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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. Duncan
    Interesting. Mine is now manual which means the parking brake is no longer in stock position which may have made a difference. alternatively if the balancing tab was moved further down the shaft, would it clear? BTW I can't see in the pic exactly where it is larger...any chance you can add an arrow
  2. Duncan
    Maybe I should have been clearer, the requirement to be polite to other forum users applies to everyone, regardless of whether you think you are responding to someone else who "started it". If you are unhappy with the tone of a post report it, don't respond in kind.
  3. Duncan
    Hi Rice Racing, you may have confused SAU with other internet forums. Cut the personal attacks and enjoy your time here. For now this is just a warning but the next personal attack will result in banning.
  4. Duncan
    I've used both silicone and rubber blanking caps without issue (although not at that boost, but I don't think it makes a difference). For that matter I've used all sorts of "whatever I have around in the right size" sealers like 6mm bolts or solid rod to blank off unneeded hoses. I even saw a mechanic using a old oil filter to seal a gtr intake when doing a leak down test. Basically anything the right size that won't crush under a hose clamp A blanking cap is no more likely to come loose than any hose joint, so whatever hose clamps you use elsewhere will work the same for a blanking cap.
  5. Duncan
    Those instructions only state wire colours for their converter so it's certainly not specific to stagea. I've had one of these running in my stagea for about 10 years as a speedo corrector but I don't have the wiring handy; I will try and check in a couple of days when i do have the dash out. But Bobby's suggested approach is the safest way; in most cases the back of the dash has printing that says what each track is (although sometimes it is in japanese as in the example he showed..) Also, I've sent you a link to the manual
  6. Duncan
    Are they LEDs or regular globes. LEDs have a polarity so if you took them out to clean it's possible you were just really unlucky putting them back in backwards. It could also be an incorrectly mated plug to the dash where one of the earths has not lined up properly. Just check the pins are all straight on the plugs and plug them in again
  7. Duncan
    well, that sort of depends whether it's actually on boost when the gauge doesn't work or not a missfire can stop the engine running well enough to create decent boost. Alternatively, an electrical issue like a bad earth, dying alternator etc could also cause a misfire. There's just too many reasons to really guess without more information. Is your current situation that you have mostly 98 on board, you drove it 5 times yesterday, you haven't had a MIL for the last 3 trips, and it missfires? And where specifically does it misfire, approx which revs? And does it misfire if you free rev it or only when you are driving it properly under load? If it is just light missfire in the mid range under load it is most likely a spark plug or coil pack issue. start by pulling the plugs out and checking their condition and gap. If the gap is over 0.8mm gap them down to that and see how that goes.
  8. Duncan
    If you can control yourself it's safe enough....its just hard to be good all the time The quick option is to lower the base timing by 2-3o, that should make the factory tune safe on 91. Just need a timing light to do it correctly. Of course it won't be as crisp in the midrange but at least it will be safe on low octane
  9. Duncan
    Yeah, I'd fuel up at 1/4 tank with 98 and yes you end up with the average octane so that will be OK. I've been caught a few times without high octane when I'm out and about and it's fine. Actually back in the day when I was out at Alice Springs for 6 months my old 33 ran on only 91 and it survived OK....you only need the whole octane rating at maximum torque / maximum load. So if you aren't flooring it up a long hill in 4th at full boost it's fine. Aftermarket tunes are almost always less tolerant to make more power but factory is pretty safe.
  10. Duncan
    running on 91 is perfectly safe assuming you were just pottering around. If you floored it up a hill and noticed but ignored the sound of a small rock rattling in a tin then you've likely f**ked your engine. Is the car idling and running OK? Do you have 98 in it again now? It's most likely not related to the fuel, but you still need to find out what the error code is. Any local mechanic could put a scanner on it, or like Callan said there would be a tutorial on here somewhere on how to get it into diagnostic mode to tell you what the error is
  11. Duncan
    Well I don't have first hand experience with VQ35, but on VK56 which is very similar motor and ECU, error codes only appear with flange sealing problems, not from removing the cat. I suspect people confuse the 2 because they have to undo the flanges to change the pipe, and just see the error afterwards. Just use new nissan gaskets rather than the cheapies generally supplied with a kit and you'll be fine. I initially had ECL after changing over, but retorquing the flanges after a few heat cycles cleared it...
  12. Duncan
    what on earth is a test pipe? Is it a cat-less exhaust?
