Duncan

yep understood, there is a lot of good wiring info in that doc including ECU pinout (slightly different to 32/33) and MFD wiring which was very helpful. No idea what it's source was because generally english manuals are only available if the car was officially sold in an english speaking country like the R32 in Aus. Anyway, yes, the exploded diagrams, procedures and torque specs from the r32 manual will be fine for r34 assembly

interesting conversion. probably goes way better than my td42 one but I suspect an rb25 will still struggle moving all that weight. surely it is 4wd....if the original engine was td28 it is likely all the original patrol 4wd stuff bolted right up.

Depending on what exactly you need to do, engine wise the 32gtr manual will be fine. mechanically they are same/same, and the electrical differences are minor.

I was going to say that WD9E-R34AJ0 is not a valid part number, but hey when I googled it I found this: https://netred.se/fakethinkpad/documents/R34_servicesupplement_OCR.pdf

That's what I assumed too There is an awesome green, manual stagea in sydney that would probably be for sale soon. Well looked after, low klm car in good condition.

sure....if you're in no rush and willing to take the risk that internet advice has no value....post em up I don't know about the rb25 intake manifold gaskets, and in any case there is an upper and lower half so pics may be required. AAV will have a gasket and matching mating surface on the manifold. If the gasket is in good condition (ie flat an unbroken), just re-use it. Otherwise hit kudos or similar to buy one but you will need to remove the old gasket and clean both surfaces well (brake cleaner, razor blade or even scotch brite pad manually or on a air or power tool). New gasket here: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/valve-gasket-suit-nissan-skyline-gts25-gts25-rb25de-rb25det-p-1200.html Rocker cover gaskets can be reused if they still have a bit of flexibility. If they are cracked on super hard replace. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/camshaft-cover-seal-suit-nissan-skyline-gts25-gts25-gts25-p-207.html . Some people use a VERY thin bead of silicone in rocker covers but if the gaskets are OK and covers are bolted down properly they won't leak. You do need to use silicone on the half moon seals at the rear of the cam, and those half moon seals are more likely to need replacement as they can rip when you remove them.

The only way that will work is to get someone to help out at your place for a few days, since you won't be able to collect everything that came off, and it is a disaster job for a workshop.... There must be someone with some experience in Sydney who needs a day or 2 overtime on the weekend....

nasty!

m10x1.5 x about 40mm long on a GTR, I bet they are the same since they bolt into the gearbox

slippers very appropriate for this time of year. sure sounds like you have an air leak, and probably in the booster itself. In the engine bay there is an air line from the rear of the plenum, through a 1 way valve, into a cannister and then into the brake booster. Check each of those lines for splits and make sure the 1 way valve is working (ie, you can blow air through from the engine side, but not the cannister side). But I think most likely the booster has a leak. You can replace with second hand or reconditioned one.

a copy of the english r32 manual is here among other places: http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/gtr_32_service_manual.pdf it is very common for earthing problems to create voltage issues. in particular, if the subframe has ever been out or dropped the earth strap the attessa is often forgotten. And I agree you are likely to have a nitrogen cannister problem (very common by now), and perhaps a wiring issue at the g sensor, or a failed sensor. Like BK said that "indicator" on the sensor is not a guarantee, it is literally just a stick on g force/shock sensor

It's also worth noting -5 is larger than -9 and -7 which is not obvious without the full part number. -5 is about as big as most people would go for twin low mount turbos on an rb26 as they are getting laggy.

I've collected pretty much every manual I've seen float past over the years, and don't have a general R32 one, only 32 GTR in english and the r33 which overs rb20 in japanese

I just meant, unplug the sensor altogether, under the navigator seat.

That temperature sensor is designed to tell you if the cat has failed and is blocked, it simply turns on a warning light on the dash if the exhaust is too hot. Everyone just disconnects it which is probably why there is nowhere to attach it to the new exhaust. The r34 GTR does have a separate exhaust sensor in the dump pipes for dash display

Location in either the thread or your profile might help?

Agreed...noisy strut tops are one thing but that is bumping around/wearing. It could be the spring on the shock body, so check for wear marks particularly on the threaded section of the shock. Assuming all 4 shocks look like the pic, it is unlikely to be the spring rattling because the helper springs seem to be long enough to give it a little preload. But most likely that is a strut top knocking, and while that's not exactly dangerous it will be annoying and wear way quicker than it should.

OK, update to that. With a change in web hosting the manual is now available here. http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/StageaServiceManual.pdf 353Mb, 3236 pages of japanese characters and (luckily) diagrams....

Is the noise more apparent when cold? A tapping that increases with revs and is louder when cold in a gtr can be a spun big end bearing. they can be surprisingly quiet at first... Potentially anything else on the front of the engine so you could run it for a minute or 2 with the belts off and see if that stops the noise The valvetrain and injectors are always pretty noisy, and as GTSBoy said generally never need servicing, unlikely to be the issue.

All the factory torque settings are in the workshop manual. Even if aftermarket, if you are using the same sized bolts eg M10 as factory you should be fine with these settings http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/gtr_32_service_manual.pdf

Personal attacks, negative posts about businesses (including childish name calling) and off topic posts (this is a turbo, not ECU thread) removed. It's not that hard to keep a discussion civil. Further such posts will lead to warnings and bannings

amazing turn out today, well done to everyone that was able to make it. Obviously a sad day but I think it went well and it was great to be able to say goodbye to Nick

Hope you can make in Joel, and anyone else that can too See you there.

I don't know them, but at $20k for a setup you should consider the hollinger sequential as well. Tried and tested local option. BTW, you can break any gearbox if you try hard enough. Other than correct installation in these custom setups, maintenance is totally different in a race box (you need to tear down and inspect regularly) and how you shift will be a major factor in time between failures

Don't know what that attachment is meant to be....but it didn't work....