Duncan

yeah that's why I mentioned the synchros. the bearings in these boxes are generally pretty good with only front input shaft bearing sometimes needing replacement. Once you strip it down you will probably find the bearings are OK to reuse, and expensive and hard to find if you want to do it for preventative maintenance.

In addition to GTSBoy's advice, there were running changes during the r33 gearboxes (and your late 32) so you will need to be careful as some parts are replacements and some are different. eg, I know there is some difference in the strength of the selector clips in the series 3 (last) R33 boxes. Unfortunately the best gearbox shop for skylines appears to be gone, and I haven't had to find another place since. For what it's worth, as well as bearings, you are likely to need new synchros by now, and there were also changes in those over the years. I don't know enough to give specific advice.

I can surely say your pics are a pull clutch if that helps!

Awesome choice. We've had a z24 d21 navara for about 20 years, only 2wd though. Did a full rebuild on it (engine, box, diff, bushes, suspension etc) about 5 years back for it's 400,000klm birthday and has been running faultlessly since goods news is parts are easy and cheap compared to imports. and you'll save a bit since it already seems to have usable tyres fitted, that makes a big difference to traction on rough stuff

if not Nissan you are probably out of luck. Look up the part numbers then order through amayama or similar

Sorry fatz. Thread closed as there is no sign of any on topic posts.

you didn't mention which skyline or put it in your profile which makes answering more challenging... but, in addition to the factory rocker cover gasket for your model, you should change the half moon seals that sit behind the cam at the same time. some people recommend a thin bead of silicone gasket to seal the rocker covers but I have never needed that (except on the half moon seals where the factory workshop manual says it should be used). also pay attention to the screws that hold the covers down. They have rubber bushes on each which have almost certainly perished by now and may well be the main problem (because the screws won't be holding the covers down properly). You can also buy these for a couple of dollars each, or cut 3mm lengths from garden hose for the ghetto option.

I owe fatz....

Mark....you were alive in the 70s.....

really! I'm trying that next time the opportunity comes up No doubt it will

Hope the price took into account the problem mate. If you want to replace the rings you need to at least hone the cylinder. To hone the cylinder you need the piston and rod out. To take the piston and rod out you need the head off, or may be the crank out To take the crank out you need to undo the rear main oil seal and oil pump bolts, and remove the sump To remove the rear main oil seal you need to remove the gearbox. And clutch. And flywheel. To remove the oil pump you need to remove the timing belt gear. And timing belt. And timing belt cover. And the radiator. To remove the sump....well....don't know. Probably front subframe out which means brakes off, steering shaft disconnected, ABS unplugged, top shock bolts and upper control arm bolt, power steering lines off, exhaust dump pipe off. We could do this list all day. Basically you have a repair that is going to cost a minimum 5 grand to do at a shop if they do minimal work. If at all possible you should spend about twice and rebuild the whole motor including new seals and gaskets, rings, bearings, machining, oil and water pump, head reco. You should consider boring out the block and putting in forged pistons at the same time. You have one of the best performance cars ever made, it would be a shame to have an engine that is not right.

Ha! looks like Alan is pushing hard in that pic ? Sounds like a good project. There is actually a fair bit of information on these forums and a couple of the Grp A owners have been active on here at times. One thread is here (particularly page ? but there are others : Please check further but there were something like 5 cars built for the factory and other teams like GIO. At least one of the cars spent some time in Malaysia in a different spec before coming home. Also I believe one of them was written off after the adelaide roll over but I guess you are looking for vins, not the cars' locations. The chassis used were just off the production line, nothing special as they started, so they will just have standard japanese vins. They were not all pulled at the same time so they won't be consecutive.

odd if it has been off recently....rb26 balancer bolt is 446-466nm according to factory manual and they get undone OK

sounds like it might be seized pretty bad then....the starter makes plenty of torque. A shorter breaker bar is ok for the starter trick because you don't need to put leverage on it. alternatively, try a "power bar". no, not a type of protein bar. a thin you hit with a hammer to make balancer bolts come undone. mine is an SP

since everyone is bumping their build threads today......that reminds me I finished off all the engine bay, underside, inner guard etc wiring on the weekend. Even worked out why the Nav side power window wasn't working (yes, the motor wasn't plugged in....). It's all back to about 3 pages ago where it cranks perfect but does not start, just more colourful and straighter.

classic. how is that chassis not written off...And you are right, other than the tags I can't see what is left was worth 10k let alone 17 was it crashed here....and either way I can't imagine the driver is well

Thanks Troy. Did I see right that you took yours to Bathurst the other week? Must have been fun, and plenty of space to let it stretch it's legs there.... Anyway, here's some exterior pics....keeping in mind it's had 15 years of racing and rallying so like most race cars it is only expected to look good from a distance..... I think it is bright enough, should be easy to spot in a carpark, and come up well in pics/tv Didn't get a lot done this weekend as I was out fighting blackberries again. Just sorted the engine bay wiring but needed to get it up on stands to deal with the wiring in the inner guard and under the rear. The quick jacks are a good thing but not really that quick (a bit fiddly to get right) and mega heavy to move

Lots of reasons an engine that has just been rebuilt might have a problem, I suggest taking it back to the shop and letting them decide what to do next. All 3 things you said are bad signs.