  13. Duncan
    yeah. Pull off the vacuum line that goes to be booster and block it off on the engine side, and see if the braking changes at all. dead feeling pedals can have lots of causes including glazed pads or rotors. Cold race pads. Not generally water or air in the brake lines because gives you a "holy shit the pedal just went to the floor and I'm going to drill that camry" in traffic kind of feeling
  14. Duncan
    no it surely will not mess anything up. spin away. It's probably got locking nuts at either end of the middle part that you need to loosen off first, fg you aren't sure post up a pic
  15. Duncan
    I finally used mine on the weekend to take the race tyres off the leaf and return it to road life. About 2 hours from wrapped in plastic to wheel change complete. There's a bit of stuffing around bleeding the hydraulics the first time but very straightforward to use. I've got the 12v version so it is theoretically portable, but each frame is very heavy to lift. Probably slower than a jack and stands on a car where you have it down pat, but it does lift stuff off the ground which is the whole point. And lifting by the sills keeps the underside of the car nicely accessible. But it doesn't seem like good value for occasional/weekend use to me. Also, if you buy one check the measurements of the jack against each car you want to lift. The Leaf is just hatchback sized but the biggest quickjack only made it by about 200mm
  16. Duncan
    The tensioner stud is 13073-V5001 And for what it's worth, the idler bolt is 08041-07010 or 08041-0701A
  17. Duncan
    Personally I wouldn't hesitate to reuse the bolt and washer, I've reused them many times. Seems like a good idea to replace the balancer as they have bonded rubber and would be feeling their age by now. When you do the timing belt you should definitely change the stud for the timing belt idler bearing, they have been known to break, as well as the idler and tensioner bearing of course. And the cam and crank oil seals. And the water pump.
  18. Duncan
    Yeah that's the number. Australia adds a whole bunch of stuff to the front but BNR32-303809 is your japanese VIN. It comes up with 12200-05U02 for the crank so it is different to my earlier car, but not necessarily because it's a Vspec. As I said earlier 12200-05U03 superseeds both of them so whatever the difference is they are all compatible. In any case...the part numbers I posted above for the balancer, bolt and washer should be fine. What happened that you need them?
  19. Duncan
    I'm pretty sure Vspec had the same crank as base GTRs. They all changed sometime around 94 to long drive for the oil pump but that was not Vspec only, and they are interchangable. Does your 93 have a long oil pump drive? I can double check if the crank is different if you want, either post or pm me your VIN number. The crank part number for my 91 non vspec 32 gtr is 12200-05U01. FAST shows 12200-05U02 and 12200-05U03 are alternate part numbers (ie interchangeable) but there is no description of the the change. In any case, the long oil pump drive does not change any of the parts around. It just engages more of the oil pump rotor.
  20. Duncan
    I'm pretty sure she's tall enough to knee you in the balls next time she sees you mate
  21. Duncan
    well accord to nismo the original balancer (12303-05U01) is no longer available, but they are making a replacement 12303-RHR20 for a very reasonable 42000 yen. http://www.nismo.co.jp/heritage_parts/ bolt is 12309-05u00 and big washer under it is 12308-05U00
  22. Duncan
    Thanks Dave, I was actually looking into this and it seems some people have had bad results when extending as the original wires are stainless so can't really be soldered. http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-performance-modifications/397281-jba-long-tube-install-o2-sensor-placement-extension-harness.html Seems to be running OK so far, and the tune is done via email based on logs, but effectively only from the rear cylinders like you say. My guess is they have it down pat after doing billions of them. There was one other mod I did a while back, but hadn't got around to showing....set your faces to stun... yes, you saw that right. Side steps that are low enough to use, but keep getting smashed up every time you go over rough ground. I've got lots of other jobs lined up and should get time over the xmas break because there is a long gap between my contracts, and most of the urgent #rurallife jobs are under control at last.
  23. Duncan
    I've very happy with the ATTKD 330s...I've got a set on the Cima as well now. The ones on the stagea (which also has 260kw) have been there since 2007. I've replaced pads on a couple of them including race car (winmax from racebrakes) and stagea (replacement original ones from just jap), and I replaced the discs/rings on the stagea with replacements from justjap a year or 3 back as well. If they made those for the Titan I'd put these brakes on them too, they are excellent value upgrades.
  24. Duncan
    I can't see it happening....330s barely fit under 17s. It 's an issue with how far the caliper sticks out from the rotor
  25. Duncan
    32-34 hot.....most people prefer the lower end of the range. cold is too hard to guess, depends on track, car and driver. If you have no idea where to start set them to 28, do 3 hard laps, come into the pits hot and let them down to 32
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