Duncan

Yes it can be adjusted if you know what you are doing, details are in section C5 (page C-120 of the service manual).

ahh they are such a great car aren't they post up or pm me the vin and i can check. I used the Stagea to tow the Leaf to Bathurst and back on the weekend, it made easy work of a very heavy load as always. Very happy with how the car runs, even though it has over 300,000klm on it now

So....another year.....another request for updates. I can't see Mark Clair's Racerecall site any more so I guess his business didn't make it My radcam has not worked so good since I plugged it into 12v instead of 5v So....what does full HD, can run off 12v, has one or more remote camera heads and records to SD? Oh, and has been reliable

Neil used them on the weekend at Bathurst and found they worked better than the Avon softs (that cost $200ea more). There's a reason they were banned from superlap

yeah redline themselves say don't use lightweight in a synchro box because it is too slippery. I think people generally use it in old boxes to mask synchro problems (I sure have, and it worked great), but if you have a new or rebuilt box I would definitely not use it.

Yep, you can just unplug them. volts comes straight from the power supply to the gauges, oil temp is 1 connector on the oil/water heat exchanger under the plenum that you could now unplug or remove, and boost comes from a map sensor on the firewall next to the brake booster, which you could also unplug and remove (remember to block the air hose that goes to it if you do)

I don't think any of those are the same, I think the stagea one is larger, but a similar design? Would have to measure to check

I like neat fuses and wiring, partly because I'm anal, partly because neat is also reliable. This looks excellent although I haven't needed to use it basically it gives you 6 circuits on either constant 12v(or something else like IGN or ACC depending where you source the main power), or switched 12v (eg IGN or ACC) depending on where you plug the fuse in. only 30A max from the relay these are the austalian importers: http://www.solidkit.com.au/ But in your case it looks like most of them have a high amp requirement per circuit which makes it a bit tricker. maybe have a look at configurable PDMs like this: http://www.prolecproducts.com.au/phpcode/list_products.php?product_group=11&product_range=45&collection=233&series=1004

don't know either sadly, although you should be able to follow one hose back to the rear of the water pump housing (that is the in). but I don't think it matters.....flush from both ways for a min or 2, job done

nothing wrong with maching brakes as many times as you like, just keep them above the minimum (generally 2mm less than new, but I tend to rely on the DBA cattledog too). Afterall, that's how they made the discs the right thickness in the first place. Just make sure you bed the pads in again after machining, it will remove all the pad build up and it needs to be restored

umm you would hope the LPG guy would be familiar with how to test the float in the tank to get the answer. 32 GTR is 6ohm Full, 80ohm empty. I couldn't find the same data in the stagea manual but it is most likely the same. But frankly, they should take the float out of the tank and test the resistance and full and empty to confirm

interesting input, thanks guys. I kind of feel like I posted should go twins or single turbo in the FI section..... anyway, for street use I understand why the cutoff and foreground of LEDs are an issue and frankly it makes it an expensive gamble to get a good one....or perhaps there are no good ones.... in my case I was looking to make a current saving rather than getting a better than average bulb so it may still be OK to run a cheap LED globe. But clearly I am not going to get what I am after from an LED high beam so I think I might look into a light bar when (if) needed for night racing. Also, between what I've read here, and the fact both headlights are a bit borken after years of racing, I've decided to replace both headlights with the base spec /N1 reflector lights which will take a much easier H4 bulb anyway. And for the rest of the lights I've gone Philips from ebay. Thank y'all

Also for sale, brand new unused Walbro e85 400l/h pump http://walbrofuelpumps.com/450lph-walbro-e85-racing-fuel-pump-f90000267.html $200

thanks everyone for the quick responses. I think I might go with Philips globes in the hope they are a little better made, even at their prices it is pretty cheap compared to everything else on a GTR. The headlights don't look so simple. Robzilla the ones you linked to a H4 which are hi+lo, whereas my car has H3C lo and H3 Hi beams. Is yours the same and you modified to suit? I use the headlights: * on targa stages as the regs say they have to be on (so brightness doesnt matter) * if I drive the car at night (very rare) but they have to be OK * for racing at night, in which case I want them as bright as possible. So I figure I will buy 2 sets of H3 lights, run 1 pair on lo beam and both pairs on high beam....total current draw for at 40w each for 4 lights is still only 13 amps. Looks like I'll just go with a mid priced ebay set and see how they go.....I did notice that most sellers are willing to back their product for a whole 1 month warranty which fills me with confidence.

I'm looking to swap the race car over to LEDs external lighting, this is my understanding of the bulb types for a 32 GTR: 2x Low beam headlights H3C. Note, later cars apparently run H1 2x High Beam headlights H3 2x Front Indicators BA15s 2x Rear Indicators BA15s 2x Reversing Lights BA15s 4x Stop/Parkers BA15d 2x Rear Number plate T10 2x Front/Side Indicators T10 2x Front Parkers T10 The question is, any recommendations for good quality LEDs? There are billions on ebay but I suspect their quality.... Buying List 2x H3C 2x H3 6x BA15s 4x BA15d 6x T10

here's hoping someone else can help....I just use the consult and it comes with at least a basic description of the fault.

Sorry the last coil pack cover I had is sold. PM sent.

I got the wrong ones first time too. Easiest way is to measure the outside of the bush with verniers. Measurements of the 2 sizes are on the whiteline site

M10x1.25 x50 long (25threaded) with a point (although that's probably not important, just easier to put in). Also note they are cap head because there is no space to get a spanner in

sorry my japanese is too poor (ie non existant) to tell if 5 slow 5 fast means no error. maybe someone else can help. Page C-32 in the stagea manual

do you have access to a consult? It will report the error. Where are you located (not recorded on your profile)

64-74Nm

That reads exactly like it was written by the Mercedes press department (yep, they guys they rely on for most of their advertising revenue). Very one sided reporting and it repeats totally misleading claims. I strongly doubt the author spoke to even a single person who has imported a car themselves.

32 gtr is 204-275NM. ie twice as tight as a wheel nut and half as tight as a harmonic balancer bolt.

yeah exactly....and best of all the mandrels are not interchangeable between those 2 tools which would have been awesome.