Duncan

well that sucks, good to see you still have the car.... You need to remove the internal door trim. There may be a DIY somewhere, but if not there are screws around the perimeter and one in the handle in the pull middle of the door. everywhere else are push in clips (pry carefully so as not to break them) and then pull upwards to pull it out of the window channel. Then move the plastic out of the way. The handle is held on by 2 nuts (10mm head) but you will also need to carefully unhook the push rods that link to central locking and between the lock and the barrel.

Walbro fuel pump gone. Now added, radiator cooling panel to suit W34 Stagea from the original Bass Junky group buy, $150 So the current list of for sale is: 6 Volk Racing Le37 in 18x9.5 +12 $2,500 Wideband 02 sensor controller $180 Battery Box $20 32 Heater core and box $80 JJR RB26 sump baffles $250 R34 GTT/C34 Stagea Series 2 Oxygen Sensor $90 Ruzic Datalogger and Engine Monitor II $500 RB26 Plenum $200 Stagea Cooling Panel $150

There's also been some mechanical assembly.... Fuel tank is back in with most of the breathers sorted. Just need to plum in the pressure valve and mount the vent fitting Subframe all assembled except brakes and shocks, ready to go back in I got Matt at Racebrakes to fit a fitting for a brake pressure sender for the Haltech. The Emo at Easter had one and it was super useful data Hit the engine bay with some satin spray can and added some c/f blanks to cover some old holes (no more wet feet for Kel....) Assembled rear subframe back in. Also mounted the fuel cooler with rivnuts and rubber isolators to prevent vibration

Right, so....been way too long since an actual GTR update, which is not fair because progress has been happening (although not quick). On the electrical side, I've finished stripping all the looms. Rear loom complete (in theory) including new main pump and lift pump feeds Front loom complete on the engine bay side, still some work required at the cabin end. Still a bit to do on the dash/main loom. Only 1 relay and a couple of fuses left under the bonnet as the smartwire will handle almost everything Also installed the button and wiring for the new kill switch in the driver's door Also got a new intercom to simplify everything, just needs power and earth and removes the old adapters. Also comes with bluetooth phone for calling in the service fairies. And finally, sorted LEDs for all lights (except headlights, where I still need to get the housings first)

In that case it may be a historical error, just clear it and see if it comes back....

I'm not familiar with the electric hicas, but my guess is the LH and RH solenoids are probably mounted on the steering rack. I take it you dont get any error lights staying on when you start the car? Is it possible someone has removed the dash warning light globe? Either way, have a look at the rear steering rack and make sure there are no unconnected plugs....maybe a previous owner has disconnected it

Sort of. The dash is just a standard bolt in dash with an LCD, you need to run power and earth, and it has a regular yellow video input. They were often used with an epson EJ1 computer which is a totally different thing, but if not you could run any video input to it.

Man those things are awesome, and hard to come by. Mine actually died about a year ago (LCD backlight failed) Someone grab this, it's as rare as a double headed unicorn!

Definitely yes on S1, and I assume the same on S2. Some brackets are involved but you could make them if not supplied with the lip

hopefully lol

they aren't 32, different front housing. I'd guess they are 34 because it came in 2 sizes (otherwise why mark them 0.64), but could also be 33.

oh, and dont drop the roll pins into the box....

Hi mate, are the turbs genuine n1s, and which model?

I haven't looked at the classes for this event, but the great thing about skylines are they are eligible for both group 2(sports cars) and 3(touring cars) because of the combination of 2 doors and a long cabin. I've run the GTR as a sports car a few times and I'm almost certain Neil is running his as a sports car in hillclimbs too.

Oh, and everything on that list is better than the best road tyres I've ever used. I know a lot of street tyres are trying to be cross overs but it's just not the same. Driving on real semis is an awesome experience. I've run on 2 sets of new slicks as well (kumho and falken) and didn't find them particularly better than a good semi slick (plus of course you either need to take wets, or be willing to park if it rains hard). It feels like a lot of the development goes on semis because that's where the sales and money are (outside control tyres in full on racing series of course)

lol I haven't, only the hards. Even those are pretty good, but just soooooooooooooooo expensive. I think a key difference to keep in mind is whether you need medium/hard (racing, rallies, track days) or medium/soft (supersprints, hillclimbs, superlap). My list above has been a mix and it's not fair to assume one brand's hards would be the same relative to their softs either. BTW just my opinion.....over about 15 years but I've never done a back to back comparison of 2 tyres on the same car/day/track so it's not exactly scientific. mostly based on a mix of results and lap times that I've done on each

Dammit I knew I forgot something....they used to be our control tyre I did heaps of laps on them. updated "semi slick hall of fame according to Duncan (SSHOFATD™ ) Hankook Z221 $400ea Dunlop DZ03 $550ea Federal FZ201 (dry only) $300ea Yoko A050 $550ea Kumho V70A $400 Bridgestone Re55s $550ea Yoko A032 Yoko A048 Dunlop D01J/D98J I thought the Federals were excellent for the price and would happily run them again if I didn't have to try and beat people on Hankooks (they are our new control tyre anyway so it's a moot point for racing). I ran both softs (hillclimbs) and hards (circuit) and they were a bit over 0.5sec off the Hankooks. They were diabolical in the wet though, I had commodores overtake me on the inside in the monsoon we were racing in. Not sure how easy they are to get any more though, there was some sort of issue with distribution in Oz.

I've never felt any difference with the Nismo mounts and I've run them in multiple cars for years

probably just needs to bleed any residual air out of the rack. It will either sort itself after a few days, or you could jack up the front and turn lock to lock a few times until it starts running smoothly

Great to see a super GT car locally. It might sound strange but I hope you don't change too much more from original (other than the engine/turbo of course which is easily reverted), its a bit of a shame to see historic race cars changed from their original spec. Good luck out there, hope to see you doing a few different things with it

yeah that would be pretty annoying if a $100 tyre gauge stuffed set of avon slicks....no way of telling how long it's been wrong though.

I was going to say...personally I'd give Harry's opinion some credit given he has been driving a range of cars on a range of circuits over a decade or 2....but he got in first. I mostly keep an eye on 245/45/17 prices because that's what I run on the race car, my opinion from fastest to not: Hankook Z221 $400ea Dunlop DZ03 $550ea Federal FZ201 (dry only) $300ea Yoko A050 $550ea Bridgestone Re55s $550ea Yoko A032 Yoko A048 Dunlop D01J/D98J I've probably used a few others but can't remember everything Other tyres like Toyo 888 I've never tried but anyone who has on a heavy car says they don't work well. They seem to be good on clubbies/mx5 etc. I've never tried the Nittos.

mebbe they do...but I did my fastest ever lap in a production car on very old Z221s the other week. There are a lot of variables in tyres and how they are treated so it's not surprising people get different results.

While I haven't used most of the tyres discussed recently, I have done a fair amount of time on the Z221s in mediums, have seen them on Neil's hillclimb car in softs, and have seen them on other rally or supersprint cars and they are probably the best semi around at the moment. They also lasted very well, there were cars at the Bathurst 6 hours who used 1 set all weekend.... Much more importantly though, they are very cheap compared to the established brands like yoko or dunlop. If you can't afford the hankooks you can't afford semis.....and yes tyres are probably the most expensive part of tracking your car (along with brakes, fuel, maintenance, accommodation, tow car fuel, entry fees etc)

rub inner or outer guard?