Duncan

Interested in the impact that 15o has on fuel, I found no solid information last time I looked around. What temp should fuel be, what happens as it gets hotter, and what is too hot?

Are you sure that is not aftermarket? Your pic looks like a standard 33 series 2 bar with the nismo extensions, but I've not seen the lower lip part before....

29 minutes to MDTC, 34 to Wakie......hello sleep ins! (yes Eastern Creek is further away now, but who can afford to go there?!)

so anyway, the next (actually final) big job of the reco is painting the interior and fixing the exterior. And no I'm not trying DIY, I've done that before (on the nugget) and it looked really shit. I'm not trying to make a showcar but I do want it tidied up. so back out with everything in the interior, wiring, seatbelt mounts and eye bolts, boot release, gear shift etc, looking really empty, again Next up is vaccum then wipe down with wax and grease remover, then tape up and ship it off to the painter. Also need to remove all the stickers, even the ones that have been on there for 10 years and will pull the paint off because I'm getting them to clean up the outside as well I decided to move onto the painting now, because in big news for us, we've bought a place outside Sydney near Goulburn and are selling our current place over the next few months. I really needed the car rolling and OK to move so I decided to get it ready for painting instead of trying to spend weeks on the ECU.

well, I made a little progress. first up I worked out an issue with the ECU wiring; basically IGN signal in a 32 goes from the key to the DS firewall grommet to the front engine bay fuse box to the stock boost controller (of all things), around the front of the engine bay, along the strut tower, through the PS firewall grommet and into the ECU. All of which would be fine if I hand't assumed that only the boost controller used that source in my car now and wired it to the boost controller switch. So for now boost has to be on either high or low for the ECU to receive the IGN signal and start up properly. So that got the powerfc behaving properly, but despite some further stuffing around the car still doesn't start. I then plugged the haltech back in (properly this time) to check everything there (it shows way more inputs and sensors) but I still couldn't work out the issue and decided to give up and take it to someone who knows what they are looking at. I expect to post up again afterwards saying I was out of fuel or something stupid like that. Anyway, so I focused on the next step instead, getting the car rolling again. Wheels are on, brakes working, everything tightened up (oh except the front driveshafts, and all the ball joints which I better remember....). She's back on the ground, rolling, and godzilla approves

Generically, yes, any ECU will add more fuel when the car is cold than when it is warm. If you have a tunable ECU you could take fuel out at about 62 because that will be "warm" for your engine. Standard thermostat and tune will expect 76o

Well, it won't make it explode into a ball of flame or anything. But the car will run colder than it is meant to which means the ECU will make it run richer = more fuel use and to a lesser extent more fuel contamination of oil. The standard thermostat is fine for street cars. Running a colder (or no) thermostat is really just a bandaid for a cooling system with some other problem....in any case once the thermostat is fully open the temp is determined by whether the cooling system can remove the same or more heat as the engine is putting in.

well yes, normally when it only gets hot when moving slowly or idling you would suspect fan; but clutch fans are pretty reliable and are always going to turn somewhat when the engine does (unlike thermo fans which can be not running at all due to wiring, fuse, relay etc). It could be the fan's clutch but normally they fail the other way (ie always on, making it very noisey even at idle) In this case it may simply be a blocked radiator or similar where the lack of airflow through the radiator is showing up the issue

you're spot on Matt, that's why I'm going down the dangerous path of assuming that same symptom means same problem. In the gtst (which had always run fin on the stock computer), when we put a powerFC in we had put a fuse into an existing but empty circuit in the fuse box. Without it the PFC constantly reset, with it in it worked perfectly. I'm getting the same symptom here so I'll just start with checking the various 12v wires in the engine loom have power when they are meant to....if it's the only mistake I've made after this much rewiring I'll be surprised.

so that reminds me of the old joke.... what's yellow and purple and has 13 nipples? yes, a bloody gtr race car. over the last few weeks the focus was getting Neil's radical running for the first round of the hillclimb champs, which we just managed (well, I did a bit but f**k all overall). but in any case I hadn't touched my car since mid jan until the other day. so I spent the weekend bleeding stuff, 4 calipers with 2 nipples each, abs with 2 nipples, attessa with 2 nipples, and the strangely uni-nippled clutch. looks like I've got good pressure in all of them now but it's hard to be certain until it drives. I haven't got the car started yet, I tried both the Haltech and the PFC and it cranks but doesn't run. The PFC continually resets so I assume it's a problem with the ECU power (i removed the ECCS relay). Time is a bit tricky at the moment because we are moving to the country, eating a lot of peaches, but I'm still hoping to get it running first.

wow, I'd be shocked if there was a buyer at half that price, will be interested to see... i know 32 gtr prices have improved, but in the end the asking price is meaningless until there is a buyer willing to pay it.

Maybe try one for a volvo or camry station wagon, they seem to be the same shape

Lower hose is standard, upper hose I've just cut and joined 2 suitable hoses.

well that is a hell of an update, life really knows how to send challenges. Good to hear you still have the time and interest in getting the skyline running properly.

umm yeah, they were probably removed with the brake lines. they are short hard lines with male fittings at both ends which would allow the female at the caliper and the female at the braided line to mate up

well...doing that wouldn't be street legal, but if you mean for track use....yes, you can just vent the cam covers to atmosphere, preferably through a decent sized catch can and also add a small filter on the exit to stop anything getting sucked back in.

But longer than standard studs will make re-installation harder and is not necessary

Yes. The nismo 2 way is a standard gtr centre with extra friction plates. Crown wheel will swap from a standard gtr diff

pressing them out is better for the bearing, but the skyline ones are pretty good in the first place, not like an old falcon or something. I've done it with a hammer a few times and had no issue.

do what this man says, he knows. and welcome back to the forums

but also, it's reasonably clear if you have it on the wrong side, it needs to have some tension on it

above, according the to 32 gtr service manual

Yes, pretty much everyone has to do this as the 32 bearings and synchros are not available any more. There are some small parts that are stronger in the series 3 (not series 1-2) r33 boxes which help with gear shifting. BTW you can use the r33 box, it bolts straight in. You re-use your 32 gearbox speed sender, and you would be changing to a pull type clutch instead of push. Alternatively you can swap the 33 box to suit a push clutch by changing from front plate of the gearbox, the carrier, fork and pivot to the stuff from your 32 box. I run a converted 33 box in my 32 race car. But there is no difference with the gears or their strength, so depending on what you've broken (or are trying not to break) it may not make any difference.

Give Trish or Terry a call at Award Gearbox and Diff in Sydney, they do millions of these and know exactly what they are looking at.

Whereabouts are you? They are easily rebuild-able by a shop that is familiar with them, and any 32 xfer case should be interchangeable. Infact I think a 33 or 34 would also work but am not sure. Also, is your car Australian or unusual, 91 GTRs were not available for import as Nissan were selling them locally 91-93? And finally...why do you think yours is borken?