Duncan

What's the weird looking slot above the screen for? It's easy to forget these cars were designed 30 years ago, isn't it.....

Chris Rogers at Audio Express is your man for anything import

It's pretty straightforward to deal with a bad workshop experience, post up what happened as fairly as you can but don't name the workshop in the post. People can ask you by PM if they want to. Anyone is welcome to setup www.alternativeuniverseSAUwhereyoucansayanythingyoulikeaboutbusinesses.com because then they are taking the financial risk, not Christian. His site, his rules. BTW....there was nothing good for skyline enthusiasts in that video, I saw my grandmother with her walking frame trying to get across the road at 14:43, glad they missed her.

i've got nothing....I just take borken ones to a driveshaft shop, pay the bill, get nice reco-ed ones back. Everything that happened in between is black magic to me.

Go the pair of wires from the box plug into any other part of the system? I guess it just turns something in the system on/off, eg the 4wd for burnouts

Sorry to chat in FS...but why do you need new shafts? are you looking for spares or have you had a catastrophic failure? I've had good success with rebuilding second hand int he past...

250 is a bargain for drilling 10x holes about 200mm deep each, straight, through cast iron. It probably costs them that much in drill bits!

I'd have to say, other than having seen the brand on an awesome race car I've seen and known nothing about them. I have no idea what part of the market they are trying to cover between the basic oil makers / local oil makers and premium/overseas oil makers, or what the reason is that we would use them?

Just swap it for anything that fits for a few hot days, even something crappy like a micra. It also could be a leak that is only obvious under pressure (which it doesn't get to on cooler days) which you could check with a pressure tester.

I know you said you changed it....but it sounds exactly like radiator cap not holding pressure....

Did you end up having any problems with the intake?

Thanks Rhys....do you know approx retail cost? How long was it on and how was the paint afterwards?

Vinyl wrapping Has anyone had their car wrapped? Were you happy with the job? what did it cost? how did it last? My cima is the wrong colour but I don't think painting it is the way to go....

Not sure why I never got around to posting in here since I've had an RB30 in the stagea for 8 years now....just got it back from Unigroup after they sorted an exhaust restriction so I thought it was time to post up This is from my rb30 stagea * Rb30 bottom end with forged pistons and rods * Standard stagea head * eboost 2 @ 19psi high boost * Garret GT35R with 0.63 housing (the baby one)...I think! * Generic front facing plenum and stainless high mount manifolds * Larger injectors but stuffed if I know what size or brand. It makes 200awkw @ 4000rpm and 250@6250 with 19psi. Comes on nice and early which is what I was after.

Yes, either the switch or the headlight relay has failed. Can you tell if it is regular or high beam that is stuck on? The relay is easiest to start with and only impacts your high beam flashing. Under the bonnet near the battery is a small black fuse box, find and remove the headlight relay. It is probably brown. If the headlight goes out you just need to replace that relay, and everything is fine to drive in the meantime if you can't get one straight away. If that makes no difference, or if it is the low beams that are on you need to remove the steering column surround to get to the wiring for the headlight switch. Once you get there unplug the wiring from the switch, if the light goes out you need to replace the switch. If that's the problem people like Just Jap keep them in stock because they are failing more often as the cars are 30 years old. If it's not that....head to an auto electrician

I don't know....but I do know you don't need to know the diff ratio to change the engine. you just need to re-use your current sump to keep the current front diff ratio. If no-one knows the answer for sure the quick way is to turn count how many times the tailshaft turns for 1 full turn of the rear wheels. More accurate is taking the rear cover off the diff and reading the number of the diff's pinion gear. My guess is that it's 35/8 ie 4.375. It could also be 37/9 ie 4.1111

cool, pm sent

BTW if someone has a spare ashtray for a 32 gtr I need one! have to keep my maccas change somewhere

And the first button is connected directly to the left hand seat

yes, but "if in doubt, throw it out!" without doing an oil analysis, it's just guessing. While I appreciate OP's effort to bring some science through looking at oil temp, pressure and lost oil, that is really only scratching the surface. On the other hand, an oil analysis is a hell of a lot cheaper than an unnecessary change of these expensive oils. BTW, for road use....use anything and change it often. No point spending $100 on oil changes when it's not getting tested at all.

yeah I didn't get a pic of that. the damn thing was in place to make sure the wiring was long enough but I hadn't cranked down the screw properly. So it looks like it's connected but no dice. I plugged the PFC in because I know the car runs on that, but it did the clicky reset thingy; so I'm pretty sure the problem is with the ECU power supply. I removed the ECCS relay and replaced it with a smartwire feed so I'll check that out when I get a chance. In the meantime the team fabricator finished the carbon fibre work for the switch panel, so I cut the labels and put the switches and lights back in and in place. assuming I've wired everything up OK it should be easy to use and reliable for the life of the car. ignition key is gone too.

well....you start with checking the wheel alignment. If they don't find something wrong make sure you get a print out of the before and after settings and maybe post them up here to see what anyone can spot. nothing wrong with bilstein shocks as such for this use, so their age and valving is a question (although you may not know their history). Also springs; what colour? Do they have any markings? what is the gap between the middle of the wheel and the guard front and rear? Are you sure all bushes are in good condition? common points of wear are the front castor rod bushes, upper arm bushes, front and rear steering inner rack ends and rear steering ball joints. The last in particular can make driving interesting....

well he made a couple of mistakes at the end, but the car he was given was not fast enough to win....that ferrari killed everyone by miles. His best in that car was 2+ seconds slower that the ferrari's best so they weren't even in the same race. I like how SVG handled afterwards too, no big ego dummy spit despite being the current v8 champion and going faster than a lot of fancied international drivers during this race.

lol I don't accept that remark....but it does appear to have the usual wire in to a CAN from the ECU, and they claim it supports Haltech. But who knows exactly what "support" means. I think it looks good, the haltech one looks like it's 15 years old and hasn't been updated since. Assuming you want logging, the software that comes with the dash is very important. I've used the motec and haltech one and the motec one is way easier to use.

yeah, and the ferrari and audis kill it over the top too. interesting how such different approaches end up with similar times. the privateer gtrs are a little disappointing for pace, goes to show the importance of ongoing factory updates considering all 4 are apparently the same race car.