Duncan

Well no pics from this weekend although there was a little progress. All of the intake, exhaust, power steer, radiator etc is all back on and ready to go, and I fixed 2 sensor plugs where I had f**k ups because the replacements arrived during the week. Also added rear diff oil, power steer fluid, attessa fluid and coolant....which only really leaves brake fluid, clutch fluid, fuel and windscreen washer to add. Man these cars take a lot of fluid, and will require a shit load of bleeding once everything is running. A while back boxhead asked... I thought it was OK, but it's not. Clearance was fine with just the rear part of the exhaust hung, but with everything bolted up properly it touches by 3-5mm which means I need to move it....just another job for the final tidy up list

No. Firstly the gear ratio is different. You may be able to take the ratios from your 33 diff to fit into the 34 diff. But there are other complexities with replacing a 33 vspec diff, I'm not sure of the details maybe try a search around. 33 vspec have some whiz bang active diff with lots of bits that make it work....

OK, so assuming it starts and drives, you take it to a competent mechanic, (it will probably run poorly when cold so let it warm up for say 5 min). They will say "holy shit, what's this mess", you'll tell them to fix it, they'll pull back the engine loom wrapping far enough to see the colours and will match the wires in that loom to the remaining wires at the manifold that you've pictured, they'll rejoin them all (probably 5 or 6 in total) and everything will be happy again.

I can't help with a pic but hopefully someone can. The only connector you need is for the coolant temp sensor (red). You have the connector (black) for the dash sender, which it may not be repairable due to not enough wire, it can be replaced with a simple crimp connector. The earths are also crimp connectors so nothing special there use a 10mm spanner or socket on the bolts to disconnect them The other part to this puzzle is the wires at the end of your engine loom that used to go to those connectors. Do you have a pic of the end of your engine loom? In any case a reasonable mechanic or auto electrician will sort it out

No, they are not connected. top/black is a coolant sensor for dash, lower/red is a coolant sensor for ECU. the things you marked b are earths. I don't know which colour wire from the engine loom needs to run to each, but you may be able to tell from the remaining wire at the sensor/earth end. Can you just get a new engine loom? And what is it, 33 gtst? Oh btw if it starts and runs, yes you can drive around without them. It won't run properly when cold (because ECU won't know it's cold) and your dash gauge probably won't work

c'mon guys this is a for sale thread not a brakes discussion. I wanted to add some information which might assist the sale but seriously, at $800 this is an awesome deal. I still run ABS in the race car, I have no balance problems or ABS issues although I have chosen to run different pads front and rear. The seller would have to confirm details about the bracket but the one on mine is an excellent piece of 5mm steel angle. Obviously I don't know bolt size on this sale but if it is larger than your hub (ie M14 into M12 hub) you could drill out the hub easily, and if the bolt is smaller than the hub size (ie M12 into M14 hub) then you could do nothing (because it will be fine once torqued) or use 12-14mm sleeves if you are concerned.

hey at least maybe the klm are genuine there then!! Had my Cima at Unigroup this morning to sort the missfire, a new set of plugs have done the trick. Looks like it could do with a tune or similar because it's pretty rich at full throttle with the new exhaust.....here starts that slippery slope again....glad I've never learned my lesson

Or if you look at it another way, all those tools cost less than a race tyre....

I had less options than when I was running the 33/34 Brembos, for instance I could not get my preferred hawk ht-60, however there were still plenty of good brands to choose from; Winmax, Pagid, SBS are ones I've used in them. Its a pretty common porsche caliper not something wierd

Sure is, it a brand new projecta battery box

mmmmm strippers..... This style are good because as well as doing the stripping automatically, there is a plastic guide you can set to consistently strip the same amount of insulation to remove

I'm very happy with my similar setup on the race car, I've run up to 1hr enduro races on them and targas etc with no issues. These are a bargain at the posted price even if they need a reco

lol about time the whales struck back! Anyone got a link to results?

In a CAMS sense, improved production allows an engine swap for same manufacturer/same number of cylinders. but yes you'd need sports sedans for a nissan 4 cylinder in an mx5.

