Duncan

also.....you are about 20 years too late to get a cheap car with an l26 so you would have to pay 000s for something.

I see. Someone else can enjoy it....

how much woosh does that size make mate, I need something for the rb30 stagea

For not attempting to start: Firstly, check the fuses on driver's side. There are some unhelpfully named ones like "Electronics" that actually supply power to modules like the ECU. Over near the ECU will be 1 (or 2...) blue relays. One of them is the "ECCS" relay which turns the ECU on. Depending on how comfortable you are with electronics you can use a multimeter to confirm the power and trigger wire have 12v when the ignition is on (and from memory the other just goes to earth so you can test that for continuity too). If not a word of that made sense, just touch the relay when someone turns on the ignition for you and you should feel a physical click. If not either the relay or it's wiring is a problem and the ECU will not turn on, which means it will not signal the fuel pump to prime. Easiest way to check that is swap that blue relay with something from the engine bay relay box that you don't need to start the car, eg Air Con For: "The weird thing is that the dash lights and radio lights turn on when you head light knob, but nothing else turns on." I don't really understand that. If the key is OFF and you turn on the headlights, all the dash (and tail) lights also turn on, and nothing else in the car should. 2nd possibility, it could just be a loose major connection. Check both battery terminals are tight and clean, and that the little distribution block at the positive terminal has all it's wires seated properly. On my GTR this connection was very loose and caused some intermittent problems, after all these connections have been bumping along for 30 years now. The only thing against this theory is that the car should run fine with a battery or battery connection issue once it starts because the alternator provides all the power and the battery is just getting charged. Also if it was a battery terminal issue the headlights should not work when the car does not start. But still....easy to check. Last idea from me, it could be a faulty key barrel. Is it nice and tight when you turn it or is there a little play in the key. It is one of the largest switches in the car and can also be tested with a multimeter if necessary. With OFF there should be no 12v at ACC, IGN or Start. At ACC there should be power at ACC. At IGN there should be power at ACC and IGN. At Start there should be power at both Start wires and IGN but not at ACC.

8 months use, right Good to hear they replaced them. Do you have the some problem developing on the other side?

Big Red will go to the battery (via a fuse), Blue/Red is almost certainly IGN power which means grey will be the ECU's AC signal (earth for on)

33 GTR, right? Sorry I don't have one to confirm. The AC relay is probably positive trigger from the ECU, negative trigger straight to earth and power straight to that main battery distribution post. Later models used negative trigger. Depending on what you need to know the easiest way is probably to probe it with the multimeter with the relay out. Unless you are trying to add a missing one in.....in which case check the ECU pin out to see if the AC signal is + or -, and then wire in a relay. One side of trigger is ECU AC pin, other trigger is either IGN if ECU is -, or earth if ECU is +, and then the main feed just comes straight from the battery post.

For sure the battery is the potential issue in these cars. They are either going to be thrown away in 10 years, or require a multi thousand dollar replacement. But it's really hard to tell what is real about what you read from single experiences vs the whole picture. I don't know about the 30kw/h one personally, but with the 24kw/h in 5.5 years and 200 cars in Oz, there was 1 battery that died very young (nissan replaced, probably some sort of quality/assembly error), and somewhere up to 5 that managed to get to the battery degradation replacement level before the warranty ran out and also go replaced by nissan. Like I posted about, we're at 2/3 of original capacity (say 16kwh) after 5 years, if it's linear that leaves 1/3 after 10 years or about 30klm per charge which is only usable in very specific cases like school runs or seniors to the bowling club ? By my count that is 1.5% failure rate after 5 years which is probably better than any normal car (mostly because these cars have much less to go wrong) So what's interesting to me is we've gone from manufacturers warranting a car for 3 (to 5) years, and an average fleet age of 10 years in Australia, to a car that realistically HAS to be replaced or have a major repair at 10 years. I bet Nissan will say that is the expected life of a car anyway and they are probably right....but then I look at every other car we own and they are between 20 and 30 years old. Other than the battery my guess is these cars will last much longer than the average car due to less servicing required (and therefore less impact if you don't service it), and fewer complex parts to fail. But how many people would spend $5k to keep a 10 year old, $5k car on the road (even if it returns to say 15 or 20k value after the repair since it has another 10 years of cheap, trouble free motoring ahead).

