Duncan

wow. how do you end up with powder coat flakes.....coater must have been a real butcher

Don't know what size he needs, but they are very cheap semis at $420 for 235/45/17. By far the best bang for buck mod if you are trying to drive up a hill fast on cold tyres.

Cams allow L2NSJ licenses from 12, not sure if the club has further rules for entries

Track only car doing hillclimbs? Definately not Rs3s. I'd go soft Z221 Hankooks. Haven't run them myself but Neil has tried Federal Softs, Avon soft slicks and the z221 softs and rates the hankooks best.

Enough gents. Back to the topic.

or why not go outside the brand but in identical style?

put something bigger on it then, how about F50 Cima?

C34 is 14mm. Not sure about M35. But you really you have at least a set of spanners if you own a car

Agreed it sounds reasonable. I think there is little feedback because everyone just lives with the harder steering, its very usable....

yes, and quite the opposite, it made amazing power and won the national championship. Imagine a poor old RB trying to breathe through twin 27mm intakes

its a grey plug next to the fuse box under the dash on the driver's side

Right now we are talking. I take it that is a holden auto? NFI about fit there, there tunnel is not huge. The motor fits but apparently having headers, a starter motor AND a steering rack is a big ask. All of the r chassis rear ends are pretty good strength-wise compared to any average car, and there is a lot that is interchangeable. Personally I'd go with the gtt rear end and see if something breaks. If it does take a 32 or 33/34 non vspec rear end from hub to hub and throw that in. Only issue might be difference in ABS sensors. And you may want a different ratio as GTSBoy said

oh, and degrease then wash down it all thoroughly, then check again in a few days. there are too many years of build up road goop to really tell where the actual leak is

Yes that's exactly what he means. I've also seen lots of leaks from the rear fitting. Possibly because it is not tight (it uses a flare fitting) or i f not perished o-ring inside that housing. The transfer case and gearbox are separate internally so you need to identify if the leak is gearbox oil (heavy smelly oil, normally dark honey to black but also possibly smurf blood (thick blue) or purple), vs transfer case leak which is automatic transmission fluid which tends to be red or blue, much thinner and not an oil at all

no pads will cause squealing; no manufacturer put a compound together, glued them to a backing plate, stuck them in a car for a test, heard them squeal like a pig and said "great, let's get them on the shelves". And I mean up to and including sprint or endurance race pads. Yes some more agressive pads are more likely to be noisey but it is always a problem with the car and/or installation. Squeal is a high frequency vibration in something that shouldn't be moving. Like GTSboy said above machining rotors and pads may help if they aren't new (flat), any moving parts like sliding pins, caliper pistons, touch point between pistons and pads (which should be anti squeal shims), hub to disc mounting surface, caliper bolts tight. By far the most common cause is simply brake dust, so get everything nice and clean when you reassemble. If the noise goes away when you add anti squeal goop between the piston and pad that tells you the problem is likely in that contact somewhere. So clean and check the shims are not bent etc

I think maybe your first question was not exactly your real question.....what are you trying to do? what chassis are you trying to do it to? have you broken something already or are you trying to make sure you don't break something? Are you trying to make something handle better?

sadly, yes.

it sounds like the starter isn't disengaging quickly enough....rebuild or replace it

I'd go either 1 or 3, and it depends what you are doing and planning to do with the car in the next 2 years. I can't see why good, standard brakes wouldn't be sufficient for street/light track use, especially if you run semi slicks on the track. 2 is just a path to more pain, everything is 20years old by now....

pls post up or pm me your VIN and we can get the exact part #s

exactly which gaskets do you need, and where are you?

Been towing the Leaf to the rounds of the NSW Hillclimb champs; first round was Bathurst a few weeks back, and then Kempsey this weekend. As usual the Stagea was faultless, other than getting under 250klm per tank..... (sorry for the terrible pic, Kel has an iphone)

hmm I know this is sAU but there is still a bit of arrogance in implying that our dynos are accurate and american ones are not because they read higher. Perhaps our just read lower than normal, it depends where you stand. BTW I am pretty sure our 400m is shorter than a 1/4 mile too....

I'm not certain for R34, but on R32 there is a separate throttle closed switch, it doesn't use the TPS output. in any case the stock ECU wouldn't be adjustable. Have you tested at what voltage/adjustment the throttle switch closes? BTW what are you trying to fix?

interesting idea, I'd love to see a back to back test. yes lower pressure will give you more rubber on the road but I'm not certain that translates directly to extra grip because each contact patch will move more relative to the wheel