it's a bit of a sidetrack, but this webpage was absolutely awesome and I used a lot of the advice from it for my wiring job https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html Obviously I'm no sparkie but I've done a fair bit of wiring over the years including a bunch of annoying failures when I hadn't done stuff properly and everything those guys said made sense. Doing so much wiring from scratch, particularly when you have "plug and pin" sets mean you can run single new wires from point to point without any dodgy joins. I used: <5a/signal wires: #22 raychem wire and deutsch DTM connectors 5-10a power or earth (almost every power circuit): #20 wire and deutsch DT connectors >10a: #16 wire and deutsch DTP connectors Some bigger wires like main battery and earth I had to run 00 or similar and have a big battery lug crimper for it. For joining any wires (eg factory loom power sources to the smartwire) I used these awesome heatshrink splices. You crimp them down (the usual red/blue/yellow sizes) and then melt the heatshrink to allow glue to support the joint instead of the crimp, they are great. http://www.solidkit.com.au/product/krimpaseal-heat-shrink-crimp-waterproof-butt-splice-joiners-bulk/. I also used a few super helpful reducers in the same stuff eg red to blue or blue to yellow, really helpful for joining 2 wires into 1 where needed. They are semi-transparent so you can see if the wire is seated properly too, Crimping the deutsch terminals is super easy because the tool for each size holds the pin and crimps it in 4 places which is almost impossible to get wrong, I think I literally only stuffed 1 in the entire job. For things like earths I used regular crimp terminals in red/blue/yellow with a ratchet crimper which is much easier than the cheapy plier style ones. I also have a generic crimper for non-insulated terminals which was OK but got very painful by the time I finished all of the smartwire and haltech pins. And the smallest size on this was still to large for the AMP/haltech pins so I needed to tighten each further with pliers which sucked. If I had to do more of them I would have bought the proper tool for these too. All of the gear including the proper crimpers cost a bit but I expect it to be super reliable now. I also used a lot of dual wall / glue lined heatshrink where cables come together and between cables and connectors. Also spiral tubing and electrical tape on longer runs The key idea is to avoid soldering (because it makes wires brittle due to heat and solder's lack of flexibility) and to support the wire other than by the actual join/crimp on the wires (ie by it's insulation/heatshrink/tape/spiral cover etc) to limit the strain on the wires and minimise the chance of the actual wire being damaged. And the other key thing is to test every single connection by giving it a reasonable tug after crimping; if it falls apart now it won't last long on the track.

actually here's a cropped original res pic of the wires, you still can't really read it (phone pic...) but you get the idea. I'm not near the car at the moment to get a better pic but they are very readable

no it's not sold but it is kind of like the red-headed step child, I just don't have time or patience to get to it. It's with the same mechanic it has been (for years) but it will be sold as soon as its running....either the MCM guys want it back or someone else who appreciates some of nissan's most unique engineering.... ryan all the wires are white because I've used Raychem wire everywhere, it's light, strong and has nice thin insulation. But the practical issue is that if you want different colours you'd have to know how much of each colour you need, so instead most race cars just run white and put labels on each wire, I picked up this awesome K-SUN BEE3+ label printer which prints straight onto heatshrink http://www.meter.com.au/labellingproducts/ksunlabelprinters/bee3plusheatshrinktubeindustriallabelprinter/. It's not super clear but in the smartwire pic above you can see every wire has a yellow heatshrink label on it

sounds to me like you have the wrong kit. 32 would definitely be 12mm and 34 is 14mm....I don't know if all 33s are 12mm or maybe they changed along the way somewhere. Either way I'd be trying for a sway to a 32 kit first, but if not I'd happily drill the hub out to 14mm (after all you can always go back to stock because 12mm bolts fit in 14mm holes... Which end of the brake fitting has the wrong end, chassis or caliper end? All the ones I've had a banjo at the caliper end and flare at the car end. When you say the runout is over spec, is that the disc when it is bolted to the hub? it could be the hub or the mating surface that is the issue as much as the disc. I just put a set of these (ATTKD brand) on the cima last weekend and they went on perfectly, 4th set I've bought of these over 10 years now.

Yeah I enjoyed it too, good on Nulon for sticking with the series. it was damn hot though. Are there results posted up anywhere? I want to know if the wiggles are faster than a shopping trolley hatchback And great work Desmond in finishing in the top few cars, the competition has definitely heated up in the last few years

Finished the last of the wiring today with the ECU and I/O expander inputs all sorted. Annoyingly the labeller ran out so I'll have to pull them apart later to label them up properly. So once that was done and the looms tidied (a little), I've put everything back in the car and got everything connected (apart from number plate and reverse lights because the bar is off, and 3 senders because of little things I need to clean up. Just in time really, because today was the last day of the working on the race car marathon, back to work (and normal race car work pace) on Monday. I figured it needs half a day to finalise some stuff for the test, then check all the circuits work as expected. Hopefully next weekend while I can remember everything. Then pull all the looms out again with some notes on where I need to adjust the wrapping for proper fitment...what works on the floor seems to be just far enough off to be impossible once it's back in the car. While that's all out again I'll get the interior painted and exterior straightened and clean up in a few place. Then chuck everything back in and maybe go to an event one day!

lol what March Super Turbo? That is one project too many! You should see what is about to leave the docks

lol good point.

Yeah like Callan said the car must have been running and clutch in for this case. I was thinking steep hill, in gear, clutch out, motor not running

I'm sure 50m won't cause a problem, but potential issue is that the oil pump is running backwards so no oil pressure in the motor for that time.

You can define up to 12 pins with your own switches, either ground = 0 (which I've done for convenience) or 12v = on. You then define the logic for each output to turn on. This is how the fuel pump is defined: Due to wiring on the switch panel, when the ignition is on you can either choose ECU controlled fuel pump (primes when ignition is first turned on, and stops if the engine stops as required by CAMS safety regs) or fuel pump always on for things like draining the tank. When either set of conditions are met the outputs turn on, up to 40A output (for both lift and main pumps). If the 40A is exceeded the dash will show the issue and it will reset a defined number of times until it shuts down, all configurable. This is a pic of all the outputs from my initial testing, at that stage there were no switches attached so only the always on outputs are on.