Duncan

Exactly what I would do too, assuming its's also not too far (or if it is, regular stop and looks). But I'm no engineer or NZ road law expert

impossible to tell without pics of the ute as well (OK, I just like old dattos :))

+1, silicone or exhaust cement. just a dab though.

It's definitely a fluid line of some sort. If the brakes work and you didn't chance the clutch line to bypass the damper or something, then it is a coolant line. Did you change any of those or modify the system at all (you said it didn't leak so it's not "missing", it would be immediately pissing out everywhere). There are coolant lines into and out of the turbos, they run around the rear of the engine and under the inlet manifold. It's possible it is an air/boost line for the turbo boost/wastegate control but I didn't think any of them had flare fittings, I think they are all push on.

what happens if you put your foot on the brakes? or clutch?

BTW, if it wasn't done with the timing belt, also change the stud and bolt for the timing belt idler and tensioner while it's all apart. $10 of parts for piece of mind.

So....I guess that makes the point that people should always do the water pump when they do the timing belt. Costs 300 more, but saves having to do the job twice. (sorry I know that is no help to you now, but maybe one day someone will search, find this thread, and go, hey, why don't I take that advice!)

great to see you getting plenty of racing laps in, it's great fun, isn't it with the vibration, a common cause is pick up on the tyre. If you can, rotate them or change them and see if the problem moves or goes away. It's amazing how bad a small lump of rubber can feel... Maybe Neil should post up about the wheel (not) falling off....

Also, it's not a simple DIY to change, depending on tools and experience you probably want a workshop to do it as removing the old bush can be tricky

You just (carefully!) lever the end off the ball, it has a sort of spring inside.

That's a big claim that 90% of people who don't buy one brand have to replace them. 100% of the cars (yes, 2) I've plumbed with AN fittings (we used phenix, http://www.phenixindustries.com.au/, as they were much better priced than speedflow) have been reliable and leak free in race use. From what I can see the biggest issue with these fittings is likely to be assembly error, not failure or design of the original part.

you should have a link in your email now

or holesaw then recipro saw. Just need to careful of the subframe, it's hard to tell when you are through. I've done burning too, it works.

Hi realor, as you have, please report the post and we will tidy it up. we don't allow posters to edit after the first 30min as there was some trouble with scammer trading in the past.

Do you mean, an aftermarket turbo from a twin rb26 setup? All standard turbos had ceramic wheels, only the N1 spec ones were steel. BTW, well done getting a mini to go that quick!

Yeah they better be bloody perfect since that was the thing that started this whole refresh. Re tyres, there are some restrictions. When I'm running 18x10s I'm not on control tyres but there are still only a couple of brands that are worth running on unless you want to come last. According to websites (haven't had a chance to call yet, other sizes may be available....): Hankook: 285/30R18, 631mm or 295/30R18, 637mm Yokohama: 295/30R18 633mm, 295/35R18, 664mm. Dunlop: 285/30R18, 635mm Interestingly when I measured the diameter of the 295/35R18 yokos, I got 655mm against a listed size of 664mm. Also measured a set of dunlop DZ03G that I have in 235/45R17 which are meant to be 644mm but measure up as 630mm...so as usual the manufacturer listed specs and the ruler don't match with tyres sizes The other thing of course is buying brand new tyres to find out they don't fit is a bloody expensive way to test. The ones I tried above were ex superlap softs, used but not very much, and perfect for hillclimbs so it's a shame they have to go...

The other thing I need was trial fit the big wheels and tyres to make sure there are no problems. Long time back I bought some 18x9.5 +12 volks in a set of 6 to put on the car (oh look, still for sale in my sig! retro!). But with my alignment that offsite was not right so I bought some BC racing wheels in 18x10 + 22 from Just Jap. I've put 295/25/18 A050s on them for test fitting. So, up on the quickjack and out with the shocks and springs front and rear. Bolt the wheels on and jack up under the wheel to check the whole range of movement from full droop to fully compressed. At the rear, fit is perfect. These are big wheels and tyres and they fit great. Same at the front. At full left and full right lock the fit is perfect from full droop to fully compressed. Offset +22 is spot on a a GTR with 10" rims The only minor issue that the wheel almost misses the front bumper at straight ahead. It's kind of a shame that an almost miss is a hit. The tyres are just too tall. I'll see if the alignment shop can pull it back a bit without stuffing the settings totally, and if not I'll try again with lower tyres 295/30 or even smaller if I can find them in usable brands. Bit of a pain really.

OK, couple of updates. After more stuffing around, it was the injectors that were stopping it running. There had been some water in the lines somehow and they corroded a little sitting there 2 years. Swapped them out for some good ones (after trying a million other things) and she started up fine. So the good news is it is running and almost ready for a tune. I also did the final torquing on the driveshafts since it was on the ground, and also the balljoints once they had a chance to settle. I do need to fix 3 minor wiring things then off for a tune.

Yeah just the usual tapered type.

32 and 33 gtr have the same size hub ring, so no space is required to run 33 gtr wheels on a 32 gtr. 66mm (or maybe 66.1)

Please keep all discussions respectful, do not make personal attacks, and if anyone believes these forum rules are not being followed please report the posts.

Nothing wrong with Mantic clutches, as long as it's the right one for your needs. What power/mods do you have on the car, and what specifically is your concern with the exedy? Sprung centre clutches will always engage more smoothly, and while having fewer pucks increases their ability to hold more power they can get shuddery and jerky as a result. Also, the guys at Mantic know their stuff and do R&D locally, so give them a call if you have questions. They aren't just a website listing like a lot of brands these days....

Although it's not exactly Pike's peak, the most important track in Australia is about 850m at the top. People running MAP sensor need to be careful with their tune. But from a power point of view, we all just accept that there is less air to suck in up there and everyone makes less power. I'm not sure about the logic that you should try and fix the power output by pushing the setup harder; if it can take more at the top of the hill why can't it take more at the bottom as well? Also, there is the practical issue on that track that power is most useful to get you up the hill, not to take you across the top or even back down to an extent.

Firstly this has been moved from for sale to a more appropriate section. Second, I'm not really sure what the question is, or your intended action based on the response, but page EN-229 of the GTR workshop manual talks about the knock sensors and how they work. One thing you should be aware is they do not detect knock, just a sound that is likely to be knock

lol that should get you to the shops OK!