Duncan

OK, so first up I'm no auto electrician, and you should probably ask one. My understanding is the alternator post should have the same voltage as the battery, they are directly connected by reasonably heavy gauge wire. Further, the alternator uses one of the input wires to check the battery voltage as a reference for charging. If it is seeing way less than the actual battery voltage it would make sense for it to be trying to overcharge. And in any case, whatever it's doing is not making it to the battery since the voltage there doesn't change with the car running. From my understanding....could be alternator, more likely to be an alternator wiring issue. Keep in mind the earth is key to seeing the correct voltage so a bad earth could also be the issue, not just a problem on the positive side.

Page EL-2 (page 752 of the scanned version) of the r32 gtr workshop manual has instructions. I can post the excerpt if you can't find the whole manual (it is probably posted in a billion places on SAU)

OK, so first up I'm no auto electrician, and you should probably ask one. My understanding is the alternator post should have the same voltage as the battery, they are directly connected by reasonably heavy gauge wire. Further, the alternator uses one of the input wires to check the battery voltage as a reference for charging. If it is seeing way less than the actual battery voltage it would make sense for it to be trying to overcharge. And in any case, whatever it's doing is not making it to the battery since the voltage there doesn't change with the car running. From my understanding....could be alternator, more likely to be an alternator wiring issue. Keep in mind the earth is key to seeing the correct voltage so a bad earth could also be the issue, not just a problem on the positive side.

These are beautiful cars, and I wish I had got mine in white with sunroof, not black without. Mine has been perfect too, good luck with sale.

It will be a bit tricky to check, but step 2 after checking voltage at the battery while running needs to be checking voltage at the alternator (post on the rear while running). BTW when troubleshooting never rule out something obvious (wiring harness) because it looks new. Could be installation issue, manufacturing issue or even damaged in some way since installation.

Abusive posts from newly registered member removed. If you have an opinion to share, do so without personal attacks.

All good, it's still active.....link sent

Just want to check because you didn't mention specifically. The most important coolant bleed on the gtr is above the plenum next to the fuel rail. With that open and a funnel in place you should get nothing but coolant out the bleed.

moved to general maintenance. and.....have you checked everything since the drive? all plugs tight, all coil packs securely bolted down, all coil pack loom plugged in OK? And the coil pack earth if you undid it?

here's the thread where Bob reposted that last and the thread that came from

BTW healthy alternator should be charging the battery at something around 13.8v so 12 is not right. Noting the standard gauge is hard to read properly. If you have a multimeter check the voltage across the battery when the car is running.

That is very likely to be the issue if the main battery earth is only connected to the engine. It should go to the chassis first just near the battery (above hicas pump if you still have it), just an m6 thread that you put a bolt in. Let me know if you can't find it, I'll try and get a pic although my setup is a little non standard.

Looks like she's l running a bit hot (noting it may well have been a hot day there...) That movement in the gauges must be a minor electrical issue.....either a bad (common) earth, or gauge power circuit, or even battery terminals. I haven't seen it before but I wouldn't be worried. Does the volt gauge work (and, does it move when you put your foot on the brake?)

yeah good question Mark....so what is happening with this Matt?

Hi Andrew, what is the target use for the car? Clean road car and spirited driving? Or something more specialist. If the former, and noting you are going to the effort of rotisserie, replace every ball joint, rod end and bush with factory or aftermarket items. New, factory style is fine for that sort of use but if you want improvements then caster rods, front upper control arms and hicas lock out are the main things. If you are going MCA for shocks they will recommend springs to match (generally quite heavy) and so you would either use stock or light upgrade sway bars. If it's for drag, drift, circuit race or rally they are all more specialist discussions.

well, at least they are all the right car!

(congrats BTW!) I don't know a 32 gtst for sale, probably even those are starting to go up instead of down in price these days unless they have been thrashed in between. A wanted to buy thread may still get different sellers to other sites, but the state and social parts of the forum are pretty quiet these days

Still trying to work out if you are planning to change the married and kids status, or the car projects...

Ahh that will make it a bit trickier. Not sure about the pathfinder option, here we generally use rb30 skyline or patrol as the cheap but compatible replacement. The good news is it only has to fit physically so if you take yours off you should be able to compare. Did you flush it out thoroughly, rebleed everything properly and do a leak test? Chasing and changing parts is doing the hard things first.

Hey Brendan.....hope life's been treating you well. Got any projects on the go these days? Not a lot of any-siders around here any more! We moved so far south west we fell out of Sydney altogether (because sheds)

Agreed....it should be on the manifold (post throttle), not plenum (pre throttle)! Been too long since I've run with one attached. Either way it is not clear to me how it could read higher than atmo unless the problem was electrical not mechanical

Well firstly, congrats on picking up the new car! 91 is an unusual year, was it Australian delivered? As for the overheating, unfortunately there are a lot of potential reasons and not enough info to really guess. If it overheats when stationary (unusual on these) it suggests some problem with the viscous coupling on the fan, these wear out but generally seize to be on all the time If it overheats based on time or load when driving there are a lot of things to check and you may want a mechanic to do them -air lock somewhere from coolant not being bled properly. rebleed the system including having the heater on full and opening the bleed on the intake manifold near the injectors, and using some sort of bleeding funnel. If the car had been serviced by someone who wasn't careful this is the most likely issue. -thermostat not opening, this will make it overheat pretty quickly but is an easy fix -leak in the system. run a pressure test and make sure there is no issue. another symptom here will be coolant loss. Leak could be in the radiator, hoses, heater core, radiator cap not holding pressure. Potentially and expensively but unlikely, it could also be a head gasket or block crack. The water pump itself can't fail to pump as it is belt driven from the fan/water pump/alternator belt. That should be obvious if missing....when water pumps fail they leak from the seals

That is a bit strange, because that just comes from the MAP sensor on the firewall near the brake master cylinder. Does it work OK when you start to hit boost (ie, does it match the greddy gauge when you are driving)? I'd start with swapping the MAP sensor for another one to see if it has failed somehow, otherwise there may be some issue in the wiring. The air source is unlikely to be the issue since it is reading high, but you can check the air line is connected to the back of the plenum and has no cracks or splits

Then personally I'd take the chance and run it.

Depends on how big a problem it is for you if the engine fails. If it fails, you have written confirmation from the engine builder that this wouldn't cause an issue, ie their problem to fix. Depending on their attitude they might do the right thing no problems and fix it, or you might have to fight which can be expensive. Alternatively, if you are pushing it hard and can't accept anything less than perfect, you need to bore it out another .5mm. But that would be at your cost as you provided the block which had pitting that was uncovered during machining, and you will need new pistons and rings as well. Expensive but you get piece of mind. I'd have to say, I wouldn't be happy that the shop didn't tell me about the problem (either because they didn't see it or because they didn't want to pass on bad news) before it left so I could decide what to do.