Well I reckon it's great they are putting in larger motors with each release but I don't understand why they say having the larger battery made it possible....that's exactly the same as saying you could not build a v8 unless you can have a larger fuel tank. Sure you can use more juice putting your foot down more often, but I'd rather see both the battery size and power output being independent options when you buy. even with current (global)/ upcoming (oz) leaf, I am not at all convinced that larger batteries are the only way to go. In my opinion buyers who think properly about it should be able to choose say a 24kwh battery for 25k instead of a 40kwh one for 40k. 24kwh has been plenty for day to day use in the city, and conversely 40kwh isn't enough for all of the longer distances uses we would need so it is just a more expensive in between option. You only ever need enough juice for your regular daily use so you can charge overnight, there is nothing gained by dragging around a battery that gives you say 3 days between charges....

I run 34 GTR wheels over 356mm ATTKD calipers on my stagea. Your profile nor post doesn't say what car you have...but they will probably fit.

For posterity....did you confirm it was M24 x 1.5? Depending on the damage, you would also be able to remove the thread from the first 5mm or so of the shaft (eg with a grinder) as the nut must go beyond there to be tight and to allow a split or R pin to be inserted. I've cleaned a smashed evo shaft up that way and it worked fine.

How did you go? They can be an absolute arsehole to replace because they don't have a proper hex head and can be very tight so they are very easy to round off. It may be necessary to remove the box to get at it properly. The good news is the wiring is more likely to be the problem than the actual switch, up under the plastic cover the soldering can fail. Resolder it and off you go.

I'm not exactly prompt...but just saying, the H on the dipstick will still be accurate. The tube is pressed into the block just above the sump, so the H level is the same. With different sumps and particularly extended sumps, you may still have a lot of oil below L but that is not really an issue.

I suggest you talk to an import broker before you spend any money fixing things. Personal imports fall under different and more open rules than normal. Try Geoff at Prestige Motorsport or Kristian at Iron Chef Imports

cool choice....enjoy silently trolling porsches at traffic lights

sorry, Sick_R31, not Sik_R31 Bursons may not be able to use those numbers, they are a Nissan part number so they would need a cross check. You could buy from Nissan or Kudos as per Sick_R31's link. Or Amayama.com if you are not in a rush.

Ok...so you are correct, it is a type M. Sik_R31 was the winner, part numbers you need are: 43280-30P05 / 43280-AA000, and 43281-30P05 / 43281-AA000

don't take this the wrong way...but I hope all that work is costing a fortune. what a prick of a job to go to everyday.

take it to a dealer, swap it for a c34 stagea and you should be fine

lol classic. finally a car harder to park at coles than my titan!

well personally I'd go to Unigroup and have been for years. But surely anyone can tune a PFC. Re the auto, you can't tune a PFC for an auto as such. You just get a normal tune, and then the auto decides to change gear the PFC will not cut the timing to make the shift smoother like a factory ECU would. Theoretically that is bad for the auto, I have no idea how well it works in practice. But if the guys who did your valve kit are happy to warrant the work with a PFC then why worry?

definitely not that easy. without knowing what the previous tune spec was for certain there are a heap of settings that could be wrong enough for it not to start. or it could be damaged or dead. you really need to borrow a hand controller, or take it to a tuner who has datalogit or similar. if you don't expect to keep the tune it is reasonably easy to reset to factory with the hand controller which should let it start and run temporarily with those mods.

I suspect what you need was posted above, but if you want to be certain we need your Vin# to look up the part in FAST

I'm not much help since I don't visit all the time, but I hadn't noticed a speed issue lately, and I haven't noticed it being better since the changes...

Assuming your car is 2wd (since you don't say, and neither does your profile) not 4wd? When you say you "fitted it up and the inner diameter for the cv spline is to big" do you mean you can't press the hub face back into the bearing because it is too large, or because it is too small/loose or something else? If you post up your VIN# someone can look up the exact nissan part# in FAST for you.