Duncan

see the problem is that nut has to be undone to repair a split cv boot so it is very possible it has been off. If it is not done up it is very likely to damage the wheel bearing because it helps hold the hub in the right place. I've had exactly that happen to my race car when a shop didnt do up that nut after changing the CVs the night before an event. Best thing you can do is do it up as tight as you can, drive to a workshop you trust and get them to check it out. there are a few specialist tools and steps in doing a wheel bearing so you are better letting someone who knows what they are looking at check it out

I just dropped by to say I'm surprised how civil this all is....keep up the good work a -5 power thread in forced induction is like throwing e85 on a fire normally

Yeah I ended up going the same one, the only frustration was it doesnt come with M5 or M4 mandrels which would have been an obvious inclusion for such a compact tool. Who the hell uses rivnuts to hold an M10 bolt??

lucky outcome really.... I was not happy with the design of some of those breathers they are very basic. Have you got a pic of how the 4 breathers are mounted and vented? Are you using a 90L FIA with siamese fittings?

what intrigues me though....do you have a white v36 sedan, and if so how similar was the number plate to the one captured? And were you able to view the pic for free or did you have to pay for access?

excellent, the only wonder is how long it has taken to act.

here you go, page C-30 of the service manual. If you need a copy of the whole manual pm me your email address

Both statements "its too low" and "its consistent so its OK" are pretty much right. Standard compression according to the workshop manual is 171psi, so 120 is way low. However, you don't know if the test was done correctly, with an accurate guage, with a fully charged battery, with a warm engine etc etc as it should be. So instead people generally look for consistency in the results because that removes all those factors. The main things you are trying to avoid with a compression test are some sort of major mechanical issue like a broken ring land, bent valve etc etc which will show up even if the test is not done correctly. The remaining issue is general wear on the rings which can show up as low compression everywhere, but even then it tends not to be consistent. So....the remaining problem is it may be heigh klm and the rings worn. Does it smoke at idle or light throttle driving?

yeah I noticed the same from yesterday. using Chrome

Yes. Undo nut on ball joint (21mm I think), use ball joint seperator to crack the joint (dont use the fork ones, use the screw type ones). undo both inner arm bolts. Remove arm from car.

yep thats the same one, Neil got it from the travelling tool bloke at his work and I can't remember the price

Oh the same article specifically mentioned that the 89 rule will become a 25 year old rule (not 30 year as currently expected), meaning any imports to 1993 will become available in 2018 when the rules change

hmm maybe I was premature.....saw this article which says changes are to be announced today to allow: No restriction on imports: From Japan or UK Less than 500klm Less than 12 months old http://www.theguardian.com/business/2016/feb/10/australians-to-bypass-car-dealers-and-import-directly-from-japan-and-uk So...bring on cheap GTRs E52 Elgrands Y51 Cimas and of course the beautiful e-200NV And probably some toyota stuff that no-one cares about. And hopefully some small crazy models that I've never heard of Very big win for consumers and small importers, and big lose for Nissan OZ and co.

Oh on topic, Neil dug this up from his tool guy and we went halves. and best of all I have possession of it. nice not to slice up the hands or bash it open and closed with a big screwdriver any more

so there's been stuff all progress, I did tidy up the fuel pump cradle and move to e85 safe hose. I ended up deciding to keep the small lift pump (and the 044 external) although neither are e85 OK, I am going to run the oil additive and carry spare pumps instead. I also did some measuring of fuel pump impact on temps but will post that up in the lift pump thread when I get a second also did another test day in the emo, they are annoyingly quick little bastards. did a 1.06.2 at wakie on old tyres which is 0.7 faster than I've ever done in the GTR....still not heading permanently to the dark side though, it's nowhere near as much fun.....plus, I picked up some ideas from the data logging that I might try in the gtr anyway.....

lol that is bullshit. 32 hours. I want to check my bundy card. pete, I've never seen you run once let alone 4 times in a day.

oh, that doesn't read well.....

kudos for effort, but you didn't own a broom handle and some grease?

thanks gents that is exactly the part I was trying to get to. funnily enough it struck me that the workshop manual might have some information, and voila! so yes, the GTR cap has a one way pressure sensitive valve that allows air in to replace the used fuel (but not out, of course) the other half of the breathing is the "fuel overflow prevention system with check valve" which breathes excess pressure into the charcoal canister when the engine runs. the motorsport question of course is what is needed to safely vent the tank, I don't want to sit on a fuel bomb. Pretty much every aftermarket vent is an anti roll over valve which is open at all other times, ie it allows air/fuel vapour in or out unless the car is exactly upside down. ideally I would keep the stock cap and have a 1 way valve to allow fuel vapour to vent to atmo (via a small filter) but I am having trouble finding something good. most setups are small valves near the top of the tank that are almost guaranteed to leak fuel from a full tank in high G corners. In fact the most common valve mounts on top of the tank and doesnt allow for any venting hose at all Some people combat that by having looped breather hose but as soon as you get liquid fuel into that hose it can no longer work as a vent which defeats the whole purpose. kind of like a S bend with the same result that gas cannot pass. happy to hear any suggestions about a good way to deal with the venting

haha timely question....also interesting to know

pretty much any workshop will have a press that can do it, you dont need a specialist tool.

link to proof? the rules have always been that low volume import is not possible when the manufacturer imports them. they can only come in: Full homologation. Only nissan oz ever had this and only for 91/92 models. 1989 rule - was 15 year old until it was changed to stop all the post 1989 jap goodies coming in. Will become a 30 year old rule in 2019. Personal import - if you can prove you owned it for 2 years (used to be 1) overseas SEVS/RAWS etc if the manufacturer didn't import it at that time. So 89, 90, 93, 94 models are OK. 4 cars came in before 91 through scuderia veloce, the rest came in post 93. Race/Rally - can't be registered except restricted/rally rego Parts - has to be cut in half at a minimum.

You need to find out more about how the car was imported; because nissan Oz was selling GTRs in 91/92 you can't import them yourself. About the only valid way for that car to be registered is if it was a Personal Import. Check the VIN with DOTARS to find out how it was complied. I imported a 91 but it is only for race/rally use and can't be fully registered

+1 we used to have to run them as a control tyre and they were horrible. Good on the first use, but thy quickly became junk even though they might have plenty of tread left also, they about the most expensive tyre you can buy.

There must be some older, wiser heads here..... what does the fuel cap do? to save some posts, the correct answer is not "it seals the fuel tank"