Duncan

yeah storms in both Canberra and Sydney this arvo, I picked an awesome day to drive between them,.... at least there doesnt seem to have been hail this time, the rain was outrageously warm

Yeah exactly, it will almost certainly be directly unplugable, just follow the large wires and plug from the back of the ignition key. All it would take is something minor in that not being protected by a fuse to melt to open and cause this. If not, I'd check (ie swap) the ECCS relay before worrying too much about the ECU having an issue, it might also have failed to always on

somewhat more seriously though, I'd start by having the alignment checked as something like toe out would definately create that feeling. It also may simply be the rear tyres are no good in the wet. If they are same size rims I would swap front to rear for a while and see if the problem switches ends

No-one likes a loose rear end

oh sorry forgot to answer, no there is no straight forward way to test the ABS sensors, they send a pulse every time the ridges on the ring pass the sensor so you need an oscilloscope to test it. I guess some expensive multimeters can do that

well TBH a mechanical issue with the sensor or ring is about the least likey thing, unless you know there has been damage for some reason. If it is the sender(s) most likely it would be a wiring issue, also possibly grounding to the ABS unit etc etc. Once you have the error code you can narrow it down usefuly

only just. thread locked due to the remote likelihood of a meaningful discussion breaking out, and troll banned.

Good luck guys, do us proud!

Right oh, a couple of people were after different parts of the cover set, so here are individual prices: Plenum 200 Timing belt cover 150 Spark Plug Cover 100 2x Cam covers 150

so....haven't really been home over the break so I've made SFA progress. I did spend a couple of happy hours with a heat gun, saving a massing 0.9kg removing the last of the tar....

I believe these are all consult type 3, I've only ever seen the 1 pin layout. Later cars use the industry standard ODB2. So to read the error code you either need a consult PC cable and software that can read it, on an actual Nissan consult unit. once you have either of those you will have the exact issue.

awesome sneaky marketing

Also, just because there is no combustion gas in the coolant does not exclude a head gasket issue, it may be blown between the oil and water passages only. Other causes I can think of are cracked block (unlikely unless you are making a billion KW) or the oil/coolant heat exchanger below the oil filter; if it leaked internally you would get oil/water mix. Also, how is the underside of the oil filler cap on the cam cover

there was no such thing as an "N1" tie rod end, they've invented it. Any replacement is fine, no upgrading required.

yeah that was just a generic pic from here somewhere. this is from my s1 c34 consult is the grey plug underneath. it may be tucked away as mine doesn't seem to be mounted

sorry yes forgot to add that bit, it is a grey or white plug near the fuse box. eg

good news then, mines is just a standard ECU with a tune. the ABS might actually use separate pins to the engine data anyway.

Yep, covers still available. RB26 Engine Covers set 1 Cam covers, valley cover, timing cover, plenum Perfect for powercoating to whatever colour/finish you prefer $600 It's probably time I reposted the thread it's getting a bit difficult to see what's still there....

have you got a standard ECU? I'd put a consult on it to get the error.

hmm, surprised no-one has done it, I would have thought the R35 guys would have had the issue. Mick thanks for the S15 info but I started with 2.7 ohms (S15 and 350z sized) but it didn't do the trick for the cima passenger bag which is what I need in this case. In the absence of better information I'm doing it the slow and safe way and using a variable resistor to find what the car is happy with.

Yeah I agree, the stagea box will be fine unless you are putting out some serious numbers, it will be by far the easiest option to fit and wire up. And I reckon, if you want a GTR and you need an auto, go for it! It's your damn car, do what you like

I am looking at removing an airbag but don't want to disable the whole system, so I need to know what resistance to add to trick the airbag computer. The workshop manual and most of the internet say that if I use a multimeter to measure the airbag's resistance it will blow up in my face from the multimeter voltage. I do note my multimeter has a 9V battery so maybe it is close enough to 12v to do it.... This guy did it anyway, but I'm not convinced they removed the shorting bar because it reads 0 across the board. This guy removes the shorting bar, measures it, and doesn't die. Has anyone done this safely?

The part you linked to is for 2WD models only, I recently got a pair of nissan bearings through just jap for my 32 GTR and they were about twice that price. Pretty sure there is no aftermarket option for GTR.

funnily enough, I just finished cleaning out the boot lock on my 32 since the key wasn't working most of the time. Once the barrel was out it was clearly hard to turn with the key. Basically I cleaned the barrel thoroughly with brake cleaner, turning the key to work the tumblers around. Once it dried out I lubed it with some graphite powder, it works perfectly now. I'm not clear on what you mean by mechanical part, but if it includes the lock barrel give that a go. For the rest of the components I just cleaned them out with brake cleaner and then used lithium grease on the moving parts, although I'm sure regular grease would have been fine. Do you have a pic of where exactly you think the problem is? BTW I wouldn't discount that the second hard part is also just dirty...it's the same age afterall...

There are a heap of timing belt threads in the DIY section, or did you mean head reassembly? http://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/57-tutorials-diy-faq/