Duncan

Chris at craved did mine too, great job, he used a heat radiating powercoating

thanks mate but I'm pretty sure its the same source (pdf manual) that I had....check out p777 the detail isn't readable and the one you posted doesn't say which fuse is which, it just shows there is a fuse

well, judging from his youtube, he not only sped through a school zone, but did it sideways on the grass.... ....so, fun, presumably.....

yeah and the outer rods ends off the hub. but it's all pretty straightforward.

Firstly, if anyone has a readable copy of the GTR wiring diagram I'd love a copy! Fuse 7 (IGN) seems to connect to: Exhaust temp sensor HICAS computer Steering angle sensor A/T ECU (GTS4 only) I take it that the actual issue is that the car doesn't start with that fuse blown? If so there is more to it than what I just listed, like I said the diagram in the PDF manual is pretty much unreadable (its on page 777 if you want to try, top leftish marked IGN #7 10A, also joins to 20 on page 780 (also top left, marked IGN #7) but none of HICAS or the EGT sensor is required to start the car. BTW it's very likely your EGT sensor is also disconnected, it lives in the cat from factory and is not reinstalled in most cars when a custom cat/zorst is installed. Plug is probably unplugged under your passenger seat somewhere Also it's possible the fuse problem is not the cause of your car not starting, could be a goose chase...

Yes

holy shit! great work doesn't even start to cover that! what was the firewall from, out of interest? And is it a totally custom dash?

I mustn't have been clear enough. No chatting in FS threads, if you want a discussion of different blocks start a thread to so so elsewhere. Next off topic or chatting posters will be warned and/or banned.

While its an F50 not an M35, I have a very similar screen and software, still in jap, and I use it all the time on the fuel economy screen. No need to be aggressive in dismissing the questions from a new member just because you don't agree....why not just make your point politely and leave it at that?

Thanks for closing the loop, and good advice on how to deal with a similar issue. Given that the tribunal has ruled on this issue, who was the workshop that did the faulty work?

I don't know specifically about dr 30 transmissions, but the numbers you posted above (3201007S61 for 83 cars prior to August and 3201007S60 for August 83 to 85 ) is the nissan part number. Sadly the full nissan part number is not generally not stamped on a part, but using Nissan Fast you can find the correct part number for any given VIN code and also there is no reverse lookup from the part number to donor cars either

good luck up there, enjoy the skids

I'd start with checking the bulb, it's likely missing or burned out, and it's possible VDC comes on because the MIL globe is not working (since you obviously can't show a failure of the MIL light using the MIL light). So best case, nothing is wrong at all except that. I take it there is no sign of any problem except the lights and the P0650 using the scan tool. And Callan thanks for the link, I never realised OBD codes were common (although it makes sense, since they are designed to allow non manufacturers to service cars). I assume not all codes are common to all cars though because many cars have specific or even unique functions.

oh BTW....keep in mind, no-one ever ran in your factory diff....they just bolted it in, delivered the car to the first owner and told us to change the oil after 40,000klm or similar. That includes factory mechanical diffs in the GTR,

Terry at award gearboxes in sydney simply recommends light load (no skids, no towing etc) for first 500klm then an oil change, he is also strong on never using synthetic diff oil as it can be too slippery and lead to glazing of the gears (he correctly guessed I used to use synthetic by looking at the wear on my race car's diff). Of course mine is a race and and it won't get any break in....I'll just change the oil after the first day.

More than enough chatting in this thread thanks. If you want to buy this block or clarify something about it, this is the place for it. If you want a billet or n1 block please find a relevant thread

I'm sorry I can't help with which specific brake lines will fit, but you will be able to remove the remainder of the hard lines in the caliper by just undoing the nut. Once you, if you look inside the caliper you will see there is a cone shaped fitting that the hard line seals to. If you don't remove that fitting you can use a brake line with a flared end. If you remove that fitting you should use a brake line with a banjo bolt and copper washers. The lack of hard line only impacts the length of the brake line you need. Start by seeing if your standard lines are long enough and you'll be able to decide how long you need from there.

No you do not need to change them both; but it is much cheaper and easier to do it while the drive shaft is out if you have any doubts about the outer one. eg $150 to change one boot or $160 to change both including R&R....

Well I hope one of the forum members more familiar with M35s can help with where to source a second hand starter and get it shipped out there. Alternatively, while your local guy may not have parts on the shelf it will be no harder to rebuild than any other starter once the right parts are there. There is absolutely no problem with using a turbo on dirt roads etc, just think of all those turbo diesel utes and trucks running around. You would need to replace or clean your air filter more often but hopefully whoever services the car will have that under control. There are 2 series of Stageas, C34 (earlier) and M35 (later), while they are similar from a marketing point of view (mid/large wagons) the platforms they are built on is very different, so any threads you see about C34 is unlikely to be directly relevant to your M35. While it's a bit touchy, I think everyone here could agree that C34s are easier to modify, and M35s are nicer and more comfortable. The main thing you may notice about any stagea is the fuel economy is not awesome, parts can sometimes be tricky (as you've found) but nothing impossible. I think M35 stageas have issues with air flow meters (maybe carry a spare) and turbos (replace yours if it hasn't been done yet) but are otherwise reliable, but again the forum members more familiar with M35s could confirm

that seems like a reasonable price to reco or replace a starter motor. some failures are more common when cold, others when hot. genuinely random failures are less likely and will probably become more common until that really annoying time when you end up stuck I just did the one on my C34 because it was failing when hot (but it is manual so I could clutch start....) the job is easy enough for any mechanic, probably 30min in and out. I'd take it to someone more familiar with imports and see if they know where to find a new one or repair it cheaper; whereabouts in NSW are you?

got a pic of the relay mount? generally nissan use one of a couple of standard relays so you can swap in a spare from elsewhere

lol by my count I am 3-0 up in this thread so far (seized pistons, coolant leak and brakes not bled properly).....but no magical crystal ball, I've just had all those problems over the years. And I can add that the noise you are describing (whirring noise when foot on the clutch, regardless of gear/neutral, no noise in neutral with foot off the clutch) is your thrust bearing being a little worn. Just live with it until you next replace your clutch. And your engine will be fine, you would have noticed problems straight away like smoke or water vapour at the exhaust. You could check the torque of your head bolts but I'll bet they are fine too. I've had a engine at 132o without killing it, the heat would either warp or crack the head gasket which would lead to a major oil and/or water leak. A compression test would confirm no lasting damage if you are worried

Hi mate, what is the symptom of the problem, who diagnosed it, and did they say exactly "starter relay"? It's possible there may be a starter relay causing a problem, but if someone has diagnosed that they would also spend 4 seconds replacing it for 4 cents. More likely it needs a new/reconditioned starter motor because the solenoid on the starter motor has failed. Any auto elec or mechanic should be able to take it out and have it reconditioned in a day.

yeah but this is for a 2wd not 4wd as the 4wd bearing is held by the nut at the end of the driveshaft, so GTR manual not helpful When you can't find a specific torque work from the diameter of the bolt/stud it is going on, 200ft/lb is about right for an M18 bolt assuming 8.8 strength

that I remember like it was yesterday, it took ages to get to the bottom of that; but it was not necessarily due to heat on that track day, more likely seals that had gone bad over time with water in the fluid etc; we don't really know the history of our cars before they left japan. lucky we aren't talking about flywheels, right? anyway, I'd still start with bleeding for sure...eric let me down (he only shows 1 person) but chris shows how to do it: