Duncan

I'm sure Terry can clarify, he used to plug JLM a lot. It could be another business on the same street so no point jumping to conclusions

"hate with a passion" is pauline re a muslim, not the feedback on NT01 in this thread. but anyway if i was running a trailered to the track car I'd be buying cheap slicks. They are likely to be cheaper and longer lasting for the same grip than any semi slick. you just run the risk of leaving it on the trailer if it rains all day. Oh, and if you have a 33 gtr for track only it should run 285 or 295 front and rear with a set of rims that suit. that gives you best traction and the ability to rotate to all 4 corners. 17s are always cheaper than 18s in the same width, so if they clear the brakes 17s are the way to go. victory to the marketing department for charging more for less rubber....

Strange that the business is not named

Did you definitely plug it back in properly? If not connected you would get the results you are seeing (ie as it doesn't open, the engine will idle lower due to the load)

What makes the Spec clutch shit so it needed to be changed out? And those comments on the nismo clutch all look like opinions not facts other than the claim it worse "quickly", whatever that is. I can't even imagine what "launching well" means; a clutch either grips or slips, and if it slips it either recovers well or it doesn't. I can't think of any negative feedback I've seen from Coppermix users, except for complaints about the price!

That seems a bit odd, why would the pick up point be any different? Is the pressure place a non-standard height? In any case, if it does come out at an odd height is there a reason the pedal can't be adjusted back to normal?

yes, that rod is a direct replacement, but all you need is the bush (particularly if the mechanic is doing it). I'd take Tom's advice and get them both from Dale

line 1 great line 2....hmmm...but I guess everyone gets impatient with repeated questions line 3.....why put shit on new members? what sort of forum would this be if we only had members who already knew everything? Try a welcoming attitude as a forum upgrade present! BTW, there is nothing wrong with a lightened flywheel, and it would certainly not lead to vibrations. Any flywheel or clutch could be out of balance which would cause vibration, not just a lightened one. I prefer the feel because the engine is more responsive, it can make it a little trickier to pull away from a stop, especially uphill where more revs might be needed.

you said nipple tehehehehe

you undo the lock nut on the outer rod end and then you can just screw the inner rod end. you already have the hard end out. I've not seen an innner end pull out before so you might want to look at the lock kit, perhaps it was not installed correctly. The inner rod ends should be readily obtainable either aftermarket or if not, nissan

Excellent info, thanks. Turns out Haltech reads and logs the fuel temp via the e85 sensor so I'll at least be able to collect the data

I don't understand? It sounds like the wastegate and wastegate pipe you have aren't compatible because they touch? Just get an exhaust shop to weld up something that suits?

It's possible that the horn is working but it is so gay you can't hear it? Or maybe start with checking the horn fuse, it may well be after the relay in the wiring (they are on a skyline). Not that a fuse should blow, but it is a place to start. If not unbolt the horn, hold it on battery - and run a wire to battery + (if there is only 1 wire) or run both wires to you battery +/- to test it. With the washer pump...there is water, right? If so most likely all nozzles are blocked. Find the washer bottle where the pumps are, take the hose(s) off and quickly run the washers to see if water comes out, presumably it will because you can hear the motor running. If so put that hose back on and trace it to the bonnet nozzles, pull the hose of the back and repeat the test. If water comes out there as well pull the washer nozzles off the car and clean them out with a needle or similar

sorry I posted a pic not a link, specs here: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-tank-vent-valves/atl-tank-vent-valve-8mm-push-on-vent-inline-50mbar-pressure-relief-5mbar-vacuum yep, it's always closed outwards unless the pressure is over 50mbar (about 1psi). Personally I think anyone rallying without a working anti rollover valve should consider Henri Toivonen and Sergio Cresto; you shouldn't always assume you can quickly exit a car that didn't land on it's wheels... I looked at a lot of the common/cheap anti roll over valves and was in no way convinced. For example they would really only seal if the car was exactly upsidedown.....

oh, RE and RE probably means "remove and replace" the CVs which is a reasonably large job so 3 hours is OK.

