Duncan

All skylines look like that, those parts are unpainted steel from the factory. Don't worry about addressing it at all, it's just surface rust

So I can't claim to be moving quickly (but then again this build never has....) but the car is in the paint shop now. Initially they thought they were going to just even up the current surface a bit and respray it....I did warn them this was the 4th time the car had been painted. As you can see, after they got started and saw what they are in for, they are taking most of it back to bare metal to prep, prime and paint. Car should be about 50kg lighter now too. Also fixed the small modification I made against the bank at Targa High Country. They are doing inside and out, should be back in a few weeks. The only real challenge has been the front windscreen which is pretty much irreplaceable being one of Dell's heated ones. They are very nervous about taking it out knowing how hard and expensive it would be to replace....

You need to obtain a copy of the import papers from DOTARS. There are multiple schemes that a car can be imported under and from memory the old 15 year old scheme which became the 1988 scheme which is becoming the 30 year scheme did not require an australian plate. Is the car currently registered in the state you need?

Yes, that should be correct. remove ABS module (unplug), bypass the brake lines (either custom or non-ABS factory lines) and your 4wd should be fine.

The quick answer is that both ABS and ATTESSA use the same computer. So all of the inputs go in, like wheel speed, throttle position etc that both systems need, and the ABS and 4WD control go out again. There is an N1 model that had a no ABS option, in those cases there is a different ATTESSA computer but I bet it has the same sensor inputs.

The good news is, if you are certain you haven't turned the balancer or the cam, it will all still be in the right place

If the problem is only the cam journals you put another head on it and replace the cam. If the oil pressure issue also caused a crank bearing to spin then you will need to machine the crank, and put in new bearings and probably rings at the same time. The crank, pistons, block, oil pump etc will probably be reusable but the machine shop will have to confirm. As for fault...in my experience shops only tell you how responsible they are for any issues before they get your money. After some expensive failure has happened you learn that they don't actually stand behind their work, that they can't actually afford to fix the issue either, or that their workshop's insurer has a whole bunch of lawyers who are willing to spend money on telling you why it's not their fault instead of spending money fixing it. Find a local mechanic you trust to strip it unless the guy in Tas has agreed up front it is his fault. Get the new guy to take pics all through and if they form the view it was the original builder's fault send them the bill. At least that way you save the 000s it will cost to ship a dead car to Tassie for them to tell you they are not at fault (in their opinion).

Sorry, mine is 162896A...

Well it looks like that was a good cage.....not sure about the higher spoiler mount, I don't think it will actually improve the aero to be honest. Hopefully everyone walked away without injury

A properly assembled motor can't skip a tooth let alone three. Either the idler stud broke, it was never tensioned properly in the first place, or they added an additional idler or tensioner incorrectly during the build. No matter which I'm surprised it lasted 10k without showing up the issue.

I think it's a little unfair to call an engine unreliable because it can easily make 200-600% the power it was engineered for...remember these came out making about 160rwkw brand new. Anyway, just top it up and monitor weekly for a while. If it's not leaking where it's parked and it's not visibly smoking when running (particularly as it comes on boost) then into the coolant is the only other place a major leak could be. But you'd be surprised how much oil you can burn without it being obvious to the eye (or nose)

sounds like a wheel spoke problem, and changing them may well be the cheapest way out. you mean the spokes hit the caliper as they curve into the hub, right? But I saw you have the option in your WTB thread to space them out, that might get around the issue. BTW be careful when looking at second hand brake setup prices. When you take into account known pad and disc thickness, and possible brake line issues, the G4/Attkd/D2 etc ones have always looked like better value to me, brand new in a full set....

you just can't guess mate, there were too many versions of r200 diffs and they are not interchangeable. Plus someone has been inside it. To be sure you need: * markings from crownwheel (to confirm ratio) * pic of the diff centre to confirm LSD-ness * count of the output shaft splines

Agreed, you need them to take the back off. no matter what it left the factory as, someone has been in there since. I'll bet there were some R33s that had shorter ratios than 4.11 for instance gts4. The numbers will be on the crown wheel to tell you what the ratio is (needs to be opened) Also, I note there are no ABS sensors on either the tailshaft or driveshaft outputs. from memory 33 gtst has 3 channel ABS with ABS on the tailshaft so it may not be gtst. I don't know where the gtr abs senders are on a gtr, but I would have thought they were on each driveshaft like r32....

I don't know how manageable you would expect a 1100HP gtr to be? As well as the diff centres, I'd be making sure every bush and ball joint was new, particularly in the front. every little bit of slack adds up Also, wider front tyres increase tramlining too.

Not that I have a spare...but are you after 33 GTR or W34 Stagea?

Perfect, makes sense

Thanks for closing the loop for autos BTW I confirmed that 32 GTR driveshaft is the same as your 33 one pictured above (32mm/40mm), and both of the spares I checked have their balancing weight the same distance from the head to clear the clutch slave cylinder on a manual. My stagea is manual and the gtr driveshaft clears everything including the clutch slave, although there is only about 2mm to the clutch slave bleed nipple. I've not had a clearance issue in 10 years.

lol amazingly it does....I'll see what I have. Do you know where the type is stamped? And is the top of the page in your diagram the front or rear of the car?

Do you have more info about exactly what you need? Are we talking gearbox cross member? What is a B or C type and which bolt holes are the issue?

Yeah sorry, I should have said...the legal towing capacity is the least of: The manufacturer's rating for the car The towbar manufacturer/towbar engineer's load rating The tow ball rating The trailer's load rating

I understand the towing limit is set by the car manufacturer, which in the case of a SEVS import is the complier? Or if someone has nissan's info on stagea towing limits that would be interesting to know

I've towed a lot with my stagea. It's 4wd but I don't think that makes any difference 99% of the time. When you are towing you have the regular weight plus 200kg over the rear wheels which gives plenty of traction in most circumstances. I never got stuck anywhere, but consider if you might need to go on muddy grass or gravel at times when loading or unloading. One thing I would say, is that if you are towing heavy with a stock, auto stagea you will need some patience on hills. It won't be the slowest thing out there but it won't be a rocket either. Over the years I upgraded mine to rb30 with a small aftermarket turbo making about 250kw which was enough to tow the GTR up everything.

can do...just pm me your email address

Hi guys, sorry I don't have, or know the whereabouts, of an M35 manual. I do have the C34 manual (in japanese) for anyone who wants it