Duncan

Don't forget to disconnect the exhaust or it will be trying to hold the engine straight. And drop the front subframe bolts down so the engine can tip back further. The input shaft can only ever go in when it is straight to the crank Pig of a job with one person on the ground....going to need lots of patience

Donated! ...now add more bunnings mods!

I don't know what the stock unit weighs....except to say it is surprisingly heavy. there are aftermarket fibreglass options, but a gtr needs weight removed from the front before the rear....

well done to have a keen eye on the gauge, lots of people don't notice until it's too late. while those hoses seem to often be the first ones to go, everything will be a bit old and brittle by now. why not do a full hose replacement kit like this one for fun over the break, or even better give the car and kit to a mechanic in january http://justjap.com/jjr-silicone-engine-heater-hose-set-nissan-rb26dett-r32-gtr-blue.html

If you just want it a little lower for looks, have a small budget, and aren't taking it racing, just put in lowering springs. It won't "kill" your shocks, they just won't be matched perfectly to the springs anymore.....although in any case since it left the factory the springs will have sagged and the shocks will be slowly dying just from age so they aren't exactly what nissan intended any more anyway

I guess 400kw is heading towards the top of what the standard box will take, depending on driving style. I've been racing for with mine for over 10 years at 300kw, and have never broken a box, although I have reconditioned bearings and synchros a few times. But others with 400+ seem to strip gears often. To be fair to the factory bits, you are making about 2.5x the power they were designed for.... Anyway, it looks like it's time to drop 10-20k on an upgraded box. Or keep putting in $800 second hand ones until you get sick of it.

lol the magic of tv!

well obviously it sounds horrible, but it could still be minor to fix like something loose on the pressure plate/clutch assembly. assuming a shop did the reco and install I'd get it back to them....not that they would be around for the next few weeks. other option is take the gearbox off yourself and see what you can find, but in that case you might have difficulty with warranty if it is major. either way i'd call the shop tomorrow and see what they want before they close

Pretty sure it will be a no, sadly. They were excellent for the price

The man to talk to is Mick Hart at NTW, i'd try and do so via our club's contacts first rather than direct if possible. They are the importer and wholesaler and supply via SAU. But you may find they are not imported anymore which would be a shame

lol correct!

Without pressure testing the radiator (a mechanic could do it, takes about 10min) it's hard to be sure there are no leaks. Assuming no leaks, I agree it sounds like a radiator issue and replacing it should be well less than 600. Justjap have them under $250 and it's reasonably easy DIY

well that's the thing about bleed related problems.....everything in the system sensor-wise thinks it's working OK and it tries to send pressure to the actuator, but none arrives. So generally no errors but no 4wd = bleeding issue

In my experience, bleeding at the transfer case resolves 80% of 4wd hydraulic problems.....but it would still be easier to do them both at once than to find out you were in the 20% and had to start again

The pump and accumulator for the transfer case are on top of the rear diff and a real pain to get to. The relays are in the boot under the rear trim next to the boot lock (a pair of black relays together). You may simply have a bleeding issue, there are 2 bleed nipples on the attessa line (one at the rear of the transfer case, one hard to find one above the rear axle); start the car and open the nipple it will bleed through (remember to fill the reservoir in the boot first)

wow. he clearly knows his shit and there is good info in there....but did no-one watch the video before posting and suggest it could have been made clearer? anyway....I'm not saying there is no benefit to something I've never tried, but in 10+ years racing the skyline up to 1 hr enduros I've never had pad knock off, nor have I had a wheel bearing fail. Maybe the z is different to the skyline setup though. I've had plenty of brake problems over the years with boiled fluids, over temp pads, race pads not working on the street, master cylinder leaking etc etc, but never pad knock off. I suspect the skylines just have nice big wheel bearings....not that I ever had the problem in the evo (6hrs) or daewoos (1hr) either

Next steps now that all the major components are in place is to mount a couple more things (dash, intercom, video cam, rallysafe, terratrip etc) and then run all the wiring for all of those + the new sensors for the haltech. But at least it's finally progressing, and I should get more time over xmas to make more progress. In the meantime we also solved one of hillclimbing's major issues......how to get a decent coffee in the middle of nowhere. Thanks to nissan's designers for their usual over-engineering to make that possible....there is a 140a DC/DC converter that is powered by the main battery. As well as coffee the system can provide about 8A@240v for a bit over 24 hours on a fully charged battery for things like keeping the house running in a blackout.

Other than that, the engine bay loom is in place and tidied up, including some new saddle mounts for the starter motor/alternator loom. Also you can see the new kill switch unit in the bottom right (black box with red writing), it is a solid state relay that disconnects the earth from the battery, and sends a kill signal to the PDM or ECU when the internal or external kill button is pushed. Should be more reliable than the usual big switch + pull cable that I used to have I've also added a new grommet in the firewall to deal with some of the new wiring without having to run it through the wheel well. That was a real pain because the firewall is double skinned there with body sealer in between I've also installed the boost logger required for production cars....yes $700 for a unit that logs boost and can't be used for anything else. awesome.

Next up was mounting the ECU etc in the passenger footwell (still in mdf because the carbon fibre fabricator hasn't been around recently), and the power distribution module under the centre of the dash

Also did some mounting brackets so the oil cooler is now properly held in all 4 corners (the workshop that did it originally only had it supported at the top) And I've built a bracket to an LED light bar for night events while everything was apart. 2 uprights into the reo (cut down gudgeon pins because I have so many around) and a second support back to the bonnet latch to make sure it all stays straight (and allows a little up/down adjustment). It will have to run without the grill in place with the light on but airflow is still good which is more important Oh, and I've fitted the new n1/base model headlights with LEDs

RIght-o, time for another burst of updates now my unplanned week off contract is over..... A few years back when I had a rush of castor-rod-break-itis, it really brought home how unprotected the main wiring loom in the driver's side wheel well was. So I took the guard off and have mounted proper cable tie saddles nice and high so I can easily remove/reattach everything there. Once again the rivnut tool was awesome Not so the "stainless" fasteners that we put in a few years ago, they were all rusted in place and one required an easy out to remove (the hardest one to get to of course)....cars have a way of making simple jobs hard...

Well I've got to say I've never used them, and had wondered the same. But for me it feels like a solution to a problem I've never encountered.....

I think it's funny how the 2 simplest corners (that and Hell) are the ones where all the mistakes happen.....the taxis are the same....

What, unexpectedly flashing back 8 years? I wonder if any of those parts ever did turn up....

Good to hear, enjoy the new shocks