor the throttle? Does it start to pop or hesitate, and if so at what revs?

Oh, and definitely not normal. The oil and smoke systems inside RBs are sealed, they should never come out.

Almost certainly a cam seal leak. There are head oil returns near there but the head gasket seals them

Love it (both the colour, and that it was your third ) They also came in a very light green and a two tone light green....but that is the green I meant. And I know I sound indecisive, but I also love that series 2 yellow. It is so understated for a family car, kind of gives away the stagea secret....