Duncan

never heard of anyone killing their MC seals with heat, I sure didn't with multiple skylines doing billions of laps. Frankly I'd suggest you bleed it, it's a skill worth having and you'll know its done right. The glazed pads can give you a horrible wooden feel, but a squishy pedal is always a bleeding/air problem.

Yeah that's why I suggested a leak "somewhere", it works exactly like you said....slowly disappears without you noticing until there isn't enough coolant left to circulate and temps suddenly go ballistic (because no coolant is actually circulating). I've had the head to 132o and got away with it, I guess you'll be fine. You can always do a compression test if you are worried. On the others 1. No real sign of a leak, discolouring is normal. In any case pressure test the coolant system to about 1.2 bar to make sure there are no other issues. That first pic is the oil return. 2.No idea what that is, but its not necessarily a sensor...could also be a diode or resistor. Could also be the ambient temp sensor for the A/C but I have NFI 3. I'd replace the fan. Looks like the viscous coupling may have been overtightened to the fan leading to cracks there. You dont want it to let go at 7000rpm. 4. Not sure what that is either but unlikely to be brakes (that will run down driver's side I think). Maybe part of the fuel breathing system. No need to touch it if there's no problem 5. They wont really unglaze on their own, more likely to damage the discs running them like that. Give them a good rub on rough concrete then bed them in again. The pedal is probably fluid; bleed it through with good quality fluid like motul RBF

Is the current engine a single cam rb30 with that gear on? That may make it harder, the inlet and exhaust manifolds may have different bolt patterns because of the different head. If someone doesn't know for sure you can always look at an rb30 vs rb25 inlet and exhaust gasket, that will tell you if the mating surfaces and stud locations are the same. Injectors you would have to check if original rb30 ran side feeds in the same size as rb25 I don't know the microtech but again generally the ECU follows the head because that's where all the sensors are; you may well have to change this or at least the engine wiring loom as well

that's a total arsehole of a job; well done doing it on the car without a press

Crappy way to end a day, eh? Too hard to guess on an overheating issue, too many potential causes. Most likely some sort of leak which you can tell by pressure testing the system.

That's a pretty aggressive post considering the unusually polite nature of this thread in the circumstances....go and have a look at some older threads where workshops have ripped people off if you'd like a contrast.

This is probably going to sound odd....but assuming you are doing a rebuild but want to keep the price down, check out the cost of brand new pistons and rings from nissan, they were quite reasonable last I checked. Also FWIW, rods are generally reusable (and will be obvious if they aren't), and so is the oil pump unless the motor spun a bearing. Second hand oil pumps are a minefield because its hard to tell if they are in good condition

Nissan (annoyingly) have both a part code, usually 5 digits although those pics show a 7 digit number, and a part number which is in the format xxxxx-xxxxx like Stripey posted. The part number is what you need to match or order an exact part, the part number is generally the same or similar across all models and you need something like NIssan FAST, together with your specific VIN# to turn it into a part code. Frustratingly I am not aware of any way to reverse search from a part number to the other cars that used the part, although the data must be in FAST...

The nuts on the top of the shock only stop the shock falling out when the suspension is at full droop (eg off the ground or on very uneven ground). If your shock didn't fall out there is nothing to worry about.

Oh BTW, I googled the question and didn't get this answer. Well actually I did because this thread exists but I didn't see the answer elsewhere in the first few pages. People should feel able to ask questions here, it's why the forum exists.

Why the rudeness? If it's too far below you to answer a question without the sarcasm, then don't....

well in that case 32vspec/33/34 GTR used 324x32, why not just use that size and choose from the billion off the shelf options?

unless you are racing the tomei baffle is enough, but the n1 pump has had some bad outcomes, I'd suggest aftermarket gears at a minimum and preferably a nitto or tomei pump

I spotted 25 NEO, stalking me in my driveway! good to meet you

good to see you fixing all the old dodginess, although I'm not sure corolla spec parts are an upgrade. the other thing you should do while it is all apart is take the sump off, upgrade the oil pump and put drop some baffles in the sump. Not much extra work or money from where you are now, but great for peace of mind

Yeah I guess the diff lock button must be a 260RS thing because all the other models have them; strange to exclude because I wasn't aware of any other difference in the ATTESSA system. The only switches normally on the roof are sunroof or courtesy lights

well, at least you're on the right forums now. and your engine is in the usual GTR location (on a stand) It might just be the pics but the timing belt looks worn; unless you know for sure when it was last done it is a good time to do the belt, idler and tensioner bearings, idler stud and water pump

not sure I caught that; are you looking for custom 330mm rotors because you have a custom setup? hopefully the offset you chose for the dogbones matches something already in the market or you will have this problem every time you want rotors. Assuming it is custom you should get something like ATTKD rotors/rings without hats and then have the hat made in the right offset so you don;t have the issue again.

lol yep, the only way to tell what it does is to see what doesn't work with it off, or pull the panel and trace the wires.

I understand they are the same, I could check if you have a VIN for your car and a 260RS. But generally it is easiest to just pull your existing one out and reco it, should only take a day or 2.

Oh its also a long shot, but I an ex-nissan engineer in contact also remapped an attessa ECU for us once (although that car is no more). It is likely there is a difference in the maps in standard vs N1 computers in R32s. Again, I don't have exact details of what was changed

I've never replaced the stock computer because I've found it fine with a piggyback controller modifying the lateral G sensor. While I can't confirm the list you had above for fullrace, the standard one uses all those inputs + the 4 ABS/wheel speed sensors. Generally the standard system gives more 4wd with throttle, much more with rear wheel spin. The main input seems to be the Long g sensor (more acceleration = more FWD, braking = less) modified by the Lat G sensor (less FWD with more cornering with the intention that it remains "balanced" like a rwd car in corners. The standard system is a little slow (which the motec would fix) and too conservative with 4wd in corners (which we fixed with the piggyback). BTW the group A cars did not use the standard computer but I don't know what the actual technology was....it had multiple maps controlled by switches It will be interesting to see what you think is effective in your mapping vs what Nissan did.

They take pads for the AP racing 6 spot calipers, common motorsport size with lots of options but I don't have a part#

While I've got some sympathy for any people working there who didn't know about any issues, I'd be more worried about the 73 people who bought illegal cars. What was done and have they all been compensated by the business? Have the cars been made legal somehow?

lol you should probably say, or update your sig then (edit: make that profile, I can sort of see it in your sig now) you are probably limited to 8" on the front of a 33 gtst unless you are putting larger guards on, and that means no larger than 245s. as for brand I'd just ring the local motorsport suppliers and see what they have....I haven't bought slicks for years but I think they are worth considering for track only