Duncan

you are wrong more often than Pete these days old man http://www.azlyrics.com/lyrics/killers/human.html But I guess the point is, like mathew said, talent is not an automatic inclusion with a more expensive car. If an Excel was 0.1sec off a Radical I hope the radical was stuck in 2nd

That's like asking are we human, or are we dancer. Why can't we just be both?

Evil Chris went from a 33 to a mx5 a few years back, would be interesting to hear his view.

oh and good luck at Bathurst Pete, I'd love to run the GTR up there sometime, the emo 9 really ran out of legs on conrod compared to other cars

intriguing.....

well it can be done from below, easiest on a hoist and with the starter motor out. japanese sized hands would help. prepare for skinned knuckles....

well sorry to increase the bad news, but you also need to replace the gearbox input shaft at a minimum if that has been chewed out because it will destroy a new spiggot bush straight away like that. It is reasonably easy to bend the input shaft installing the engine if you are not careful, perhaps that is what happened. But you should also test the crank with a dial indicator on the rear where the flywheel bolts on to make sure that is not the issue.

fark that's $125 more than I've ever won.....your shout next time!

all the rb (and a number of other nissans including r31 skyline and older navaras) use the same spiggot bush and they are readily available from nissan for a couple of $$. But it is highly unlikely your spiggot is the problem; more likely it will be the input shaft (or perhaps crank?) is not straight. I'm not at all familiar with the pull type clutches, but the input shaft pic you have posted looks very different to all the push type clutch shafts I've seen; they have a straight nose all the way to the end while yours has an obvious step. Is it damaged?

wow....that is a long suspension I can also confirm extensive testing of multi-year PFC disconnection without issue, sadly

Wow a car that still has HICAS! Anyway, that is the AAC and the idle screw is on that. It may be the screw in your red circle (hard to tell in that pic). Depending on how standard your car is, the ECU also has an idle adjust screw and the throttles themselves could be adjusted. If you have developed a high idle, its more likely you have an air leak somewhere in the intake. AAC should never really need adjustment unless you've just given it a full clean out internally

Pete your entry looks wrong, it says skyline not filthy cheater evo? Its a good long entry list overall, so hopefully the event will last a few years unlike last time. Some very fast stuff in the supersprint group too...

gives you something to overtake.....you should have seen how many 86s and commodores were in the 6 hours...

It sounds like you aren't super confident, so one way to be sure would be to get a mobile thread repair guy to come out and fix it. Otherwise, if part of the fitting is sitting outside the hole you may be able to get at it with vice grips or similar, or you can use an easy-out (carefully because it's just brass) if you have space to get at it. You may find the broken part is not that hard to back out because it will be a tapered fitting.

So are repco covering all your costs? Or is that yet to be seen?

Unhelpful post removed.

m8x1.25, should be able to find them at any hardware, or re-use one you have lying around

and here it was, 2nd last post

Roy I saw just recently someone posting up a flange adapter....have a search in the last month or 2

It is almost certainly a problem with the water pump install, so take it back and get them to look at it. Other possibilities for loosing all water are a split hose somewhere (which may have been disturbed during the timing belt change, but that's not really their fault). It won't be a head gasket leak, they won't happen externally (ie they will either leak into the cylinder then exhaust, or into the oil). If your mechanic is within a couple of minutes of home just drive it there, the engine will take at least 5 min to get hot without coolant. Keep an eye on the oil temp and stop driving if it gets to normal temp. Otherwise give the mechanic a call and ask them how to get it back to them, since it is likely to be their error.

That track looks like a lot of fun, although very tight for something big like a skyline. Give em hell tomorrow!

I use it between both the pad and the shim, and the shim and the piston. anywhere that could vibrate basically

A long way physically but a short way logically :).....attessa needs power and earth to operate

Firstly, I think you are mad driving 15miles with something clearly broken in the driveline. But hey, it's your car I'd agree with GTSBoy that it is most likely front CV/hub/etc because it was related to turning the steering wheel. It's unlikely but not impossible for it to be a transfer case problem (eg a broken transfer chain which I had once) but no matter what it is, something broken enough to stop the car moving needs to be identified and addressed ASAP. If you can't do it take it to a competent mechanic

(assuming it's a 33 gtst....) I don't have the 33 pin outs, but pages BF-34 to BF-49 in the 32 GTR manual have a pinout for the 8 pin amplifier in the 32, might be a worthwhile starting point. 3 and 4 are IGN 12v, 7 is earth, Up button sets 1 and 8 to earth, down button sets 2 to earth, 5 and 6 to the motor.