Duncan

you want something like this:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Laser-Tools-Drain-Plug-Key-8-13mm-Sq-1578-/380694570644?hash=item58a32a2694:g:pXcAAOxyD9JSA6YZ 13mm square drive drain plug tool. I bought a whole kit but have never used any o f the other fittings..... The breather is a fitting on the top of the diff on the right side rear. Looks like a little cap but the top part opens a couple of mm under pressure, assuming it's not blocked.

I don't think breathing is that unusual, and particularly with redline shockproof. I run an extended breather in the race car and have no issues, so either go that way or just clean the underside and top up the diff every now and then

you know, I'm not sure, but I've never had it plugged it Actually I thought it might go to the HICAS solenoid from factory but I can see you have that installed and the plug still isn't attached so it's not that either. Tuck it out of the way and never wonder about it again.... BTW wiring diagram with indicative plug shapes are on pages 783-784 of the gtr service manual. it may be related to auto trans cars

well sort of why I was wondering about the timing belt. Pretty much the only way to do that sort of damage is for the harmonic balancer bolt to be loose resulting in it moving around at 7,500 revs which is not exactly good for the front of the crank. Presumably you heard a noise and had the balancer removed. Personally I would go and talk to the mechanic who did the timing below, they *may* help out especially by claiming on their own insurance. If they don't and you want to fight you would need at a minimum receipts for the work and an engineer's report linking the damage to a probably loose crank bolt. And no your car insurance doesn't cover mechanical failures

sorry to hear that, it's always sad to loose an engine, especially your first. Was the timing belt ever changed, and do you know by who? Cheapest way out would be to swap to another second hand motor, will probably cost 2-5k depending what you pay for the motor and how much labour you have to pay for. To repair this motor you would replace the crank, and probably rings, bearings and oil pump while it's all apart. I wouldn't weld up the crank personally, although I know it has been done, these are long engines and if the crank is bent at all you will spin a bearing soon after anyway

why would it be connected?

Ok, a little more progress over the weekend. The fuel breather system is complete: In summary I've joined removed all of the factory breathing and charcoal canister and binned it (saved a little weight, and a little complexity. Capped 2 vacuum lines on the engine that are no longer required. Joined the 2 breathers on top of the tank to this valve as mentioned earlier that opens under vacuum (ie when the pump is pushing fuel out of the tank) and under pressure (ie to vent it when the fuel expands like when being parked in the sun). Valve is an ATL ATLTF-AF-009, and the vent is an ebay plastic vent designed for boat tanks I think (it has a small mesh inside the breather to keep stuff out). They are mounted behind the tank in the driver's side inner guard using a generic 38mm fuel filter clamp for the valve, and a custom ally bracket for the vent. Fits just outside the bodywork but well out of the way with the bar on (yes....the cars has picked up some stone chips over the years....) In total, the rear fuel system now has: -6 e85 safe teflon braided lines (no factory hoses left) 18x various -6 fittings and adaptors 10 hose ends with hose clamps (on the low pressure/return and lift pump sections) e85 sensor fuel cooler lift pump in standard cradle in tank (don't know what it is) surge tank under the rear seat floor 044 main pump fuel pressure sender main filter mounted next to hicas cylinder secondary filter near the subframe between main pump and fuel rail In the engine bay there will be the supply line and return line with a T to the fuel sampler fitting. Also I finished up some minor but pretty much the last parts of the rear; rebuilt shocks, springs back in, and rear brakes with new seals and heat dispersing paint back on. Just need the rear brakes lines and I'm all done back there; we no longer need to use rubber brake hoses so I'm switching to braided in the rear.

It looks like sat nav...http://yahoo.aleado.com/lot?auctionID=e177049542.

don't worry, the 2x ball joint type are OEM style in lots of applications including GTR front. They do wear out and start to bind or clunk though, and I guess are more expensive

Sad but true. But they are oh so soul-less. Just press the right button for the track you are on and let it go

You know me too well Charles, actually I recently gave up on a 4wd Cima after Iron Chef couldn't find a good one in 12 months of auctions. The Cima I drive to work has been awesome and I think would make a good tow car in 4wd. Anyway this so this is what I'm going for instead or something similar anyway.

Pretty much any larger radiator will require the shroud to be trimmed away to clear it, no point replacing the shroud or fan as it will just happen again....

Oh FFS Kel just ruined the ending of the Brock movie for me

sadly it seems pay tv has removed the opportunity for back to back races this year......

Personally, I only know I've never had trouble with attessa failing or changing, even during a long (1hr) race. I guess it doesn't work very hard (obviously the fluid *inside* the case is a different story, but they are separate)

take off the door card (a few screws and clips, including screws inside the door handle) and then pull it upwards. then you need to remove the actuator arms at the lock (they hold on with plastic clips). careful not to break them, they can be brittle. then a couple of 10mm nuts to undo the door handle. once the handle is out you'll see the door lock is held in by a spring, easy to pull out then they cylinder will slide through. (that's for r32 BTW, your profile doesn't say what you drive)

manual says 1.8l

they never fail to let us down....why show talking instead of the 86 trophy race? at least they put the muscle cars on anyway...tv check. couch check. munchies check. beer check. ready for bathurst day!

did you hardwire your seat to the car? strange choice......just head to jaycar or car parts place and buy a plug and socket with the right number of wires. do you know the airbag is OK in the seat you bought? if you dont want to use it, a resistor between the 2 wires is the way to go. There are a couple of threads about potential resister sizes, each car is different. If you can't work it out you can buy a variable resistor to find the right size, or I have one you can use if you are in Sydney (your profile doesn't say) BTW, seats look great

if you are keen to fully empty it, instead of using the bleed nipple pull the large line (of the pair) off the hard line under the car above the subframe (just near the fuel filler)

I know it's not great news, and no you are not lost, they are pretty much your choices. I'd either buy a different block (probably cheapest option) or buy a new cradle if that's an option (I assume its aftermarket and a different style). If you choose the latter you need to get the block tunnel bored which I don't really like in these engines because it moves the crank relative to the oil pump

you totally delivered on that

lol pics or it didn't happen

Yeah I take it that it does a better job too, even if the radical is nice and light....

Hmm I just bought a new tow car myself.....after all this time I still get impatient waiting for shipping and compliance....