Duncan

Also...is it the only gauge playing up? there could be some sort of earth problem

just have a look for the VIN number on the firewall above the motor. It will be something like BNR32-xxxxxx.

Hi mate, firstly, the 4wd and ABS lights won't come on due to a bleeding problem. But having said that, it sounds like you also have a problem with how the system was bled. Is this car new or have you always had this problem? To bleed it you should fill the reservoir, disconnect that plug which should start the pump, and then open the bleed nipple near the end of the transfer case. Fluid will flow (eventually...), once it is bubble free close the nipple. You may also need to follow the same procedure with the bleeder nipple above the rear driveshaft in the same line. As for the actual problem....when the ABS/4wd lights are on the error code should be flashing on the computer under the rear parcel shelf on (on the right) through a small LED. Check out how many times it is flashing and check which code that is in the GTR workshop manual.

well blow me down. there is a plugged hole on my spare block just above and to the rear of the oil filter block mount on the driver's side. And it looks like the right size for an oil pressure sender although I wasn't able to check

mixed luck today (sorry no pics again). Front brakes are on, and we went to bleed the system. The shiney new braided rear lines proceeded to leak like sieves, need to get some that are actually made properly I think Score 0 on that job. Imagine ebay letting someone down! Testing of the electrics went well, everything was working correctly with no grey smoke. Minor issues with the intercom (mistake with the plug/pins, sorted), the iq3 dash (always on, I've since found where to program that in the smartwire so it comes on with IGN), and the stock dash comes on with ACC instead of IGN (reprogramming smartwire needed). Score +1. Kill switch, ACC circuits (mostly new) and IGN circuits that I've tested so far are all working OK. Once all the circuits have been tested I flushed out the fuel lines, found a couple of fittings I hadn't tightened yet Still on that job, but once it's finished the car should be OK to start up and idle on the haltech base tune. Score +1/2

can you take a pic or describe better where you mean on the block? there is no location to screw a pressure sender to the block, in the standard setup it screws in to the oil/water cooler oil filter mount. there is an oil feed on the passenger side rear but it is generally a turbo oil feed and would be the wrong size for a pressure sender anyway

well I didn't really make a recommendation because it seems to me there are about a billion possible reasons and its very hard to work out which one over the internet. water temp is an input to how rich the ECU runs so there may be simply be a problem with your tune for cold start, or a problem with your water temp sensor. Is the ECU stock? I'm not saying you shouldn't gap your plugs down, that can help point to an ignition problem (plugs, coilpacks, ignitor, resistor pack, wiring). Just that a lower gap is not actually a good thing, it just helps tell you what part of the system is not healthy. Based on the description it could also be a fuel supply problem like a leaky injector as well, it's just hard to guess based on a post and I don't want to mislead you to spending money on a guess And yes, having a spark plug that's not in properly is a problem, but that doesn't mean you should try harder to screw it down; the plug may already be cross threaded. If I were you I'd have a good mechanic look at it

Can you pm me the email you're trying to use; likely you have an old account somewhere as well

lol I surely ain't downgrading to a BMW 7 series! It was just an interesting experience because I had never thought through that (obvious) link between the car's automated systems and the potential impact of a fuse... incidentally the car did throw 3 error codes when this all happened because as far as it was concerned I had tried to start the car without disarming the alarm properly (since that circuit was dead). Quite a dead end there because all the trouble shooting for those errors suggested one of the transponder keys had failed and sent an invalid code, not the issue at all

I don't have any direct experience with having gears cut, and would have tried engineering shops like you did.... But why do you need a custom gear cut? Do you want something special in gearbox or diff ratios? Surely it will be an expensive step

I've been having the issue with the previous reply appearing when I quick reply (although not always). In the reply box it says "your previous content has been restored" so I guess it thinks I never got to submit it, even though I did. Using Chrome.

Hey Martin you'll need to be more specific for us to check it out; which users, and exactly what is happening when they try and log on. If they get a message that they need to validate their email it will be easiest to try that first.

While that is common advice on these cars, actually you should run the largest gap that you can before your car starts misfirining for the best burn and therefore most power. gapping plugs down to 0.8 is just a bandaid for an ignition system that can't keep up at the car's boost level.

