Duncan

OK, got it now. You've got the nut off, but the shock is still in place, and you are trying to remove the "bolt" that the bottom of the shock is on. So it's actually a stud, not a bolt, and it's not meant to come off. Just pry lightly between the shock and the upright to push the shock off the stud. A big screwdriver or small pry bar will do it, dead easy.

Thanks for closing the loop on the problem...hooking up the release bearing on a pull clutch is a fiddly bloody thing

Well, take it back for sure to have them have a look.....my first guess would be the pedal bracket may gave snapped which is related to, but not caused by, a heavier clutch... But it could be a bunch of things.....

well I can't see any pics or detailed specs on their website, but since they are at a similar price point to all the other big brake kits (Attkd, G4, D2, Ksport etc), I'll hazard a guess they are the same/from the same factory....in which case I think they are excellent for the price.

Good driving! And I love the way that car picks up speed...even up the hills...must have been fun

well there ya go....I've been using them for years and noticed absolutely no difference!

They look like the same as the AP 6 pot/G4/Attkd/D2 whatever pads to me....like GTSboy said trace them and see. Discs look harder since they are 10 bolt (m6?) and obviously we can't guess the PCD from a pic. Measure the offset and check them against the DBA catalogue to see if anything else will fit? Very likely you will have to change the hats as well, not just the rings I suggest talking to Matt at RaceBrakes in Wetherill Park, he will be able to work out what does or does not fit.

Nismo engine mounts are identical to standard engine mounts in size. Apparently they are a little harder but I've never noticed the difference

if you take the cas out and spin the shaft with the ignition on, do you get rpm on the adaptronic, and injectors clicking? that's the easy place to start

I totally don't understand that pic. Are you trying to remove the shock? If so could you provide a pic of the bottom of it?

I just go to Gary's or Gordon and get raped like everyone else. Sometimes when they are a control tyre there is a discount of something like $5 per tyre so they are only 550 each. The guys with the fastest tyres (Z221 and A050) know it, and charge accordingly. second tier tyres are much cheaper at about 350-400ea so if you don't need outright pace go for something else. The official distributors have a nice tight monopoly. Yes you can import them if the even doesn't need marked tyres (most control tyre events do) but how long are you willing to wait....

jesus that car is slow....how'd you stay awake on conrod? you'll have more fun with something with a few more ponies

umm yeah I suspect it might be showing up a lack of power there....must be frustrating to watch 86s drive past. it is an awesome track though, great to see such an accessible way to get a run there

well it looks like snowy should be happy with the sprint, he got 2.25.4 well done! I saw a few other familiar names in there but most of them aren't on SAU I think. Fastest lap was still well over 2min (2,.04.2 in the m6) so that target is still standing for now....

easiest way to be sure is remove one bolt from your caliper and measure whether it is 12mm (r33) or 14mm (r34) diameter. Keeping in mind you could choose to run 33 size / 12mm in either hub with spacers (or whatever else) around the bolt to locate it. my guess is S1.5 will be 14mm, my late model, s1 was....

moved....and thanks for the detailed post!

Did you try pushing it

+1. There's nothing wrong with the stock setup, billions of people run them making gigawatts of power. the problem is elsewhere in your driveline, probably just a bent input shaft during installation

something like this works if you want premade, but it is very expensive for a switch and a variable resistor http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GTR-Torque-Split-Controller-TSC-GTS4-GTS-4-RB26-Stagea-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-/112202649387?hash=item1a1fcc8f2b:g:DfMAAOSwj0NUkhmB

All you need for a burnout is a switch on the ATTESSA fuse. Turn it off an you will have 2wd. Stop moving and turn it back on (don't forget) and you have 4wd back. You shouldn't use it for dynoing the car in 2wd but it would be sufficient for a burnout for a second or 3. 33/34 attessa systems will burn out clutch packs in 2wd if you leave it too long

hmmm the only think I can think of that is less like a open wheeler or lightweight n/a than and evo would be a gtr. very different direction....

that really is taking individually constructed vehicles too far

It's so hard for us oldies to keep up with acronyms, in my day that meant I'd Tap That, but turn out is also means Intense Testicular Tension. http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=itt Thanks Internet

people with open wheelers don't have mates

respraying panels in the same colour or the whole car is straightforward and will cost a couple of thousand, however changing the entire (external) colour is a huge job because of all of the small fiddly areas like filler carp, door jambs, boot etc etc. Also your engine bay colour and paint code on the VIN plate will not match the exterior which most people will take as a sign of major repair or even rebirthing re engine rebuild, I wouldn't do it unless you are trying to fix a problem. Cost varies hugely by what needs to be done, and since the rebuild only replaces internals you won't see any difference in the engine bay unless you do further work at the same time (eg power coating rocker covers, replacing rubber hoses, replacing or polishing hard lines So maybe just take it out and enjoy it instead?? A professional polish and detail ($500+) will work wonders