Duncan

oh man that makes the wedding all the rude-r. can't they just move it? Bathurst hillclimb only comes once a year

yeah mate I saw you were heading there too in the racing thread, should be an excellent event. buying would probably not have been much more expensive but lets face it, there is nothing faster than a borrowed car Tim see you at Kempsey...but it's round 3 because Bathurst is 2 events/ 2 rounds over the 2 days. Dale I did ask what they weight but the exact answer went straight out the other ear; I just remember I was surprised how light it was compared to the GTR

I think we need pics....but it seems likely the leak is at that fitting

more seriously though....almost certainly not. you need to get the VIN and then check with DOTARS what sort of import approval it had, if any. I assume you also need to check some sort of written off vehicle register

ummm yeah. this thread was about the car's progress not me but I guess they are related. Basically I've decided to tick an item off my bucket list and enter the Bathurst 6 hour race at Easter. The GTR wasn't eligible (due to age) and even if it was I wasn't confident how it would go flat out for 6 hours so I figured I would use someone else's car instead. So, I did a test day in this dirty emo 9 on Monday, it went OK although it was surprisingly different in feel to the GTR and I'll need more seat time to be comfortable. Even though they can run 1.2bar boost (vs 0.8 in the GTR) they make a little less power; they are of course about 200kg lighter though. The other part of this decision for me was that it takes a lot of my race budget for the year, so I am not rushing to get the GTR ready for any particular event. Instead both Kel and I have entered the 8 round state hillclimb champs, the first round is at Bathurst in the first week of March.

there are conflicting instructions because they both achieve the same thing; but like Adrian said, if the CAS is unplugged the ECU won't know the engine is turning, so it will not give either spark OR fuel

I think Bob's on the right track. There are 2 fitting type, one has a flare on the end of the brake line with an angled end that seals on a similar angled end in the caliper (the "olive" Bob mentions). The other type uses a banjo bolt that seals with a copper washer between the head of the bolt and a (hopefully) flat part on the caliper where the bolt screws in. If your brake line has the copper washer/banjo setup it needs to seal tightly to the caliper, and it won't be able to do that if the banjo bolt bottoms out on the original fitting before it is tight. So to check that you can look at the copper washer; they are designed to crush a little when they are tight.

lol adam got in first

the thing is, nothing that leaks changes when the car is moving....it should be able to make the leak occur when stationary no matter what

sorted, it's been moved to the builds section, good luck with it!

just shoot me a link and I'll move it. No need to shout though

Excellent outcome...can you post up a pic or more detail for future people with the same issue

Yes you will get an error, and yes the correct resistor will clear the error. I assume it's not in an 1993 R32 Skyline GTST, its probably a 5ohm resistor if it's M35 or 2.7 for C34 but I'm not certain

2wd?

I'd rather think of it as $4000/hr....the last time someone quoted me that........

BTW assuming stagea is the same as R chasis cars, ABS is handled by the ATTESSA ECU. Therefore if you can get the attessa into diagnostic mode the ABS light itself will flash. Here is one thread about Stagea ATTESSA diagnostic mode: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190973-4wd-light-for-s2s/ At this stage that will be easier than getting a consult hooked up

wow...your car seems to have all the luck....considered getting a mechanic to look at both problems??? we are really getting way beyond what people can guess from across a keyboard. in any case, there are 3 pins from the ECU to consult (TX transmit, RX receive, CLK sync or timing signal) + an earth which you could identify and wire up to get the ECU consult going, but in this case I think you want the ABS/Attessa pins and I don't know where they come from in a Stagea. My stagea has 6 pins at the consult plug, 4 from the ECU + 2 at the other end, they may be the ABS/Attessa pins or something entirely separate. From rear (wire side) Br|Bk/wh|x|x|x|Y|Br/Y x|x|x|x|x|Y/R|Bk Having said all that, it would be very strange for someone to go to the trouble of removing the consult port....I suspect it is still tucked in there somewhere.

OK, quick refresher on what is still for sale: 6 Volk Racing Le37 in 18x9.5 +12 $2,500 Wideband 02 sensor controller $180 Battery Box $20 32 Heater core and box $100 JJR RB26 sump baffles $250 R34 GTT/C34 Stagea Series 2 Oxygen Sensor $90 Ruzic Datalogger and Engine Monitor II $500 Plenum $200 Timing belt cover $150 Spark Plug Cover $100 2x Cam covers $150

Gordon Leven sells them, they are the duck's nuts for hillclimbing. http://www.gordonleven.com/brands/avon-tyres/ About $500ea as usual. Neil got 4 weekends of 4x 1.5 minute runs out of them, or about 30min total life before they were rooted. But they were soft and quick.

auto trans fluid will do it. and the power steer as well

hmm not awesome. they will still work fine but the inner pad will wear faster than it should. I think you already said the shims would worsen the problem not correct it. Assuming all mounting surfaces are flat and straight eg no small metal dags pushing it out, your only option to correct it would be to have the adapters machined to take a mm or 3 off. Or you can just pretend it never happened and live with faster pad wear than you should have. Or return them....

I've not used either but the feedback on 888 was always that they worked well on lighter cars but not heavy ones like skylines. Despite the posts above about wear, I would be going hankook for short runs, they are clearly the quickest tyres around, there is a reason they were banned from superlap. Plus they are 2/3 or even 1/2 the price of yoko/dunlop/bridgestone options

I honestly don't know what an SPL solid is so I'll guess its a type of bush, and I assume rear knuckle is the rear hub/upright assembly. There are a billion bushes at either end of the control arms, and yes if they've never been changed they are likely to be rooted. 6 per side + possibly 2 more depending on your hicas/nocas setup. The best bet for a road car is generally an adjustable poly bush like whiteline or superpro because they are quieter, last much longer but also allow some extra adjustment for alignment particularly useful if you have lowered the car. Rose joints / rod ends / spherical bearings /whatever you want to call them are generally a bad choice for a road car because they wear quickly and make nasty knocking noises, think under 20,000klm. And finally, it is a prick of a job to get all the bushes out and in, get a workshop to do it unless you have a big press and fittings, or unless you really enjoy frustrating and hard car jobs.

Good question! Homologated weight for a 32 GTR is 1430kg Production Cars (3E) say 1400-1499kg cars can have a 5% weight reduction, and then you have to add 85kg, so minimum weight for Production car is 1445 including driver. Targa regs specify 1560 including 150kg for 2 crew and safety gear so 1410 for the car alone At it's last corner weighting it was 1397 (half fuel tank) +90kg driver = 1487. Rally gear like spare tyre was not on board at the time. Both sets of regs are actually very restrictive about what can be removed so I can't see it ever getting to minimum weight without some dedicated cheating. I'll post up what it is after the rebuild and 1kg of extra tar being removed but I can't see it being a problem.

awesome find on the wheels...well done. and hopefully you'll enjoy the cube, we had ours for years and it never missed a beat. you'll enjoy the extra steering lock too, it is outrageously easy to park. plus it can take a whole trackday's worth of tools in the back, particularly if you don't need the rear seat