Duncan

Posts removed. No chatting in FS section.

or possibly cut out the old ones if you are careful. The poly style are easier to put back in that standard ones

Yes, but you will also need to press out the rear bushes.....if you have one of those threaded bush presses or can make up something similar

Well...the wire and the bolt are almost certainly just an earth from the chassis to subframe...follow the wire to confirm. The ABS sensors have a bit of sealant on them. Twist to break the seal and they will slide out (assuming you also removed the bolt first...) Otherwise, if the rear mount bolts are undone (possibly hidden behind hicas), the tailshaft and driveshafts are off and the diff front mount is undone that is it. Might just be well stuck to the rear subframe bushes so try a bit of pry bar

you could....but I cant see a dangerous amount of bare metal there. If you look at other places like the spot welds where the chassis rails meet the floor you can see how a touch of surface rust can start over 30 years. It's not a dangerous rust risk like some places where water can pool and really eat into the metal. If you are worried underfloor sealer (tarlike stuff) is available in cans, it resists stone chips better

That is one of the straightest chassis rails I've ever seen on a 32.......next time put the stands where that seam is (forward of where you used), or spread the load a bit with a piece of wood along the rail

This doesn't often happen....but GTSBoy is not right. There is a long metal bracket that goes the length of the glovebox, it's confusingly shown just to the left of the glovebox in the diagram you posted. Let me know if you can't find one, I've got a spare since the "truck ran over my dashboard" incident

disc looks like it will clear OK. probably want to leave the caliper off though

2 randoms who won 2wd

Well, Liam and Larry have added the inaugural Targa Great Barrier Reef trophy to their pool room this weekend. While Quinn/Catford were super unlucky, breaking down on transport back after the last stage, Liam and Larry had been super all weekend on a brand new course and were running comfortably second when the porsche stopped, moving them to first in the largest class. These guys have been quietly racing their 33 GTR for years now, battling some bad luck at times but being overwhelmingly quick and careful, resulting in some great finishes. Well done guys Here's the Cairns post front page from yesterday (and no, that's not them in the race suits...)

Well if they are good enough for Marty and Blair....

I haven't used the floor style one, but on the hoist style one which is effectively the same but taller...yes you can still rotate the box to clear that hump. Just need to undo the safety chain or leave it loose. The 4 fingers that stick up are also adjustable or removable if they get in the way. That style of jack is a lot more stable that the regular small pad floor jack.

Whereabouts are you?

f**k it is boring to watch a slow car at that track* *sorry if something interesting happened in the second half of the lap, I fell asleep just after honda somewhere

also.....you are about 20 years too late to get a cheap car with an l26 so you would have to pay 000s for something.

I see. Someone else can enjoy it....

how much woosh does that size make mate, I need something for the rb30 stagea

For not attempting to start: Firstly, check the fuses on driver's side. There are some unhelpfully named ones like "Electronics" that actually supply power to modules like the ECU. Over near the ECU will be 1 (or 2...) blue relays. One of them is the "ECCS" relay which turns the ECU on. Depending on how comfortable you are with electronics you can use a multimeter to confirm the power and trigger wire have 12v when the ignition is on (and from memory the other just goes to earth so you can test that for continuity too). If not a word of that made sense, just touch the relay when someone turns on the ignition for you and you should feel a physical click. If not either the relay or it's wiring is a problem and the ECU will not turn on, which means it will not signal the fuel pump to prime. Easiest way to check that is swap that blue relay with something from the engine bay relay box that you don't need to start the car, eg Air Con For: "The weird thing is that the dash lights and radio lights turn on when you head light knob, but nothing else turns on." I don't really understand that. If the key is OFF and you turn on the headlights, all the dash (and tail) lights also turn on, and nothing else in the car should. 2nd possibility, it could just be a loose major connection. Check both battery terminals are tight and clean, and that the little distribution block at the positive terminal has all it's wires seated properly. On my GTR this connection was very loose and caused some intermittent problems, after all these connections have been bumping along for 30 years now. The only thing against this theory is that the car should run fine with a battery or battery connection issue once it starts because the alternator provides all the power and the battery is just getting charged. Also if it was a battery terminal issue the headlights should not work when the car does not start. But still....easy to check. Last idea from me, it could be a faulty key barrel. Is it nice and tight when you turn it or is there a little play in the key. It is one of the largest switches in the car and can also be tested with a multimeter if necessary. With OFF there should be no 12v at ACC, IGN or Start. At ACC there should be power at ACC. At IGN there should be power at ACC and IGN. At Start there should be power at both Start wires and IGN but not at ACC.