Outrageous. Finally completed the final connections for power at the battery, put it in, connected the earth......and the car didn't blow up! Neither did anything bloody work, due to the very simple issue of putting myself in a loop. The kill switch cuts the earth connection from the battery and requires 12v battery feed. I wired that 12v battery feed into the smartwire which doesn't supply power when the earth is disconnected. Anyway, once I ran a temporary wire from the battery to the kill switch power everything started up OK (I'll have to fix that properly later). At which stage I totally scared the shit out of myself because I saw something huge moving in the car and stuff was flying everywhere. I quickly disconnected the battery to make sure it didn't actually burn down until I realised I had just accidentally turned the wipers on sometime in the last 2 years, resulting in tools, wiring, boost lines etc being thrown off the windscreen where I had been safely storing them. Other than that, the first power up was pretty uneventful. The haltech dash is on full time which I'll have to sort and I have about 1000 circuits to test, but so far everything except the kill switch 12v is perfect. Hopefully more updates over the (sort of) long weekend instead of trying to fire up Andrew's car!

so I had a frustrating day with the cima on the weekend, maybe this post will help someone else who has a locked key on an F50 cima. basically, i was changing the courtesy globes on the roof to LEDs when they all stopped working. I figured it was probably a fuse issue for some reason, but before I got to checking it out I went to start the car and found I couldn't turn the key, even when the alarm was disarmed. Dumberly, I then tried the emergency key to start the car which triggered a security light and the car not starting. Went to remove the emergency key and it physically locked me from turning it back to "lock" and removing it. To cut a way frustrating story short, I found a post on a US altima forum about a similar issue that mentioned that the body control module (BCM) fuse controls both the console lights AND the key lock functions. Wasn't the same in the Cima (the BCM was the ONLY fuse marked in english) but I checked all the other BAT fuses and found one of them was blown. Replacing it fixed both the overhead lights and allowed me to remove the emergency key (and start the car with the standard key) which was handy. Bottom line.....the ignition key includes an electric lock, and naturally there is a fuse protecting that system. Once it blew everything went bad. And incidentally the same thing can happen with low battery voltage where the battery allows the systems to start up, but there isn't enough power to undo the key lock if you are trying to withdrawn it.

I'm pretty sure that's what it was, I think you mentioned somewhere else that when x emails are returned the member gets sent back to validating. In my case emails stopped getting to me, my account was set to validating, then last night a flood came through and I was able to validate it.

OK, not sure what that was all about, but a couple of day's backlog in emails came through overnight and I'm able to log in again too....I did have to re-validate but done now.

in my experience amayama will be cheapest anyway....not sure how many people you want to quote it to see if you can save 2 bucks?

It may also simply be a clutch adjustment problem. I'd suggest talking to your mechanic to see what they think too. Depending on the exact clutch and pressure plate, and how your pedal is adjusted it could either be a pedal adjustment or thrust bearing carrier length issue. And also ask exactly what oil they put in, and perhaps check the oil level (open the filler and see if you can touch fluid when you stick your finger in there). Its very unlikely your gearbox suddenly developed an issue the day the clutch was changed....

The turn flasher is on the left of the steering column near the clutch, its a black box with an orange (from memory) mount. If it's no longer right hand drive, it could be anywhere! But it's not part of the fuse box on a 32

Those relays control all the ACC and IGN circuits that run through the fuse box, they are triggered by the key turning. Is there some problem you are trying to track down? BTW everything there looks super neat, clean and unmolested....nice buy!

Honestly I'd just replace it; are you sure 32 and 33 aren't the same? There are some differences in the rear subframe with lower control arm mounting points, but that front one looks the same as a 32 from the pic.

Thanks for being the interpreter Kat....I've reached the end of my amazing administration skills so I'll let Prank have a go next

I can't see anything on his account that would stop him logging in, and he is a full member not validating or anything. Has he tried local machine thingies like deleting local files or using a different machine?

Mebbe....but I think he means the thread where the brake line goes into the caliper. I don't know if they are different but I would have thought 99% they are they same. Maybe see if a tap in the thread cleans it up