Duncan

I'll be putting the cooler under the rear seat on the passenger side, with ducting to direct air to it, same as the gibson cars had for their transfer case cooler. I'm just missing any proof it's a good idea

yeah I might check it again once everything is back together and running.....I've got a fuel cooler to put on but I've not been able to find hard numbers about either what heat is added, or how that heat affects octane

Hmmm I realized after the recent replies that I never came back with my plans; I've stuck with my current setup (lift pump + 040) and will run the additive when (if?) I run e85. I just couldn't find an e85 external pump that I could use without changing the otherwise excellent external surge tank, and I don't have a particularly large fuel requirement as it's a production car. BTW Mick I was also intrigued about your statement that it is the engine/fuel rail that warms up fuel, I always assumed it was running fuel through a pump that warmed it. So I ran fuel through a pump and back into a tank (not via a running engine) with a pump at full noise for 20min and the fuel heated up by 10o over ambient, ie stuff all. I've never tested fuel temps circulating through a running engine so I don't know how that would compare to 10o.....I also don't know exactly how temps affect fuel (either by reducing octane or oxygen %) so I don't know if 10o is even relevant; I guess not....

yeah I've got the Japanese C34 manual, just pm me your email addresses.....

So despite Mark Perry's commitment to "stability" in the regs, the latest change is to ban e85. Not good for my wallet since I've just spent thousands on ECU, flex sensor, fuel lines, pumps etc so I could run it at targa, but I do think it's good for the sport to slow cars down.....faster cars = bigger crashes = sooner that we are not allowed to do this any more.

Not my experience, I run a cooling pro in the race car and have done up to an hour's race without running hot.

Yep, and in an unusual stroke of luck I have one of each type of caliper here. You need to look closely inside where the brake line bolts in because the fitting is at the bottom Caliper without a flare fitting Caliper with a flare fitting The brake line side showing the flare that matches the fitting in the caliper. Basically, the top type expects a brake line with a banjo bolt and copper washers, and the middle/second type expects a flared fitting like the 3rd pic. You need to work out what brake lines you are using to decide if your caliper needs to be the first or second type. In each case I've tried the fitting in the caliper is removable if you need to convert to banjo type.

No chatting in the For Sale section. It is up to the seller to decide the price

In almost every case, gearbox breakages come down to driving style and to a lesser extent clutch choice. The standard gearboxes are as strong as anything in most vehicles, it is also almost identical to the navara gearbox. If in doubt stay standard until you prove you are an abuser by breaking it....

Be careful, if they came without hard lines the "olive" has probably also been removed from the caliper. There are 2 ways to fit brake lines, either flared hard lines (like factory) that have a matching flared olive inside the caliper, or just using a banjo bolt and copper washers. Most aftermarket kits use the second as it is simpler and cheaper, so depending on your application you may not need the hard lines at all. Also, you might be able to find them second hand because most people throw them away with conversions

Plus, you'll never get a turbo conversion running for under $3k so it will work out more expensive anyway

Sorry, I was a bit short in the first response but we get a surprising number of threads which say pad XYZ is crap because it squeals (not that you said that). Obviously no manufacturer releases a pad that squeals because they'd never sell the second set.... So basically, if you have a look around this section there are a lot more detailed suggestions, but basically brake squeal is caused by a high frequency vibration in the system somewhere, most often because something is not clean or flat.....top of the caliper's piston, missing or bent anti squeal shims, sliding pins not greased properly, pad not flat particularly on the leading edge for the rotor, rotor not sitting flat on the hub due to dust or rust BTW if a workshop did the pads take it back for them to fix it, it can be time consuming and frustrating to chase an issue like this.

Well you are probably on the right track. It sounds like the starter motor is working OK because you said the engine turned so no need to worry about it, battery etc. Both the ECU and the ECCS relay (blue I think) that turns the ECU on are in the passenger kick panel so you could start by pulling it off and checking that out. The buzzing sound could be a dead or dying relay but generally they either just stop working or jam on all the time. But also, do you have a factory and/or aftermarket immobiliser? That is a more likely place to fail. What happens when you turn the key from off to IGN, do you get all the usual lights on the dash?

Bendix pads don't squeal, in fact no pads squeal. It always comes down to installation (cleanness, anti-squeal shims, copper grease, chamfer pads, bedding in pad and disc) But you can change to something else if you like

600hp (330awkw) is pretty straightforward and should not require anything special....as Bob said just follow the well worn route. Even if you want 600hp atw (450kw) it's well within the ability of the combo on e85 with the right turbo

By far the bet bang for your buck is to start with sway bars, they are about 200 per end and you will really notice the difference.

I think relays generally end up in the boot, but that's not the best way to do it because you have to run both the trigger wire and the 12v feed through the length of the car....if you mount it up front you will only have to run the 12v through the car and + trigger, -trigger and the 12v feed can all be short.

can't remember how visible they were....mine were lost when the screen cracked and was replaced.....

yeah definitely the cold pack, the fog lights are part of that too. that switch should work like your rear demister, when you choose it the light should come on, and it will turn off after a few minutes. If the windscreen has ever been replaced it almost certainly won't have the heater elements any more. It just heats the area under the parked windscreen wipers so they are not frozen on if you try to use them. Cold pack includes Heated rear view mirrors Windscreen wiper heater Front and rear fog lights (rear replaces one reversing light, and results in everyone stopping you in carparks to tell you that you have a reversing light out....)

Any idea if 32 GTR is the same, as I've got one of those.....if you are not sure pm me your vin and I can check if the part is the same

looks great overall, but I'm really worried about how that brake master cylinder replacement is going to work.....it's moved it to the wrong side of the car

fine for road use without a cooler...but it will overflow like crazy if you do track work without one

oh yes BTW I did have one and it started leaking after a couple of years. replaced it with a just jap one which is going strong.

personally I would not go PWR again, too many stories on here and elsewhere of premature failure which they blame on using the "wrong" coolant and reject warranty claims. And yet somehow, every other brand of radiator is cheaper but doesn't have this magical wrong coolant allergy?

Totally agree, they've done a few gearboxes and diffs for my over the years, definitely know their shit