8 months use, right Good to hear they replaced them. Do you have the some problem developing on the other side?

Big Red will go to the battery (via a fuse), Blue/Red is almost certainly IGN power which means grey will be the ECU's AC signal (earth for on)

33 GTR, right? Sorry I don't have one to confirm. The AC relay is probably positive trigger from the ECU, negative trigger straight to earth and power straight to that main battery distribution post. Later models used negative trigger. Depending on what you need to know the easiest way is probably to probe it with the multimeter with the relay out. Unless you are trying to add a missing one in.....in which case check the ECU pin out to see if the AC signal is + or -, and then wire in a relay. One side of trigger is ECU AC pin, other trigger is either IGN if ECU is -, or earth if ECU is +, and then the main feed just comes straight from the battery post.

For sure the battery is the potential issue in these cars. They are either going to be thrown away in 10 years, or require a multi thousand dollar replacement. But it's really hard to tell what is real about what you read from single experiences vs the whole picture. I don't know about the 30kw/h one personally, but with the 24kw/h in 5.5 years and 200 cars in Oz, there was 1 battery that died very young (nissan replaced, probably some sort of quality/assembly error), and somewhere up to 5 that managed to get to the battery degradation replacement level before the warranty ran out and also go replaced by nissan. Like I posted about, we're at 2/3 of original capacity (say 16kwh) after 5 years, if it's linear that leaves 1/3 after 10 years or about 30klm per charge which is only usable in very specific cases like school runs or seniors to the bowling club ? By my count that is 1.5% failure rate after 5 years which is probably better than any normal car (mostly because these cars have much less to go wrong) So what's interesting to me is we've gone from manufacturers warranting a car for 3 (to 5) years, and an average fleet age of 10 years in Australia, to a car that realistically HAS to be replaced or have a major repair at 10 years. I bet Nissan will say that is the expected life of a car anyway and they are probably right....but then I look at every other car we own and they are between 20 and 30 years old. Other than the battery my guess is these cars will last much longer than the average car due to less servicing required (and therefore less impact if you don't service it), and fewer complex parts to fail. But how many people would spend $5k to keep a 10 year old, $5k car on the road (even if it returns to say 15 or 20k value after the repair since it has another 10 years of cheap, trouble free motoring ahead).

Well I reckon it's great they are putting in larger motors with each release but I don't understand why they say having the larger battery made it possible....that's exactly the same as saying you could not build a v8 unless you can have a larger fuel tank. Sure you can use more juice putting your foot down more often, but I'd rather see both the battery size and power output being independent options when you buy. even with current (global)/ upcoming (oz) leaf, I am not at all convinced that larger batteries are the only way to go. In my opinion buyers who think properly about it should be able to choose say a 24kwh battery for 25k instead of a 40kwh one for 40k. 24kwh has been plenty for day to day use in the city, and conversely 40kwh isn't enough for all of the longer distances uses we would need so it is just a more expensive in between option. You only ever need enough juice for your regular daily use so you can charge overnight, there is nothing gained by dragging around a battery that gives you say 3 days between charges....

I run 34 GTR wheels over 356mm ATTKD calipers on my stagea. Your profile nor post doesn't say what car you have...but they will probably fit.

For posterity....did you confirm it was M24 x 1.5? Depending on the damage, you would also be able to remove the thread from the first 5mm or so of the shaft (eg with a grinder) as the nut must go beyond there to be tight and to allow a split or R pin to be inserted. I've cleaned a smashed evo shaft up that way and it worked fine.