Funny you should ask, mine fell apart yesterday too. You are missing the nylon nut that sits inside the petrol flap, hopefully it is still there or on the ground under the car somewhere. You then push the release in through the rear panel and secure with the nut (not too tight it's only nylon)

So, got a bit more done today. Since I've gone haltech I need to mount a heap of little boxes. So back in the day the fabricator made up an MDF dummy but I needed to do it in carbon fibre (becaues race car) So, taped up the cf sheet and copied across the points A little hacksawing and drilling, and it looks like this. Again I've used rubber mounts to insulate the electronics a little from race car bumps Mounted up in place in the passenger footwell, tucked up behind the roll cage, all wiring in. That's pretty much it for now I also mounted up all the rest of the interior wiring; rallysafe, GPS for dash, camera, intercom all in. Unfortunately the next step is to redo the dash, since the last one had an uncovered trailer/truck related issue which made it flatter than it needs to be. I also have to put a big more wiring back in underneath (main fuel pump, fuel pressure and e85 sensors, o2 sensor) and a bit in the engine bay too...then it should be right to put the battery back in and see what I've done wrong in the wiring...

So, Kel is off rallying again and I thought if I don't do some work on the car it may not just finish itself.... The car is back from paint and there is no longer any evidence of that small issue on the nav side where the road was a little narrow that the driver thought. They've painted the inside too so it's time to put the wiring back in. Did some more labelling of the wire because I hadn't finished them all Ran the wiring to the back of the car And into the boot. That would have all been done back there but the shop didn't attach the rear bar properly so its off again for now Also go the main/dash wiring mostly sorted. The smartwire is mounted on rubber mounts to help keep it alive longer. Mounted it up All the wiring back in and connected up on the middle and driver's side. Looks like a damn mess but its actually pretty sorted, most of the hanging stuff is for dash and switches Still have work to do on ECU mounting and wiring on that side. Maybe another 6 months. Or tomorrow.

I agree it's unlikely to be the ECU that is the issue, although not impossible....what would be pretty much impossible is finding another one of those bloody ECUs to swap in. As you've probably seen elsewhere my stagea is the same month and had troubles when I swapped to an aftermarket ECU because pin outs were different to the ones before and after. I'm assuming the car is reasonably stock other than the manual conversion. Having an auto ECU in a manual converted car will not cause an issue on it's own, the main difference is the atuo ECU has logic to cut timing when the auto is shifting for smoother shifts. Since you have a manual now the ECU never gets that signal so that function is not used. The other thing about the auto ECU is that it might be less tolerant to mods, and that could be part of your issue depending on mods. In earlier series like r32 and r33 the ECU was more accepting of extra boost/airflow, but in the later series (and I found this ECU in particular) was really unhappy even with boost at 10psi instead of 7 even on the standard turbo. Basically the map had a really narrow band where it runs at sensible air fuel ratios, and it goes mega rich and retards the timing heaps outside that with the intent of protecting the engine from whatever went wrong to take it off that narrow path. Very rich running in particular can cause misfires alone, and can quickly foul spark plugs which will increase the issue. So....if you are unmodified, check the usual skyline/stagea stuff like Bobby has posted above. * Most likely reason for running rough and idle and stalling is an air leak in the intake after the air flow meter and before the inlet valves, or a dead or dying AFM. A good mechanic can do a smoke test to check and it would be a good idea to swap for another AFM and see if that helps * Maybe run it on a dyno somewhere with monitoring of fuel pressure because by this age could be fuel filter, injectors clogged or leaking, fuel pump dying/losing flow at high pressure * Coil packs / spark plugs / spark plug gap. Start by replacing with new plugs gapped to 0.8mm instead of standard. If that helps there is a problem in the ignition system so consider new coils or check the coil pack wiring and earth * Have a compression test done, there could be a mechanical problem in the engine. If the car is modified or running higher boost you need to get it on a dyno and find out if it is a rich running problem, and if so plan for an aftermarket ECU and some added expense getting wiring modified somewhat. Sorry I don't have a wiring diagram or details of what was changed in my car, it was more than 10 years ago now. I know there were coil and air con issues but can't remember details.

yep its just a nitto fitting. Pretty sure it came with one in the kit.

I've got an SP tools one I use on the 32 GTR, 33 GTST is probably the same I guess as they all use the same master cylinder. SP70821 BTW thread over here for another option....note that it took me months to get the correct part from SP....

Enough! Off topic posts removed, this is a build thread not a whitegoods discussion. Further off topic posts will lead to warnings or holidays.