All of those symptoms can be caused by stuffed tension/castor rod bushes, and you said they are stuffed....

Sorry yes the plenum is bare other than the air temp sensor; although if you need particular bits I probably have them... Re the Ruzic Data logger. Basically Paul Ruzic (Mountainrunner on here) was (is?) a skyline owner and electrical engineer who built limited runs of a couple of excellent units. I'm selling the Engine Monitor and Data logger, they work together to monitor 23 channels of data, and bring them to your attention if there is an issue (eg low oil pressure, high oil or water temp etc etc). It comes with software to configure each of the inputs. When an alarm is triggered you can get warning light and/or buzzer, it also comes with a shift light and the EM has a configurable screen than can show 4 pages of 4 values. You (or an auto elec, or a good workshop) will need to wire in whichever data you want to log. I had oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, fuel pressure, revs, volts, speed, rpm, 4wd%, afms, air temp, injector%, timing, TPS, wide band 02, brake switch, engine check light. And GPS location and speed of course Available channels for the Engine monitor: Available channels for the Data Logger: The 2 units share data so all DL channels can trigger warnings, and all EM channels can be logged. It logs to a USB stick for easy changes and transfer to a PC There must be a few engine monitors out there because I got one from the second batch, not sure how many data loggers he made. Also his attessa controller (which I don't have) is excellent and links in too. When I decied to go e85 with flex fuel I went Haltech, as part of the change I went to their dash as well to keep the car simple.

Good question, I had it all wrong at first but should be fine now. Basically there are 4 exits from the tank 1. Filler neck. It's standard and still has the standard cap (which vents pressure in but not back out) 2. Loop back to the filler neck. I assume this is meant as a vent to allow filling without the pump clicking off so it is standard (it Ts back into the neck) 3 and 4 are small breathers that in the factory setup go through a couple of fittings (I assume roll over valve) and up to the charcoal cannister in the engine bay. These are now T'ed together and go into this valve which opens both ways, but only under pressure (thus allowing the tank to breathe out when it gets hot, and in as the fuel pump empties the tank) so it stays closed at other times and won't leak fumes unnecessarily It then breathes externally through a fitting which will be mounted at the rear bumper. Need a spot that won't get damaged but is clear of the bodywork

Close, but not touching. I hope. Will probably line the duct with heat shield once it's all back together but its too hard to be certain about space until the engine is back in with the full exhaust in the right place

No, I run the standard pedal box, booster, ABS. Targa regs do allow all that to be changed but prod cars don't. In any case I've never been convinced that ABS is a detriment for rally use. So it is just t-ed into the front brake line that goes from the master cylinder to the ABS. I didn't use the rear line because I assume there is some sort of proportioning valve somewhere in the rear circuit anyway

Look, new forum! No idea how to multiquote any more though....

Excellent topic for a Tech Day; well done to the execs for putting this together!

Oh BTW I'm sure Josh knows what he is talking about, and I'm sure their damping suits the spring rates; MCA have been getting good results. But there are more than one set of opinions out there, and good reasons for each side.... The Evo I ran at Bathurst had MCAs in them and it generally handled well, but it was surprisingly soft in the rear and rolled into oversteer in long corners. I don't know the spring rates but I guess they were much softer than usual for MCA....having said that the car with that setup is very quick at smaller tracks like Wakefield

I've been running with SydneyKid's revalved Bilstein (the non adjustable ones) for about 10 years now. Never been tempted to change them, the car handles beautifully....great traction and totally predictable

Just for reference, my full weight 32 GTR (race/rally) has 450 front and 350 rear springs, which is about 8F/6R. Those rates quoted by Josh are pretty extreme (15/11 for the same hankook tyre) and likely to impact traction over bumps. I'd suggest you pm SydneyKid (Gary) to discuss an alternative view.