Duncan

Oh and yes that auction sheet does have the VIN covered, and there is no valid reason to do that, because the only thing it can prove is that it is from a different car....

Good on you for checking out the klm properly, and if you find a suspicious one from a deal please report it to fair trading instead of letting them get away with it. Those dealers are a scourge on all imports plus they end up putting the honest guys out of business because they can't compete. I'd be trying to get a copy of the full auction report independently. Normally when you're using a broker to import it they will obtain the sheet for you, and I suspect they can find any of them just from a VIN....so try Iron Chef, Prestige etc and see if they can help. The other interesting way to check is when you are in the car go through the nav menus. A lot of the vehicles of this age have a life to date klm, hours driven, average speed etc which the dodgies forget to reset.....take a photo if you find something wrong.

Next up it needs a tune to deal with the new exhaust an intake. I bought the uprev tuner which reflashes the ECU, well proven solution in the states. Of course just after buying it I spoke to Mark over at Unigroup and it turns out they had just picked one up too....oh well. Happily the truck comes with wide band 02 sensors from factory so it should be easier than usual Also still got a bunch of electrical stuff to sort and the lightbar to re-mount now that lovely front bumper is gone

Next up was another pre-emptive reliability issue. These things are notorious for cracking their headers and doing a whole bunch of damage. So I took the opportunity to pick up a well proven full exhaust and also a Nismo intake kit while I was shipping stuff over Got the mechanic to fit it all up because I've got no time at the moment.....also apparently the manifolds are a real bastard to swap out. All done with no skin off (my) knuckles While I enjoy a good v8 exhaust as much as the next person, it's too loud right now and so I'm going to fit up an extra resonator that was recommended....just didn't have time to get it all done at once. The nismo intake fit up perfectly and sounds great, typical nismo stuff

Well it's been a while with all the life stuff going on...but I've got a few updates. The only tow since last update was to Ringwood at Raymond Terrace which was again no problems First thing was getting an ARB bull bar fitted up. Yes they make, ship and sell a billion of them over in the states, but it took some convincing over multiple calls that I knew what I was talking about and actually had a Titan in Aus. In the end it fitted up OK and now it looks just every other navara on our roads. I don't think it's a change for the better looks wise, but it's just too likely I'm going to hit something one dark, wet evening and be waiting 8 months for a new bar out of the states. At least it mates up nicely to the factory bash plate.

Yeah I think the problem is the power output is too high for the nicest option which is a regular single plate clutch. you can get a single to hold that but only with a heavy pressure plate which will also affect day to day. Or turn the boost down and use a single

well that's one of those times I'm happy to be wrong keep changing the oil regularly and use something with additives/detergents and there's no reason the noise would return...

no, there is not. gearbox and diff choices are not linked. plus, r32 gts4 came exactly that way from the factory (4.4s and gtr box that is). I bet r33 gts4 is the same from factory as well

Well from my point of view the hankooks at 1800 a set are still a better buy than the dunlops or yokos are 2500 a set since they perform better. They were are no brainer for the performance they gave at the old pricing but if you want to be at the front of a competition you would still have to buy them at whatever price since they are the best tyre. But now the pricing has shifted I guess it is worth looking again at the 888, v70a etc for general/club use where price is more important than outright speed. The 888 used to be poor under heavy cars like GTRs but I'm interested to see results if they have changed them recently.

no, brake cleaner is fine. degreaser on the other hand isn't because it would leave a residue on the AFM. and your car isn't killing the AFM, the AFM is killing the car. so if you do have another AFM just swap it across

BTW the AA guy did exactly the right thing. Dirty intake or AFM was a fair assumption on the side of the road, and brake cleaner is the best thing to clean a dirty AFM with. Of course cleaning a failed sensor won't fix it, but their job is to fix what they can quickly without tools and diagnostics so it was a fair decision. It would seem most likely to be either AFM or fuel pump and neither is expensive to swap. So change over whichever you think is more likely and see if it sorts it If you want to spend more money on it you can have the fuel pump tested by a decent mechanic, keeping in mind they tend to fail gradually which means a failing pump will still seem to pump by ear or on a bench but may not make enough pressure when required.

V70A used to be our control tyre, I used to run the mediums and found them the best of the mid priced tyres. of course then the hankooks came along at mid price and blew away even the most expensive ones which turned the market upside down for a while. I haven't priced them lately but per Richard's post, if they have got expensive that may make v70a a good choice again. One surprising thing about the v70a, they like really high pressures. Like 40-45 hot high.

Well if you take the current + to the fuel pump as your trigger to your new relay everything will still work...but you will still be running through the old fuel pump relay unnecessarily. It's not a big deal but if it fails you will lose fuel even though it's not serving any useful purpose.

Genelle by far the easiest and cheapest is to sell your car and buy an auto one. Any conversion will cost way more than the car was worth in the first place.

That diagram is not for a skyline, right? In our system the ECU signal is negative not positive. It goes to a relay which goes to a variable resistor which changes the pump speed when at idle, and then to the pump. If you are trying to simplify you need to find the original fuel pump relay (I think it is under the carpet in the boot where the boot lock is), find which wire into that has earth for about 5 seconds after you turn the ignition on but then it stops. Use that wire to 85 on your diagram as the - relay source. Connect 86 to the same wire that comes from your battery (it is the + relay source). 87 connects to fuel pump + as shown. fuel pump - should go straight to a good earth as shown on the diagram Sorry I don't know wire colours, they change between models anyway, but what I wrote works for all R chassis. Wired up this way you get full voltage all the time, and the fuel pump is still controlled on and off by the ECU which is important for safety. The diagram you had assumed a + source from the ECU.

As above, 99% the problem is with the sender not the dash

frankly, in the current and likely future market a good condition car heavy with Nismo parts is probably a better investment than bitcoin.... also, if you are in a country with no experience or parts for these motors there is a real argument for japanese crate motors. Australia is a very different situation

sorry man, no good news. it is expensive. cheapest way out is an engine swap, possible out of a stagea.

Sorry I'm not familiar with QLD rules, but I understood in NSW a full (6 point) cage is a no go, plate or not. Only half cage (4 point) can pass due to driver head issues. You might need to check with a local engineer, is there a name on the papers?

if you are feeling optimistic you could take all the drive belts off (water pump/fan/alternator, power steer, aircon) and start it briefly and see if the noise is still there, but the video is pretty distinctive....

sorry mate but you've spun a bearing, probably big end. If you give it a little rev does it get worse (best way to confirm if it is big end vs main, but either way the bottom end needs fixing) what does the oil pressure gauge and/or light say when it's running? Do you still have any oil pressure? What were you doing last time it didn't make the noise? also, if you intend to rebuild it rather than replace it, every single revolution does more damage and increases cost to rebuild...

I doubt datascan can help but anyone with consult with the security option should be able to code keys like Bob said. Any nissan dealer or some specialist shops like Justjap.

In our stagea we just used the M6 bolt that holds the base of the rear seat down through the extinguisher's bracket. It holds fine and is easily within reach of the driver.

I haven't got them on the same car or tested back to back. But I am very happy with them. I would probably give them a go for a hard driven street car if they had a direct fit replacement like the link you had. ATTKD are a Just Jap only brand AFAIK. But the Ksport, G4, D2 etc etc all seem to be the same or similar.