Duncan

Yes, either the switch or the headlight relay has failed. Can you tell if it is regular or high beam that is stuck on? The relay is easiest to start with and only impacts your high beam flashing. Under the bonnet near the battery is a small black fuse box, find and remove the headlight relay. It is probably brown. If the headlight goes out you just need to replace that relay, and everything is fine to drive in the meantime if you can't get one straight away. If that makes no difference, or if it is the low beams that are on you need to remove the steering column surround to get to the wiring for the headlight switch. Once you get there unplug the wiring from the switch, if the light goes out you need to replace the switch. If that's the problem people like Just Jap keep them in stock because they are failing more often as the cars are 30 years old. If it's not that....head to an auto electrician

I don't know....but I do know you don't need to know the diff ratio to change the engine. you just need to re-use your current sump to keep the current front diff ratio. If no-one knows the answer for sure the quick way is to turn count how many times the tailshaft turns for 1 full turn of the rear wheels. More accurate is taking the rear cover off the diff and reading the number of the diff's pinion gear. My guess is that it's 35/8 ie 4.375. It could also be 37/9 ie 4.1111

cool, pm sent

BTW if someone has a spare ashtray for a 32 gtr I need one! have to keep my maccas change somewhere

And the first button is connected directly to the left hand seat

yes, but "if in doubt, throw it out!" without doing an oil analysis, it's just guessing. While I appreciate OP's effort to bring some science through looking at oil temp, pressure and lost oil, that is really only scratching the surface. On the other hand, an oil analysis is a hell of a lot cheaper than an unnecessary change of these expensive oils. BTW, for road use....use anything and change it often. No point spending $100 on oil changes when it's not getting tested at all.

yeah I didn't get a pic of that. the damn thing was in place to make sure the wiring was long enough but I hadn't cranked down the screw properly. So it looks like it's connected but no dice. I plugged the PFC in because I know the car runs on that, but it did the clicky reset thingy; so I'm pretty sure the problem is with the ECU power supply. I removed the ECCS relay and replaced it with a smartwire feed so I'll check that out when I get a chance. In the meantime the team fabricator finished the carbon fibre work for the switch panel, so I cut the labels and put the switches and lights back in and in place. assuming I've wired everything up OK it should be easy to use and reliable for the life of the car. ignition key is gone too.

well....you start with checking the wheel alignment. If they don't find something wrong make sure you get a print out of the before and after settings and maybe post them up here to see what anyone can spot. nothing wrong with bilstein shocks as such for this use, so their age and valving is a question (although you may not know their history). Also springs; what colour? Do they have any markings? what is the gap between the middle of the wheel and the guard front and rear? Are you sure all bushes are in good condition? common points of wear are the front castor rod bushes, upper arm bushes, front and rear steering inner rack ends and rear steering ball joints. The last in particular can make driving interesting....

well he made a couple of mistakes at the end, but the car he was given was not fast enough to win....that ferrari killed everyone by miles. His best in that car was 2+ seconds slower that the ferrari's best so they weren't even in the same race. I like how SVG handled afterwards too, no big ego dummy spit despite being the current v8 champion and going faster than a lot of fancied international drivers during this race.

lol I don't accept that remark....but it does appear to have the usual wire in to a CAN from the ECU, and they claim it supports Haltech. But who knows exactly what "support" means. I think it looks good, the haltech one looks like it's 15 years old and hasn't been updated since. Assuming you want logging, the software that comes with the dash is very important. I've used the motec and haltech one and the motec one is way easier to use.

yeah, and the ferrari and audis kill it over the top too. interesting how such different approaches end up with similar times. the privateer gtrs are a little disappointing for pace, goes to show the importance of ongoing factory updates considering all 4 are apparently the same race car.

I guess that hole wasn't quite wide enough for a GTR.... And the lead nimso car is in the garage too

Bathurst is on! So the big bathurst race is on today. 52 cars on the grid so 12 hours of interest ahead still

do those ball joints on a hoist mate, they are an absolute arsehole to get out. And yes they can make the rear end horrible when they are flogged out. adjustable traction arms only help manage bump steer. the upper control arm controls camber but the traction rod changes the angle of the hub under bump. there is little point changing it unless you're also going to do the full bump steer measurements and adjustments

you'll have to describe what is happening with the factory jack more clearly. It's a mechanical screw that basically can't fail. Yes it might be slow but that's the downside of such a simple and reliable design

BTW remove the negative terminal first, you are much less likely to short anything out removing the positive that way

red circle on the problem? is a "deep socket" what you need?

The wire goes between the 2 wires in the plug. If you have 4 wires you need 2 resistors and to work out which pairs go together

Yeah look the basic issue is you are trying to go lower than the geometry allows for. suppliers have worked that out and don't make it because few people really want such a big drop, and those that try it will generally be unhappy with the results. It's your call for sure, but there's a reason people don't make that drop off the shelf. If you want to go there you'll need custom springs, and the standard shocks (or kyb or similar stock replacements) will not be firm enough to suit so the ride will be bouncy. If you want to go that low with well matched shocks and springs you should go aftermarket airbags. If you want to go that low and have it handle OK (eg not be unpredictable under bumps) it would cost 000s in custom suspension geometry. Basically, if you want to go this way just buy cheap coil overs, drop them as low as possible and see what you think. springs and shocks need to work together, and standard shocks will not support what you are looking for.

do you have a hand controller as well? If you go under sensor check you can see which sensor is causing the check light. my guess would be it won't cause the light because it would just read a broken wire as some sort of very low temp. but that's just a guess....

girdle bolts are awesome for that job if you have spares

Christian another user lost access here; looks like email issue is continuting....

Looks like either you or someone else got the button before I had to, is everything working now?

Just read that manual, the top 4 pins on the connector are the 4 i mentioned, and page 15 says just choose the "ECU mode". Looks like it should just work......

It's likely to be quite simple, generally a CAN connection only needs 4 wires (power, earth, hi and low CAN signal). If they say the dash understands haltech it's likely to be as easy as making the connection and choosing some sort of "read CAN" option on the microtech But i haven't specifically worked with those 2, I used haltech and iq3 dash.