Duncan

The standard sensor is 0-5v but I've never seen the calibration for it to confirm if its the same as the generic one Haltech uses....most likely it is the same or sufficiently similar (considering you don't exactly get an exact reading from the stock gauge.....) In any case your oil pump doesn't damage your pressure sender.....time and 000s of klm of vibration do. They are a reasonably common failure, just replace the standard one....in your case I'd go second hand if you intend to go aftermarket ECU soon anyway

so if it happens with road speed not revs, you have something loose between the clutch and the road. So gearbox internal (unlikely), tailshaft (likely if you've never replaced the joints), diff (possible), driveshaft (probable), or even wheel not attached properly (loose wheel nuts, spacers installed incorrectly etc). Jack up the right rear, handbrake off and turn the tyre to see if it can narrow down the clunk. Or take it to a mechanic, this sort of stuff is very easy on a hoist.

Yeah both Mark and I ran them for years back when we had to use standard size sumps for circuit racing and targa. The rubber never showed any issue, there are many other rubber parts like seals in the oil system

Yeah I loved that, reminded me of the milk sign at Oran Park....I was sure I had scraped the paint on 3 occasions (twice at forrest elbow and once at Reid Park) during the race but no evidence when I got back to the pits so it never happened. I enjoy the blind apexes etc where you just have to turn in at the right place and trust physics.....

I think very few have used a recessed MC, it is a lot harder to do and not really necessary because all it does is add a clutch booster....they are fine without. Mine is a 34 MC and bolted straight on (although like Bob I have tight clearance in the engine bay and a FFP) I can't remember any tricks internally (drill through and bolt in) but can take some pics if you have something specific you want to check out?

wow that 2nd link is not a triumph in communications best practice. But as I understand it the only change is a loosening of restrictions once you have historic/club rego in place. So you still need to go through the rego steps with a club.

I don't know anyone who has kept the footbrake on a manual conversion.....not saying it may not be possible but a handbrake is the easy way to go

lol 11 years ago. there is nothing stopping SAU offering historic/club rego as we are an officially registered car club. when I originally looked into it the key requirements were minimum 5 people who would maintain their rego, and an authorised inspection station being willing to do the inspections for us. no huge deal, but under the rules 10 years ago the cars had to be certified as standard, or standard with period options only. also of course, there are restrictions on how you can use the car.

surely that is the only one (or r33 or r32) that actually just bolts on

good work pete, I heard you did well outright too. see you at grafton to find out if you can beat the leaf.

funnily enough, it was actually the relay in a 32 gts4 recently, but that had totally different symptoms.....the pump ran even when the car was turned off (because the relay's power source is battery direct not via IGN or ACC) so it flattened the battery very quickly. the clicking on and off regularly is most likely to be the accumulator or pressure switch because it turns on to refill the accumulator (either because it leaks or because the pressure switch thinks it is not full)

or be nicer on the clutch when you launch it? may not be anything wrong with it for regular use....

actually I was just poking around under mine today, and I have a black box with lots of wires between the fuse box and the driver's kick panel, its a kind of super interior box which beeps, does central locking etc etc. why do you think the problem is under the dash. do you know what the error code actually is?

umm I guess you must really like that dealer.....personally I would not be OK to pay the premium of a dealer mechanic to have them ask me for info about their car. I wouldn't mind helping a local mechanic if they asked the same question because I don't pay more for them to have this sort of info (yes I get it's not locally sold....but still....) Anyway I have the PDF manual if you want it.....about 3,200 glorious pages in japanese.....send me your email address and I can send a link BTW very unlikely to be a wiring problem if 1/ the trans doesn't work, and 2/ consult says why it doesn't work. I'd just change the faulty solenoid and see what happens

It was probably Pete, he's got form

Dunlop Sport Maxx RT (in 235/45/18 and 245/45/18) Dry : 7/10 Wet : ?/10 Value for $ : 8/10 Just bought these for both the Stagea and the Leaf, excellent value for a performance road tyre at $210ea fitted. haven't tried them in the wet or on a track yet but so far they have been very grippy for a road tyre, a bit noisy of course

what he said....you are about to fall into a religious war between 2 camps 1. no or stock sway bars and heavy springs vs 2. upgraded (whiteline adjustable) sway bars with much lighter springs. I am very happy in group 2 but have never really tried 1.....to me it makes sense to use the lightest springs possible to get maximum traction (the harder a spring is, the less time the wheel will spend on the ground over bumps) and use sway bars to manage side to side roll.

hmm I saw a remarkable vision from Mark Clair with one of those but I'm not really convinced they are more than a mind bending gimmick yet.....will be interesting to see how more vids look.

the system will drain through when you disconnect the lower end of the lines you are replacing. if you do manage to empty it all out (probably unnecessary) you will need to bleed the system again to getting it running properly. Lift the front wheels off the ground and turn them from lock to lock until you hear the pump sounding happy instead of angry

then you have some sort of battery earth or alternator issue, an auto elec can test and repair the alternator

Good to hear the brakes are sorted. The gearbox is almost certainly just due to breathing. Ever since they changed the formula to remove the carcinogens it has breathed like crazy. I just leave it at whatever level it decides it should be after breathing out the exces.... Cam seals may still be the cause, particulary depending on the quality of the seals and the little rubber pieces under the cam cover bolts (and making sure they are not overtorqued causing pinched seal). Also if its an rb25 head it can leak from the VCT solenoid. Not sure about the manifold nuts because I've never really had a lot of trouble. I'd guess it is a bit banana shaped...next time it is off put a straight edge along it

Great to see SAU putting together teams for these events, they are an awesome way to get a heap of track time

Either alternator, battery or just wiring to the RSM (including bad earth, dont just thing about positive side). Yes around 14v depending on how cold the car is, and yes a multimeter at the battery when stopped (~12v) and running (~14v) is the next step

lol I don't remember them rolling off the showroom floor quite like that....

Maybe give them a bell....it says for Auto but I can't see transmission cooler fittings? Or doesn't the stock one have a transmission cooler in the radiator? I'm running one of their cooling pro ones in my stagea but it is manual