Duncan

then I can't help personally. But for posterity, 32 GTR front lower control arm length is 315mm ball joint to ball joint

front or rear? 2wd or 4wd?

OK, then my uneducated guess about most likely reason is that something is loose/not put back correctly in the tank....sadly it's time to take the lid off and see what you can see. In particular check the cradle is mounted properly on the bottom of the tank and that the wiring and hoses are all connected.

And also, what were you doing immediately before the car started stalling? nothing or did you make a change of some sort on the car. The lights are nothing to worry about, they always light up when IGN is on but the engine is not stalling (ie before starting the car, and if it ever stalls) Stalling could be fuel, air or spark related. When you floor it that doesn't exactly add fuel (depending on where you are on the ECU map) so it could be something else like a massive air leak. Also could be very low fuel pressure, insufficient battery voltage, probably a million other things

Well the good news is that nothing that large could give you a problem in the fuel system, there are lots of socks/filters/etc. Also the car won't start if the lines are the wrong way around because fuel can't get into the fuel rail. So....whatever is happening is not due to a "flathead" (is that a fish?) or having the fuel lines the wrong way. What's the actual problem you are having?

Almost certainly your steering wheel is not straight, or you have an aftermarket non HICAS steering wheel. There is a HICAS sensor on the steering column to determine when you are turning a corner. If your wheel is not on straight it will think you are always turning, particularly on straight roads so it will throw an error light

ahh, here: http://www.caradvice.com.au/506503/nissan-australia-secures-future-for-local-manufacturing/ A small Kangaroo cast into the finished product identifies all the components cast in the Australian factory.

yeah the leaf has a kangaroo on the motor casing too

almost certainly because nissan runs a global aluminium casting factory in melbourne

lol I'm not exactly sure this will count as an upgrade....but I love a left field project....good luck!

well that was an interesting exercise, this is what I learned: some businesses only deal with people who have facebook accounts some wrap businesses don't respond to sales inquiries 2 that did both quoted over $6k to wrap the car. Both took more than 2 weeks to respond. So in summary, the cima is staying black

good driving in horrible conditions there, well done

whoa good searching. rb26 is m12x1.25

Welcome Krzys...are they a common sight in the UK or as rare as unicorns?

lol very old thread. I suspect your rear brakes aren't locking, and you are feeling something else. rears locking first lead to a very distinctive feeling of leaving the track backwards, or having to work very fast to correct it before it loops. On the other hand feeling light or squirmy at the rear under the brakes is pretty common on these cars. They are way heavier at the front and under brakes if you run softer springs (and I prefer that) then a lot of weight shifts and the rear can get light. Some people like it, some don't. I find it helps point the car into the apex in slower corners, I someone else's evo who runs even softer than I do I found it really disconcerting in long fast corners. Anyway, that was a bit rambling, but the point is it was unlikely to be locked brakes and rather just a light rear end. Go harder on the rear springs and shocks and see if it feels more stable. Also, it can be exacerbated by suspension bush or balljoint problems in the rear, in particular hicas ball joints if they are still in place.

By far the most likely cause is someone trying to fill the gearbox through the shifter.....

I get that you probably think everyone is not being that helpful, but basically everyone deals with this sort of issue in the same way. Its actually the body that is in the wrong place compared to the wheels, so you fix where the body is. It is perfectly normal for medium to high caster to rub on the inner guard liner, it is fixed by removing the inner guard liner. after that it will hit the lip on the guard which you fix with a guard roller (or hammer if you prefer...) after that it will hit where the front bumper joins the guard which requires angle grinder on the guard and bumper and holding it on some less intrusive way like drift spec cable tie stitches after that you are trying to get too much camber for a stock body, time to change the uprights and control arms.

umm can't really answer that. the bolts imply it is a push clutch (assuming that's where the slave was). If you want to convert to pull you use the 2 bolt holes on the other side of the dust cover, and change the front cover, fork, release bearing and carrier as listed above what we really need is a pic inside the bellhousing which must be possible because no engine attached....

lol thanks for the inspiration but I was thinking a liiiiiiiiiiiiiitle more low key

Thanks Brett, I got in contact with those guys AND they responded. happy days. Matt thanks for the feedback, that's exactly the sort of info I was looking for. Do you know what brand of vinyl was used in either/both? With the race car there has been a massive difference between the good quality stuff (avery) and ebay special stuff. The cheap stuff has gone bad in less than a year while I've had avery vinyl on there for 7 years which is still OK. I understand 3m is the stuff to go for in wraps. I put about 50,000klm a year on the cima so 4 years life would be a good outcome, it will be about half a million klm by then. And it's going to be living outdoors for a couple of years while we build again for sure

well the most is a billion and the least is 0 (or some loss of power).....but more information is required to be helpful. changing the computer will just let you modify the tune from what the factory set it to. what mods do you currently have, and what are you thinking about changing over the next couple of years?

unless it is a problem you should return the clutch and get a push type one. there are push/pull clutch converters or you can change the gearbox back to pull with a bit of work, but by far the easiest is getting the right clutch. BTW as sick_r31 said your car should be pull type clutch if it is a 94, so something has happened changed it left the factory or you have the wrong build year

great to hear it is sorted properly and an easy fix. don't worry about the temp until it is north of 100. the warmer they are they better they run, particularly in modern engines. and score 1 point to Calln to guessing correctly

Thanks for the extra option. Actually i haven't got this sorted yet and want to move it along, but since I'm not on facebook and no wrap companies exist outside facebook it looks like check-mate! If anyone knows a reputable wrapper who owns a phone I'd be happy to give them a go....

a common and unexpected clunker is the shock top mounts, particularly if you either re-used the factory ones with your new coilovers, and also if they are new but are rose joint type they can start clunking surprisingly quickly. also, it can simply be a loose nut on a joint that causes the clunk without anything being wrong bush-wise, so check them all. BTW do you think it is front or rear clunk. rear clunk would most commonly be subframe or diff bushes